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My windows are good up and down....but anywhere in the middle they shake like hell when going down the road....and, their are grooves on the outside of the windows-three to four inches wide, up and down, near the back of the window.....what parts do I need to replace when I replace with new glass?
 

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I think this writeup on window adjusting and rattles would be great in the FAQ section.

The TSRM link to door / window hardware is here:
http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK2/manual.aspx?S=BO&P=3

I'd also like to see more photos and closeups and a detailed write up on how to remove the inside door skin without breaking any clips or loosening the wrong thing.
 

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While we are on the subject of windows, how do fix the window from rattling like crazy when I roll it down? Is it as simple as removing all the door trim and tightening the bolts or does it mean that the motor is on it's way out?
There is a black roller near the top of the door near where the rear view mirror is. Try lubricating that. I used MT90 tranny fluid on my passenger side. It may last forever, but it smells like crap. On the driver's side, I got some spray lithium grease. $5 a can at Kragen. That's the preferred lube it seems for window parts. Also squirt some down the vertical window track. Have some paper towels and good glass cleaner. It's a bear to get off the glass, and it's almost impossible not to.

The door panels come off easy enough if you know where the 4 large screws are. Two obvious ones in the door handle covered by plugs, One inside the housing for the courtesy light, and one tucked inside the flip out cover under the lower padded door handle, just on the front end.
 

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Weird, both my windows seal perfectly but anytime I roll the windows down, they rattle and squeek like crazy.
What is probably out of adjustment are the two fuzzy felt like pads that contact the window. They are easily accessible when the door panel is off and easy and intuitive to adjust. You want to loosen the bolt and snug the pad up against the glass so there is no gap remaining between the glass and the outside rubber window belt molding. The area of biggest gap is probably with the window rolled halfway down. If your windows are adjusted fine otherwise, this adjustment will tighten them up and stop most or all of the rattles and should not throw anything else out of alignment.




Don't forget to lube the black roller near the front of the door. That is what causes the squeaking and chattering, most likely. (the photo shows the approximate location). You will see it when you roll the window up and down. It's near the rear view mirror mount, about 4 inches inside the door shell. Also, don't forget to get some lithium grease, the spray stuff is great. I'm not sure if lithium is the best lubricant for the roller, but it is for the tracks and the internal door latching hardware. Whatever you use to lubricate the roller, give it the smell test. Some lubricants have a strong odor, and you don't want to close up your door panels and constantly smell what you put inside. I learned the hard way on that one for the passenger door, which I did first. Tranny lube may be slippery but it smells really bad. By the time I noticed, it was way too late.
 

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Residual rattle

I think it's time to open this thread up again. Marbleheads writeup was excellent except there were no pictures and while it sounds great when you are reading it, it can be hard to correlate his steps with the exact adjustment places on the door. Maybe it's my low IQ. Hand-Eye coordination = good. Text - understanding ability = FAIL.

On my car there is some play where the equalizer arm meets the glass guide (page BO-8 of online TSRM, bottom diagram). This is after snugging up as tight as possible the two upper felt supports (trim supports) at the top of the window. It's enough to make a rattle noise when the window is not all the way up. It's so hard to see inside the door but there must be some adjustment to snug up the lower attachment point of the equalizer arm to the glass guide.




Then there are the annoying little clicks in the linkage of the door lock assembly (residual rattle #2). There is a little rod coming from the top of the door lock solenoid that doesn't make complete contact at the top of the rod where it meets the door lock assembly. I don't think this little rod is supposed to move up and down to the point that it can make noise. The door acts like a drum, so this little click is suprisingly loud.

Pages BO-3, 4, 8, 9 of the TSRM (referenced in previous post) seem to have the best diagrams and writeups.

A buddy of mine in Texas said once there was an easy cure for rattles, the volume knob the radio. I wish I were that easily satisfied! Then again, you fix a big rattle, then there is a small one that begins to nag you. One that you never noticed before. My thought is that there is almost always some type of tightening, pad, shim or something that will stop a rattle, if you can get to it.

If someone has had some good luck lately and has fresh insight and / or photos, please post.
 

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i get that squeak that just screams while im rolling it down mostly on drivers side. its horrible, if fact i feel bad for the people at the drivethrough when i go to order...lol, im deffinitely gonna play with some grease and the snug bolts, my windows flapping around is such a ugly sound.
 

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Does this help?

are you guys taking the mirrors off while you are doing this. when i took my mirror off the two bolts that hold the triangle mount/ track mount were way loose. when I tightened them it made a world of difference.
 

