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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

Mine has always leaked. Have had it off and on a number of times over the years, but never achieved a perfect seal.

It seems like when I tighten the bolts most of the sealant squeezes out the sides.

Should I install and tighten while the silicon is fresh and gooey, or wait 15 mins until it is more gummy?

Should I run the line of sealant inside or outside the bolt holes?

Any tricks?
 

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Andy,

Use Toyota FIPG...3mm bead around the inside of the bolt holes...never had a problem. Make sure you're using the 85 pan when doing this
 

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A second for FIPG, and if you're feeling froggy you can do more than 3mm bead, however be forewarned... this stuff is a BITCH to remove... consider that. I like to use power tools for its' removal (a wire wheel on a die grinder...).

I have an 88 7M-GTE, WITH a Crank Scraper.. what's that mean to you? Nothing really other than...

a) the mating surface between pan and block is now uneven, due to crank scaper thickness
b) I have NO OIL PAN GASKET
c) I used 2 3mm beads (inside and outside/around holes) and about a 1/4" bead all the way 'round my oil pan
d) Many racing events, and some amazing 40,000+ miles later no leaks.

Also if you ever have a leaky tranny, use the ORANGE FIPG... Black is only for oil/water. For Differentia/Transmission use the ORANGE.. the black will work in a pinch, but it will let gear oil seep out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies.

Mark, why would the 85 oil pan seal better? I don't have an 85 pan, but could look into getting one from you if it will make a difference.
 

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this.



Dense rubber, super adhesive, flexible. good to 500F Used by GM, Ford, chrysler and Mercedes on the assembly line.

I have it in my car on every single gasket that holds a fluid. on the ooil pan, I have it on both sides of the crank scraper that is sandwiched between the oilpan and the block. I have zero leaks in the whole motor.
 

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i use a 1 1/2 off sillicone goop lol
i put the silli on the pan then lay down then gasket and let it dry nice and even.
Then i put the rest on the gasket and attach it to the block and it never leaks
20,000 plus miles :)
 

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I used the super blue silicone from oreilly whenever I got my 6m, I let it set a few minutes before I put it on. I put the silocone on both sides of the gasket and haven't noticed any leaks 5,000 miles later.
 

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permatex ultra black or ultra copper, ive used both on oil pans. outline the pan, around the bolt holes as well. let it sit for at least 15mins, maybe more depending on temperature, until its tacky. touch it to make sure its tacky, and by tacky i mean that when you touch it it feels sticky but you get none on your hand. next install the pan on the car and slowly tighten the pan up to the block. i let some silicone squeeze out the sides and let it sit for a few before i torque the bolts. i use this method on the 84 oil pan on my mk2, the diff cover on my mk2 (i dont use the gasket), the diff covers on the truck, and the trans pan on my truck. i get ZERO leaks.
 

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The 85 oil pan is deeper than the old pans, due to an increased capacity oil pump. You can use an 85 oil pan, but only if you use the 85 and up oil pump. Although, I seem to remember an old post about having to grind something in the block for clearance, so it may not be an ideal swap unless the engine is out and being rebuilt.

The 85 oil pans did NOT use a gasket, just FIPG/silicone from the factory. The earlier pans used a gasket. Not using a gasket with an earlier oil pan may cause the pickup strainer to hit the bottom of the pan, and not allow the pan to fully seal.

Also, if you use a newer pan with the older oil pump, the pickup won't reach completely to the bottom. This can result in oil starvation = BAD.

I once used a cork gasket on my 83, and used the spray-on tack-a-gasket to secure it to the pan. Then I smeared silicone on the exposed cork surface to mate with the block. I let it get tacky, then fitted the oil pan. I never had any leaks. Hope this helps! :)
 

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would it be bad to use a gasket on an 85 with silicone?
 

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this.



Dense rubber, super adhesive, flexible. good to 500F Used by GM, Ford, chrysler and Mercedes on the assembly line.

I have it in my car on every single gasket that holds a fluid. on the ooil pan, I have it on both sides of the crank scraper that is sandwiched between the oilpan and the block. I have zero leaks in the whole motor.
What about the Cam Position Sensor on your 7M-GTE??
 

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^^He has no turbo; it's a 7MGE with cams/valve springs/upgrades. ;)

Dannyr: The oil pick-up screen will be the gasket thickness away from the bottom of the pan, so there could be oil starvation issues, espescially during hard/long corners. However, it's usually recommended to run a quart of oil over when the dipstick reads "full" anyways.
 

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^^He has no turbo; it's a 7MGE with cams/valve springs/upgrades. ;)

Dannyr: The oil pick-up screen will be the gasket thickness away from the bottom of the pan, so there could be oil starvation issues, espescially during hard/long corners. However, it's usually recommended to run a quart of oil over when the dipstick reads "full" anyways.
My bad, I misread his Sig. Thought it said 7M-GTE, oops.:eekfacepalm:

I usually run about 1/2 to 1 full quart of oil OVER full. Never had a problem blowing out oil seals yet, just turbo seals... :D and that's from running 18psi ...
 

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hmm. ive never heard of running a quart over... i always thought i would blow something from too much oil pressure or something. idk enough about engine internals yet. im learning though.

i might have to start doing that...
 

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Oops...
 

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would it be bad to use a gasket on an 85 with silicone?
Yeah, there is no crimp area on the 85 pan to compress the gasket. If you look at the earlier pans compared to the later one the bead is inverted.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Oh, so to clarify, the mating surface on the 85 pan is flat (or flatter) than the rippled surface on the earlier pans. THAT might explain why it is difficult to get a good silicone seal on my mine.

Thanks guys.
 

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THe 85 pan has an inverted bead around the perimeter to allow a build up of sealer. The earlier pans have a bead that protrudes from the surface to allow the pan to "bite" into the gasket.
 
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