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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone have a known good part number for rebuilding the door hinges? Ones where the pin was not worn through the bushing so using the stock hole sizes once the pin and bushings are driven out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I plan to make a how-to thread for this once I get it figured out.
 

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I wonder if the kits they make for Toyota truck of the same period would work? I don't think I've ever seen a Mk2 with a sagging door before though
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mine were pretty worn and I had the door off anyways. I have found lots of listings for Toyota pickup/Hilux/4Runner of the same era so that will be my backup plan. Even a set of the right flanged bushings and a shoulder bolt would work.
 

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If you can get the measurements and as long as its not some crazy decimal mm, you can buy powdered bronze bushings in a range of standard sizes. Some of your better old-fashioned hardware stores have them. It would be the pin diameter that's the most critical as the hole in the bracket could be drilled for a larger outer diameter (figuring in the correct size for interference fit). I also remember reading about someone making hinge pin sleeves from brass tubing available at hobby stores but I can't recall what kind of car they were restoring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Yeah I have all the measurements and could use standard flanged bushings and ream the hinge body holes out for them. Plus use a shoulder bolt. But it will be more $$ and I'm hoping there is a kit out there that will work already or get a kit made so it will be easy for people to follow the write up.
 

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I used Dorman 38473 for 4Runner and Tacoma. My bushings were frozen to the pin and turning in the hinge. The hole in the hinge has to be opened up since the bushings are larger OD than the original, but that is good since the holes were worn anyway. The kit comes with pins that have a nylock nut that when on the bottom you hardly notice.

The lower hinge has been done the upper is original
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Good to know. Was the length of the new pin correct with this kit?
 

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The pin is perfect size. I measured the bushing OD and chose a drill size that I thought would give a press fit into the hinge. Turns out I was off and had to ream the hinge a little to press in the bushing. Be careful pressing to not collapse the hinge. Do one bushing at a time and support the underside as you press. Once pressed in the bushing ID shrunk a little and gave a snug fit on the pin with no play. The replacement pin has serrations under the head which press into the bracket like the originals to prevent rotation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Ok cool that's a good option then. The stock pin is 50mm long and 8mm OD. Bushings are 10mm OD and 7mm total length with a 1mm thick flange which is around 16mm diameter.

Found the kit specs, pin looks a little long at 60mm but I bet it is total length not length under the head to under the nut. 8mm diameter so that's good, and the bushing length looks ok. Bushing OD is 0.431 inches so around 11mm, a 27/64 drill will get you 0.422 so that's pretty close could just ream a bit with a file from there.
 

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Yes 27/64 is close without going over. Then a reamer to open it up a little. Pin length listed is total length and allows room for nylock nut. I was pleased with the results I had.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Okay,

Dorman 38473 fits perfectly. Here is a guide:

-Grind the top off one of the factory pins and hammer it out with a punch. Then using a 10mm diameter bolt or punch, drive out the old bushings (the flange will just snap off they are brittle)

-Clean up the old hinges, I bead blasted them
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-Drill out the bushing holes from 10mm to 11mm, a 27/64 with a bit of reaming using a file works great. Chamfer the hole edge to make inserting the bushing easier

-Carefully hammer in the new bushings until flush, make sure the pin lines up to fit all the way through. It will be tight that is ok

-Now is the best time to paint the hinges. After the paint dries use some thinner to clean it off the face and ID of the bushings

-Insert the pins from the top down to reassemble. See picture above for reference to get everything correctly aligned (passenger side hinges would be a mirror image of the drivers side pictured) some hammering is required to get the head flush

-install nuts and tighten until hinge is moderately easy to turn, you don't want it binding much but also don't want it loose
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-Reinstall and align door, the bushings are self lubricating
 
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