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Discussion Starter #1
Title pretty much sums it up.

I've decided the hatch has to come off the car to repair the paint.

The hose for the washer is pretty evident, but where are the connectors for the wiring harness? There's nothing in the TSM about removing the hatch, and the wiring manual shows two connectors "up there", but where are they?

Are they in the framing for the hatch, or under the headliner?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you both very much, especially the pix, Tex!

Just got the rear carpeting pulled out, and now I'm taking all the easy to remove stuff out of the back, like the seats and quarter covers/rear door panels.
 

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Rear seats were probably the hardest single thing to remove from my car when I took everything off. I have no plans to reuse them and I couldn't get the clip to unhook so I ended up bending and cutting a bunch of stuff to free them.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The seat backs, or the bottom cushion?

I'm planning on a 'back seat delete' and mounting the battery back there. I'll make some plywood/mdf "shelves" and have the upholstery place carpet it for me.
 

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bottom cushion was the devil. I was gonna put my battery in the trunk but same idea. Make sure you go with plastic for the tray, battery trays now are special plastics which resist the acid in batteries and you don't get the problem seen in the front of a lot of these cars where the battery leaks and causes corrosion.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Oh, yeah! I've done this before.....plastic everything except the wire!

And it will be vented overboard even though it's an AGM battery. I'll just get a kit from Summit or piece it out. I'm planning on getting a big terminal post/block to run the battery hot lead to, mount it somewhat close to where the battery was, and just connect all the stuff that went to the top post to the new terminal post/block.

The seat backs popped right out, and the bottom cushion lifted up enough to get the seat belts through, but I still have to figure out how the front lower edge of the cushion is held down so I can pop it out.
 

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The seat backs popped right out, and the bottom cushion lifted up enough to get the seat belts through, but I still have to figure out how the front lower edge of the cushion is held down so I can pop it out.
You know, I'm always embarrassed by this step. I read about other people who gut and totally rebuild our cars and I have trouble removing a seat bottom. I end up screaming, crying, lying in a pool of sweat after an hour of failure!!!

So, here are the pictures of the seat bottom clip.
Rear Seat Bottom Clip 1.jpg
The passenger side clip. Pull it forward and up (IIRC)

Rear Seat Bottom Clip 2.jpg
You can see it's attached to the large wire frame and when you pull it forward and up it levers the wire which in turn pulls the V-shaped metal spring up and out of...

Rear Seat Bottom Clip Hole 1.jpg
The oval hole in the frame.
Give a tug on the cushion while you've got the clip pulled up. It doesn't come out with a real pleasing click, but the spring will come out of the hole.

Rear Seat Bottom Clip Hole 2.jpg

Dale
 

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Those the little black clips that stick out a bit at the bottom edge?
Yes. I don't know why you'd have to pull the seats to remove the hatch. I'd just pull the C-pillar trim in at the top and back lip around the hatch and the headliner should drop down enough to get at the bolts and connector.

Personally I did what you're saying with the rear seats and battery and went away from it. Just too many holes you have to cut in the car and it was heavier than the rear seats,
 

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Discussion Starter #14
They look like you're supposed to pull on the "tab" to release them, but holy smokes, it takes a lot of force.

I'm afraid I'll break something.

Everything I've found with Google just says to give it a mighty yank, and it will come loose......NOT!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes. I don't know why you'd have to pull the seats to remove the hatch. I'd just pull the C-pillar trim in at the top and back lip around the hatch and the headliner should drop down enough to get at the bolts and connector.

Personally I did what you're saying with the rear seats and battery and went away from it. Just too many holes you have to cut in the car and it was heavier than the rear seats,
It's not so much for the hatch removal as it is for the carpet replacement. I'm waiting for my stepson the weightlifter to come over here so we can get the hatch off. Since it'll take him a day or so to get over here, I thought I'd start work on other things that need doing.

Moving the battery is to get that 45 pound lead-acid lump out of the engine compartment where it's way out front and up high, to inside the wheelbase, and down low on the floor. I've done this before on several cars, and while the improvement in handling is minor, I could always notice it.

I'll make a final decision after I get the carpet out of the car so I can see how to neatly run the cable. Yes, I'm hesitant to 'hack a hole' in the firewall to pass the cable through. I might use a weather tight cable bushing to pass the cable through, but that's TBD for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
YAY DALE!!

That's EXACTLY the picture I was looking for.

Looks like if I push a flat-blade screw driver or thin trim tool just under the clip, it will 'close' enough to pop it out.

Let me go try after I vacuum the upstairs. Got the grandson coming over and I have some chores to do for his weekend stay....
 

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Hi Jim,

My forum access to your thread is all messed up. I can't see any page 2 items anymore.
I went back to the car and found that the rear seat removal works easily by pulling the seat latch straight forward to the front of the car. It moves about 3/8"-1/2" and then pull the latch straight up. The seat then comes out quite easily.

Hopefully this will post. Edit: And it does, and now I can see page 2. Yea!

Dale
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Pull the "tab" part of the clip?

My idea of pushing the clip in under the tab with a trim tool has only resulted in my hands getting bruised.

I'll go try your method.....
 

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