5M/6M/7M bore is 83mm, which is pretty much as far as it will go. Some would say it's already bored too far, which is part of the reason for the infamous BHG problem. The 2JZ bore is 86mm, and if you tried boring an M block that far I reckon the cylinders would overlap! So to answer your question, no you can't use 2JZ pistons.
I need your advice................
Ok, I am putting together all the parts I need to do a rebuild/turbo conversion. I need your advice on what all to do with the motor. Here is what I am planning on:
ct-26
mkIII intercooler
ss valves
Gude cams
ARP head/rod bolts
3" exhaust w/ brullen muffler
Down Pipe (one that will fit??)
a/f controller
ignition controller
rrfpr(obviously)
7mge injectors
jacobs ignition
iridium plugs
gapless chromoly rings
BOV
porting everything
polishing crank
balancing the rotating assy.
nitrous express intercooler sprayer
Ok, I have a few questions: I want to run NOS, what is the best way to go about this, and will forged pistons be nessicary? If so, can I use 2jz pistons?(can the block take the overbore to accomidate them?) I plan on getting as high as 11-12 psi with this setup, will I need a MHG?? If so, what is required to install one?? Would an F-CON be better than the afc/ic? Are titanium valve springs practical? I would like this engine to have a higher rev limit, the stock redline seems low. After a year or so, I am going to put that greddy MkIII turbo upgrade kit on it, a bigger I/C, and squeeze as much out of it as I can. Am I forgetting anything?? I am also going to do a five-speed conversion. While I have the tranny out of the car, is there anything that can be done to beef it up?? Any other thoughts/ideas??
Thanks for you help,
Christopher
ct-26
mkIII intercooler
ss valves
Gude cams
ARP head/rod bolts
3" exhaust w/ brullen muffler
Down Pipe (one that will fit??)
a/f controller
ignition controller
rrfpr(obviously)
7mge injectors
jacobs ignition
iridium plugs
gapless chromoly rings
BOV
porting everything
polishing crank
balancing the rotating assy.
nitrous express intercooler sprayer
Ok, I have a few questions: I want to run NOS, what is the best way to go about this, and will forged pistons be nessicary? If so, can I use 2jz pistons?(can the block take the overbore to accomidate them?) I plan on getting as high as 11-12 psi with this setup, will I need a MHG?? If so, what is required to install one?? Would an F-CON be better than the afc/ic? Are titanium valve springs practical? I would like this engine to have a higher rev limit, the stock redline seems low. After a year or so, I am going to put that greddy MkIII turbo upgrade kit on it, a bigger I/C, and squeeze as much out of it as I can. Am I forgetting anything?? I am also going to do a five-speed conversion. While I have the tranny out of the car, is there anything that can be done to beef it up?? Any other thoughts/ideas??
Thanks for you help,
Christopher
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
I would dump the Gude cams. I've never heard of someone who had them that liked them. And in so far as your motor build-up, if you wanna run 12 PSI AND nitrous, Forged pistons and a MHG are manditory. You'll be building nothing but an expensive paperweight if ya don't.
MHG's are not hard to install, however, the block has to have a SUPER smooth finish. I forget the exact spec (but I am sure that someone will chime in with it), but I actually had a problem finding a machine shop that could machine the head and block that smooth.
Another recomendation I would make is forged Rods. That much power and stress will turn a stock rod into mush quickly.
The iridium plug, I would change for coppers. While Iridiums are great for dyno runs, they aren't that great on the street.
The last thing I would reccomend is to get an aftermarket intercooler. The stock mk III one is... well, we'll just call it less than optimal and leave it at that...
MHG's are not hard to install, however, the block has to have a SUPER smooth finish. I forget the exact spec (but I am sure that someone will chime in with it), but I actually had a problem finding a machine shop that could machine the head and block that smooth.
Another recomendation I would make is forged Rods. That much power and stress will turn a stock rod into mush quickly.
The iridium plug, I would change for coppers. While Iridiums are great for dyno runs, they aren't that great on the street.
The last thing I would reccomend is to get an aftermarket intercooler. The stock mk III one is... well, we'll just call it less than optimal and leave it at that...
I would highly recommend given your plans for really, really, really high output that you take the money you'd spend on item #s 4, 8, 9, 10, 11 & 12 and invest in a programmable ecu and suitable sized injectors. That way you could tune the beast accurately and with confidence. If it were me, I'd want especially to be able to program fuel enrichment and timing curves for normal around town driving (perhaps a smog setting), plus the various combinations you're likely to use in different racing situations, boost only and probably a few nitrous/boost combinations. Just a reminder that as long as the factory ecu is in there you're working with a fixed fuel and ignition map. AFCs, RRFPRs and the like have limitations to how much they can augment the stock maps plus they are not all that accurate and a relative bitch to tune. When playing with nitrous, mistakes are expensive.
Phil D.
Phil D.
Ok, I can definatly agree with that. Where do I get a programable ecu? What would be "suitale" size injectors? How much power do you think this combination will make? I was thinking close to 300hp.
Thanks again,
Christopher
Thanks again,
Christopher
Oh, and where can I get forged pistons/rods?
Aaron Garney www.rabidchimp.com ? I believe. He can hook you up with all of it.Not sure if they have tuned a 5M with an SDS system yet,but I'm sure he's willing :wink:
SDS
SDS is the cheapest stand alone system the money could but... for 1500 you can get the high end I think it is the 6F model(not sure)...
I have a friends running SDS on their 2.2L turbo engine on the Dodge Omni and it is very reliable and easy to program... you don't have to bring a laptop with you all the time.
I am saving up now for a SDS on my 6MGE and a friend of mine is gonna be running a SDS too in his MK2 with a built 7MGTE
SDS is the cheapest stand alone system the money could but... for 1500 you can get the high end I think it is the 6F model(not sure)...
I have a friends running SDS on their 2.2L turbo engine on the Dodge Omni and it is very reliable and easy to program... you don't have to bring a laptop with you all the time.
I am saving up now for a SDS on my 6MGE and a friend of mine is gonna be running a SDS too in his MK2 with a built 7MGTE
re:
Personally I would leave the Gude cams out of it. I too have heard conflicting stories on it's merit. From all the research I've done cams are the last thing you want to add to a built engine. With all the stuff you want to do, your gonna have a hard enough time tuning everything as is, without a lopey cam hindering your efforts.
SM
P.S. In the for sale section I have a Jacobs ignition for sale, fyi.
Personally I would leave the Gude cams out of it. I too have heard conflicting stories on it's merit. From all the research I've done cams are the last thing you want to add to a built engine. With all the stuff you want to do, your gonna have a hard enough time tuning everything as is, without a lopey cam hindering your efforts.
SM
P.S. In the for sale section I have a Jacobs ignition for sale, fyi.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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