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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Use a thick flat head screwdriver and a hammer. Don't be scared to get rough with this just make sure you hit on the outside rim of the plug with the tip parallel with the rim not perpendicular.


























Wedge the throttle open. I think I stuck a screwdriver in the linkage. The little spout facing down from the top is where exhaust gasses come into the intake from the egr valve.


Cut a piece of cardboard so you can stick in into the throttle body in order to catch carbon.


Stick a screwdriver in the hole like this and wiggle it like crazy. You may even need to use a hammer to open a path through in between wiggling.


This is what it should look like after sticking the screwdriver through before wiggling it around.


Carbon will start to fall.


By the end of this process you may have this much or more. It's better to pull out smaller loads than to try to pull out a giant load, like I did, chancing dropping this crud down the intake manifold.


There is a tube that runs down the top of the manifold.
On the 85 manifold there is a 10mm female allen plug on the back side, facing the firewall & adjacent to the EGR valve, but on the 84 there is only an EGR valve.
This is the 84 manifold:


This is the 85 manifold. Notice the stud which the EGR bolts to. It is adjacent to the plug and facing the vavle cover not the firewall.


This is the light you can see once you pierce through the clogged carbon. A straw works well to remove the carbon. You have to repeatedly stick the straw in through the back and then blow the carbon out. Eventually you'll get it all.


Removing the EGR valve requires removing two or three small 10 or 12mm nuts and loosening a rather large flange nut which connects the EGR to a S-bent pipe that bends around the rear of the engine. It's WAY easier
to remove the EGR if you unbolt the back side of the S-bent pipe. To do this you must remove 2 bolts. They're a PITA to get to but it's possible. I had to lay on the engine and put my arms around the exhaust side and through the back of the spark plug valley.

Loosening the Flange nut:


Back behind here and to the left is the picture under this one:


The bolts in the center facing right and the bolts you want to get. I used all my 3/8" extentions with the ratchet over near the EGR to get to these bolts.


My S-bent pipe was very clear of carbon. I didn't need to clean it but getting off the EGR was not happening without pulling it off too.

Once the EGR is off clean out the inside of it. I used a pick to clean it. Take your time so you don't have to take it off again. I made sure all the carbon and gunk was cleaned out of the EGR as best as I could. I also sucked through a vacuum hose to the top port to see if the EGR would work. You can hear it move as you suck and when you release the vacuum it 'pops' back.




Next I removed the lid of the transducer. There is a filter in there. Mine was very black. There are cotton facial cleaning products that work excellent for a filter replacement. If you can get the 2" circular ones those work great. The square ones work just as good. After you're done cleaning the transducer stuff 2 or 3 of them in there and pop the lid back on. I stuck the pick in every hole possible. If you shake the transducer it seems to loosen carbon up and then if you stick the pick into the holes you can further break up the carbon. Repeat this process until carbon doesn't come out any more when you shake it. Stick the pick up the bottom port to get out what you can too. It was full of water and gunk for me.










The bottom port:


These tubes connect the EGR and Transducer. Clean them out


Gently start the plug back into place with a hammer. GENTLY!


Use a socket that matches the diameter of the plug to finish tapping the plug into place. You want about 1mm of the sidewall to show above the plug.
 

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Wow, lots of stuff in there! Always wondered what that plug was for, but didn't think it had anything to do with the EGR.

By the way, 6MGE's never had an EGR system, so not applicable (unless a 5M manifold has been swapped on).
 

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1. Your threads are always informative and entertaining! Keep it up! I like how you doggedly pursue a problem,try to get to the bottom of it, and then document. The old hands on the site may find it to be old knowledge, but these are common maintenance problems for those of us less experienced. That looks like the whole IM would have to be pulled to get it cleaned out.

2. I spent the weekend fixing some driveability issues on a minty Canadian-origin, 85 hardtop blackpra I just purchased, and spent a good while trolling older posts on tps, etc., and read your recent thread popped up.

Mine turned out to be a poorly installed timing belt (by the dealer somewhere). Funny how dead spots and hesitation in the powerband are usually attributed to fuel supply and filter, but this one was timing and dizzy 100%. The 1000 rpm idle went down to 750 once the tps was adjusted. Last link missing. I mention this, because egr often came up as a culprit for poor running engines. I wonder what the symptoms of a clogged egr are on a 5mge?

