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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)

the stock 7m oil cooling unit is crap IMOP! no one should run their car with the stock unit. let me explane why. The stock cooling system is on a pressure relief valve. what this means is that your motor has to hit x amount of oil pressure before the oil will get to be cooled and the oil thats cooled will not be filterd. not to mention the oil cooler is only like a -3 or -4 line. If you look at the next pic

you can see how this works. you have to use a oil filter relocater to drop a 7m in a mk2 so instead of just adding the kit to the stock system ie where the filter went you should take the oil cooler relief valve of and stick the adapter straight to the block. you will have to take a threaded nut of a 5m or 7mge so you now have something to thread the adapter onto then run -8 lines to you remote oil fillter, then to a new bigger oil cooler and back to the adapter. this way all your oil is filterd and cooled all the time at idel and at full wap. i run my car this way and i have found that i have lower engien temps then most. i have yet to prove its do to the oil cooler but if you think about it where would you want to stick your cooled oil back in the system or into the pan. it just makes sence and you dont have to drill a hole in you oil pan to have a oil cooler return line.
Dave
 

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Yes, the two below average designs of the 7MGTE is the
band-aid oil cooler and the water return line back from the head.

For the oil pressure valve, the idea is higher pressure = higher heat.

I have the Greddy oil re-location kit, and a 180 degree oil
thermostat. Then, when the oil gets hot, it goes to the cooler.
Just have not had any time to install it.

Then there is that fine cooler line that returns from the rear
of the head, right under the exhaust manifold.

Nice to "heat" the water before it goes to the thermostat.
 

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Nice info Dave, this is definately something I'm interested in.
What "bigger oil cooler" did you go with ?
As soon as I read this, I went and checked out the oil cooler on my buddies Sterling 5 ton. Its so big likely wouldnt get the 7M up to operating temperature !! The stock unit is so small I doubt it holds 1/2 litre.
DJ
 

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Good posting Dave. Since I knew that Jim K didn't have an oil bracket on his 7mgte, I don't either but will add oil cooler and filter relocation kit. I figured that since I don't drive much or very long, don't need to worry about oil temp. Meanwhile, if it does get hot then I'm sure that Amsoil synthetic oil can handle the extra heat!
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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onedic said:
actualy the oil cooler i have isnt that big its 12" x 3" x 2" but its a real good one that can flow and cool the oil. i wouldnt go any smaller then what i have. if you look on my yahoo you can see it in pics bov pics 096 and bov pics 100 its in front of my intercooler
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=BMM-70265&view=257#largerimage
i think this is the one i have on my car .
When I had my 7mgte rebuilt 2,500 km ago I fit the permacool oil relocator and big oil cooler kit. Oil cooler's size is: 1-1/2" x 7" x 21" . I also fit the R1 series oil pressure gauge. Now, when the engine is warmed up to normal temp the gauge indicates less than 4 psi at idle. Then at 2.5-3,000 rpm it goes up to 35 psi or so. I checked on the service manual and it states that oil pressure sould be over 4.6 psi at idle. Is this pressure drop due to the very big oil cooler or you think that the R1 gauge is not very accurate. And if the pressure is actually dropped will that cause a problem?
 

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the oil pressure is due to the oil cooler. if you hook it up like onedic, you will lower your pressure. the longer oil path and resistance from the cooler lowers the pressure. i like the stock design that it only opens once x amount of pressure is realized. helps keep the pressure up at idle and lower rpms. i plan on just putting a bigger oil cooler in but hooked up like stock. ill prolly grab a perma cool tranny cooler. should work just fine.
william
 

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are oil/water coolers a good way to go? i don't know how well they work, but it seems like a lot of OEMs use them (the mk4 supra has one, i think). no drop in oil pressure, and it could make an oil cooler install really elegant too, just run a few coolant lines, and there's no big heat exchanger to fit up front, and to thermostat either. i would assume that it doesn't affect warm up as badly as an oil/air cooler with no thermostat/pressure valve, either.

i think turbo fords (the 2.3l motor) had oil/water coolers with a right angle adapter for the filter-- would that be enough to make the filter more accessible?

also, if volvo filters are the same diameter/thread, they had spin on adapters with a built-in thermostat to go to a remote oil cooler. might be a good option if you arent getting a relocation kit

shiva
 

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Oil to water coolers are MUCH more thermally efficient than oil to air. I believe the ratio is something like 10 times more efficient, but don't quote me on that one.

I got the biggest "transmission" oil cooler I could get from Checker Auto (something like $80), mounted it to the front of my radiator, then I ran the lines from the filter to the cooler, then out the cooler and into the tranny cooler fittings at the bottom of the radiator, and the return oil is piped into the top of the exhaust side of the head. I have a large oil to air cooler (forced air pulled across it) and also oil to water. If for some reason the oil is overcooled (ie: winter months), the water in the radiator will warm it back up to operating temp. If the air cooling is not sufficient (ie: Summer in Phoenix), the radiator water will help cool it much more.

I kept the pressure valve on the oil filter adapter because if for some reason the oil pressure gets too low, getting oil to the engine is MUCH more important than cooling the oil and helps maintain pressure throughout the entire oiling system, as the turbo and piston oiling jets need lots of volume to maintain proper oil flow. 8)

Just my 2 cents. :wink:
 
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