[spud3861]

Hi all

Is the cold start injector supposed to run only while cranking the motor, or continue for a minute or so after the motor is started?

According to the wiring diagram I have, the injector only received voltage through ST1 (starter wire). I tested voltage at the cold start time switch immediately after starting the motor and the voltage is 0V. I presume from this that the cold start injector was not running either. Hmmm

Car is not cold starting properly, so is this the problem?

Cheers
Andy S

 

[sloopercat]

http://www.autoshop101.com/

Look here.

 

[SupraWes]

Yeah check the switch in the themostat housing, the one closest to the head. I have seen those go bad.

 

[Suprabee]

I had a defective cold start switch several year ago.
The car would eventually start after turning it over and over. It was especially difficult to start on cold mornings. I live in CA and the mornings were I live may get down to 30F in the winter. I can't imagine what it must be like in colder climates on the starter motor.
Anyway, I took a gamble and bought a new one from Toyota for around $100.00. It did the trick and have nver had a problem since. Even if I happen to be in the Sierras during the winter.

If you can't spill the change for a new one, just look and ask around this forum. There are always parts for sale. In fact, I've built up a small persoanl parts inventory of used items like the cold start switch by buying them cheap from "parts people" I picked up an extra used one for only $10.
Here is the Toyota Part # if your going new: 89462-30011
Good luck,

Suprabee

 

[Deanfun]

perhaps this is why my 82 takes 2-3 minutes of solid cranking before it'll actually start and stay alive.

 

[MkIISuperSupra]

Thanks for the replies everyone. We took a tour of autoshop 101 last night. Very good site. I can see that I will be spending a lot of time there.

Actually, as it turns out, the ECU is fried for the ISC circuit. The mircro processor for the ISC valve signals has a nice big hole burned into it. Never, and I repeat, Never get water into your ISC valve. Everyone should take a good look at the connector on the valve body and check it for cracks before washing an engine.....If you have a cracked one, you won't like the results........trust me on this. We also found that sticky ISC valves can be repaired quite easily. If your ISC isn't clicking when you turn the engine off and it is just do to age, some di-electric lube can do wonders for restoring it.

Just waiting for a new chip and resistor from Shawn, a few solder joints and hopefully the turbo toad will be good to go again.

Leslie

 

[SupraWes]

Hmm I wonder if something similar happened to my TPS circuit. My car runs exactly the same wether the TPS is plugged in or not. And I never get and check engine lights when its unplugged. It was stumbling really bad after I put the new cylinder head on and I was getting TPS error codes. Then it stopped doing that and it ran fine but I lost 4+ mpg. I'll crack the ECU open on my week off over the holidays. I did hose the TPS and throttle body down pretty heavily with carb cleaner when it was off the car. (Bad Idea) I have tried a spare TPS on the car with no difference and they both test out ok. So if there was still fluid in there maybe I killed the ECU.