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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Plugs look OK after cleaning. Burn marks are normal combustion, nothing to worry about. One thing I don't like about Bosch plugs is centre electrode can fall out, causing engine damage. More likely on turbo engines during tuning and getting some knock. I prefer to stay away from them if possible.

What's import-duties when shipped from U.S.? Is it percentage of total declared value or flat-fee?
Well I hadn't heard that one, you'd think a company as experienced as Bosch could figure out how to make that not happen! Duly noted as and when I get a turbo going.

Import duties are a percentage. It wouldn't be huge (20% or so) but this usually has the effect of delaying the shipment. And with global shipping being completely screwed at the moment... I dunno if Toyota's logistics would be better (you'd hope so, given Toyota's reputation!).

I'd be more concerned about fakes, though between an OEM and a performance part, I'd hope most fakers would choose the latter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
You could use a walbro 255. The kit for most older Toyotas is the same.
I could, but you said yourself, noisier and less reliable. What is the reliability like for the Walbros?
 

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Not as good as a denso pump but a fair bit better than a lot of other brands. If you aren't pushing it for flow rate (5M certainly won't) then it'll probably outlast the car.
 

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Watch out for fakes of Walbro 255 and Bosch 044 due to their popularity. These are both +400bhp pumps, so maybe select something slightly smaller and less popular to lessen chances of countrefeits.
 

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I would just pick up a good name brand pump from the auto parts stores. Amazon and ebay are littered with fake everything these days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Watch out for fakes of Walbro 255 and Bosch 044 due to their popularity. These are both +400bhp pumps, so maybe select something slightly smaller and less popular to lessen chances of countrefeits.
Are they all the same size? If I turbocharge Dragon, I'm aiming for <250HP, what would you recommend?
I would just pick up a good name brand pump from the auto parts stores. Amazon and ebay are littered with fake everything these days.
Amen to that conclusion, would a generic pump fit in the same bracket, or am I going to have to get the Dremel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I really like Aeromotive pumps; higher quality than OEM pumps. Used by many racers. Check out their line of Stealth-340 pumps.

Can pick up from many vendors:
RossSport
Amazon.co.uk
Okay, this is confusing me. The Aeromotive pumps you're recommending are 340LPH. The Walbro pump is 255LPH and you're saying that's already overkill, and the Bosch is 300LPH and that needs modification of the fuel system (removal of a restrictor) otherwise it'll damage the pump. I can 'check out' any pump you suggest but I have no idea if it'll work, or even fit - none of the pumps in that range are for the Supra and I don't know which, if any, would mount on the same bracket.

All I want is a pump that'll fit the OEM bracket without modification of any of the fuel components, mostly because I don't trust myself to work on fuel systems. Additionally, if it's capable of delivering the extra fuel requirements of a turbocharged 5M, though the latter is quite optional and I'm open to replacing the pump at the time if it's inadequate.

At this point I'm inclined towards buying the OEM pump from Toyota; as expensive as it is, it's guaranteed to fit and work...
 

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Yup, easiest is OEM pump. You're gonna need to upgrade it though if going turbo. So might as well fit larger pump now. Can make custom mounting brackets by brazing thin metal strips together.

My comment about Walbro & Bosch is more geared towards fakes. Actual flow-rate just needs to be more than required. Note that flow-rate is inversely proportional to pressure. So keep in mind pressure and boost you're going to run and make sure pump you select will generate sufficient flow under highest demands.

 

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Easiest jump up in flow rate of pumps is to go to the MkIV turbo Denso pump. That will support mid 400ish rwhp with OEM reliablilty. It's been while, but I remember just needing to use the Mk2 rubber bottom isolator on the pump.
 
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Yup, easiest is OEM pump. You're gonna need to upgrade it though if going turbo. So might as well fit larger pump now. Can make custom mounting brackets by brazing thin metal strips together.

My comment about Walbro & Bosch is more geared towards fakes. Actual flow-rate just needs to be more than required. Note that flow-rate is inversely proportional to pressure. So keep in mind pressure and boost you're going to run and make sure pump you select will generate sufficient flow under highest demands.
Ahhhh, I get it now. That graph is some great information! I was under the impression from my turbo-build thread that the stock pump could handle it; indeed, since I'm only aiming for a few PSI of boost (not wanting to blow up the 5M!) it looks like the stock pump can still flow plenty of fuel.

I have no skill at brazing or welding so I'd prefer not to modify the bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Easiest jump up in flow rate of pumps is to go to the MkIV turbo Denso pump. That will support mid 400ish rwhp with OEM reliablilty. It's been while, but I remember just needing to use the Mk2 rubber bottom isolator on the pump.
Good idea, especially if it's a drop-in fit. I have the rubber bumper from the original still on the pump. Is that going to need any modification of the fuel system to remove restrictors etc.?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Good news folks. I found a working pump in my parts stash - it was in a different box to the others. I tested it by having it bubble through the coolant tank of my other car.

Yesterday, my uncle and I took Dragon to bits. As I'd hoped, the bolts were well exercised and came apart willingly. However, when we started to clean the top of the fuel tank, I dislodged some dirt and revealed a new couple of pinholes in the usual spot behind the rear wheel. Damnit. Fortunately I had kept hold of Dragon's original fuel tank, which had been repaired a few years ago, so we swapped all the components onto this tank and put it back in the car. After priming the fuel system using the check connector, Dragon started on the first crank.

Now looking to get Dragon back on the road for the first time since the pandemic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I don't !"£$%^&*()ing believe it, on Saturday I reassembled Dragon ahead of getting it inspected on Tuesday. Brand new battery, even tested it with a capacity tester, 80% charge as shipped. Tried to start Dragon... just cranked. WTF.

Bridged the check connector - can't hear the fuel pump. You have gotta be kidding me!!!
 

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Rob check EFI fuse under the hood...and power circuit breaker in foot well
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Rob check EFI fuse under the hood...and per circuit breaker in foot well
I checked and there was spark (ignition testers blinking). Didn't have time on Saturday to do much by way of diagnostics, it was getting dark. Planning to go over the car on Tuesday morning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
There's battery voltage at the pump connector. The pump itself shows a resistance of 0.1-0.4 megaohms, so it looks like the second pump has failed. Cannot believe how quickly that thing died. And now, I can only get OEM pumps from Japan; previously I could get from Europe with a shorter lead time.

Suffice to say, I don't think I'm getting Dragon running today.
 
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