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I just got my passenger side one adjusted out yesterday, as my car had been broken into while parked in our mall parking lot on a 10 degree evening (cold drive home). I ended up pulling the felt guides all the way back and put the black stoppers all the way to their highest point and that got this window working and sealing well. It was also adjusted towards the back side of the car so it covers more of that weather stripping by the b-pillar (I think it's the b-pillar... maybe it's a... forgive me) but there's only a sixteenth of an inch of weather stripping back there the glass isn't touching and it's well sealed. Maybe that will help you out with the sealing problem, but I doubt it will with the rattle. One last thing, I adjusted the screw that torques the top of the window towards the roof all the way out so that it brings the window in as tight as possible(the glass shop that installed my window had it all jacked up).
 

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I just took off both my door panels to adjust my windows and I noticed on the inside of my passenger door it is black(but red on the outside) but my driver's door is red like the SDR color on the outside. Is anyone's else door like this or was mine maybe replaced? Also what is the plastic bag for that's between the door and the door panel?
 

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I just took off both my door panels to adjust my windows and I noticed on the inside of my passenger door it is black(but red on the outside) but my driver's door is red like the SDR color on the outside. Is anyone's else door like this or was mine maybe replaced? Also what is the plastic bag for that's between the door and the door panel?
Yes it was replaced and repainted, and the plastic is like a vapor barrier/sound insulation kind of stuff.
 

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Yes it was replaced and repainted, and the plastic is like a vapor barrier/sound insulation kind of stuff.
What's vapor barrier? Is it OK if I leave it off when I put my door panels back on? Has anyone bought a new door from Toyota or aftermarket before? Do they come black colored and you just paint them to a color you want? Mines look a little different in the inside of the door compared to my drivers side. Or maybe the last owner just got a door off a black car?
 

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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapor_barrier its there as an insulation for sound temperature and moisture.
I think new body panels come with just a base layer. The doors shouldn't be too different from each other. Whats different?
 

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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapor_barrier its there as an insulation for sound temperature and moisture.
I think new body panels come with just a base layer. The doors shouldn't be too different from each other. Whats different?
Inside the door is different, I think they call this section the "skeleton" part of the door. The "skeleton" metal part of my drivers door is smooth and clean. The surface of the metal on the passenger door looks black and dirty. Maybe its from stuff getting into my missing keyhole?

Has anyone put their door panels back on without the plastic insulator and not ran into any problems?
 

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ive never put that crap back on, for one, why?. two. its cheaper not too. but if its a customer car or something i make every attepmt to pull it down out of the way then glue it back up. its possibly the most meaningless car part i can think of. and hey you can look at it as weight savings if you dump 'em...lol
 

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Your Close to right...

Phil,

I have the glass out of two doors at this moment and was just thinking about the rattle too (before it happens).

I suspect it's the two felt 'squares' at the top of the inside door. After getting the glass out, one was worn down to the metal basically, but you can't see this with the glass in place with the trim and all.

It's like 1/10 of an inch of 'intact' felt 'height'. So I'm thinking it pushes the glass up against the (inside edge) exterior top trim, and the rubber part will also stretch over time.

Ken
I have had to replace the windows on both sides of my Supra. You are right about the Squares being the key. The rattle can be from one of 3 things. The squares are the adjusters both in and out on the windows, not front to back. These are there to create the firm fit on the back rubber trim of the pillars behind the door. Don't adjust them too far inward or you can actually mess up the rubber if its original. New rubber will adjust but not always well. The 2nd thing that can cause the rattle is the brace bolts on the guide rails or tracks for the window itself. They natoreously loosen after 20+ yrs or so. By some cheep lock washers to put on them and they will snug up amazingly well. 3rd and biggest problem is when the front to back is off on the guide tracks. This can only be adjusted by disconnecting the motor from the support frame and straightening out the window. Make sure you have the window all the way down and a block of wood or something sturdy and flat to support the window under the window when you do this or you will throw your alignment of the motor off and your window wont role all the way down or possible all the way up. I have stopped the rattles in my car with these steps, but sadly have rescently had them start again. The squares are just too worn out and the door closing has loosened them right back up. I am going to try some lock washers with those too to see if it works. I will say this too. If you get some thin carpet or thick felt and spray down the square surface and the back of the felt you can glue life back into those squares and the window will role up and down a lot smoother. Hope any of this helps
 

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easier fix

just use 1 sided sticky foam and put on where foam pads are worn off to push window in more much easier......mine seals better and has no rattle!
 

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Not sure if this is the right place for this question, but my door windows seem to have a lot of play within the doors (side to side). They rattle and is would seem that I need to replace the door glass stabilizers. For those that have taken their door panels off, are there 2 or 4 of these glass stabilizers in each door?
 

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I am having window issues. Just trying to get my recently purchased Supra on the road and the drivers door will not seal. I have tried every combination with the adjustable bolts and it never seals. It always sits on the outside of the door seal, not the thick inner part where it is supposed to. If I raise the window any higher it catches on the outside and is propped open 1 cm outwards. :32:
 

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~I vote This is Stickied!~

Toybota He stated your problem.. Did you read it all?
 
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