3. On the pics: I was fooling around with microsoft office picture manager the other day (in office tools, right above word and the rest of the suite), and it gives good options for resizing file and pic sizes in jpeg. Also cropping.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Subscribed. :D
:thumbsup:
Wow, lots of stuff in there! Always wondered what that plug was for, but didn't think it had anything to do with the EGR.

By the way, 6MGE's never had an EGR system, so not applicable (unless a 5M manifold has been swapped on).
Good thinking. I forgot about that.
:thumbsup:
If you use photobucket maybe use the thumbnail mode so you can click on the picture if you want a larger picture.
I don't know about this function yet. I'll look into it.

1. Your threads are always informative and entertaining! Keep it up! I like how you doggedly pursue a problem,try to get to the bottom of it, and then document. The old hands on the site may find it to be old knowledge, but these are common maintenance problems for those of us less experienced. That looks like the whole IM would have to be pulled to get it cleaned out.

2. I spent the weekend fixing some driveability issues on a minty Canadian-origin, 85 hardtop blackpra I just purchased, and spent a good while trolling older posts on tps, etc., and read your recent thread popped up.

Mine turned out to be a poorly installed timing belt (by the dealer somewhere). Funny how dead spots and hesitation in the powerband are usually attributed to fuel supply and filter, but this one was timing and dizzy 100%. The 1000 rpm idle went down to 750 once the tps was adjusted. Last link missing. I mention this, because egr often came up as a culprit for poor running engines. I wonder what the symptoms of a clogged egr are on a 5mge?

3. On the pics: I was fooling around with microsoft office picture manager the other day (in office tools, right above word and the rest of the suite), and it gives good options for resizing file and pic sizes in jpeg. Also cropping.
Thank you. I try to give back to this amazing site where I myself have learned everything about my Celica-Supra.

It's totally possible to clean out the system without removing the intake manifold. It's kind of a pita getting the exhaust pipe-to-egr off but that's the hardest part.


I think I'm going to have to give a little bio about the EGR system and how drivability issues can arise from malfunction. I'm FINALLY working on this write up so please be patient.
 

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This is the easy part of the system to clean. Pull the manifold and have it cleaned/dipped at a machine shop. Mine was about $40 with the tb and a few other parts.

What do you do to re seat the plug?

Edit, damn that was hella plugged! I'd say this should be a must for everyone.
 

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Are you going to cover cleaning out the s-bend tube to the EGR cooler on the back of the cylinder head? I use a Dollar Store pickup tool (spring) to chase the carbon out of it.
 

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i tried popping that cap thing off a while ago when i was cleaning out my egr but couldnt get it off. i was able to still clean it out though, just took longer. also, if you take the throttle body off, it makes it much easier to clean out the carbon. when i did mine, i used carb cleaner and compressed air to blast out most of the carbon. i hooked up a hose inside the upper intake plenum and ran it to a garbage pail. then i used a small tooth brush to get what ever was left out.

It's totally possible to clean out the system without removing the intake manifold. It's kind of a pita getting the exhaust pipe-to-egr off but that's the hardest part.
its actually easy once you do it. you need a long extension to get the 2 bolts at the back of the head. you need a big monkey wrench to loosen the nut on the egr valve. also, you want to remove or loosen the hook on the back of the motor and remove the fuel pulsation dampner. dont forget to pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the motor over for a while to de-pressure-ise the fuel system so you dont leak fuel everywhere.

nice write up, btw.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
wow thats some serious crud build up. how many miles on it? 127000?
On my 84 these pictures are from like 125,XXX miles.
On my 85, I had about twice as much and there were 175,XXX on that car when I got it.

Updated. Correct me of grammar and or punctuation or mis-info where needed.
Thanks!
 

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WOW and thanks for covering this in such good detail with photos.
 

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You've always got the best write-ups man, awsome job. I had one question though, wouldn't it have been better just to delete the EGR all together??
 

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I had one question though, wouldn't it have been better just to delete the EGR all together??
Probably, if you lived in a state that didn't inspect when they did smog check. California inspects to see if it is there, but not sure that they inspect to see that it works properly. I think if it is stuck in the wrong position, a car will fail smog.
 

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That makes sense. Mine was clogged but I still passed here in Broomfield, CO. And they didn't even check for the EGR.
 
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