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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, new here. Just got a '85 P-type and had the engine out to do some work. Put it back in and I've got spark but no fuel. The rail is pressurized but seems like the injectors arent firing. I've cleaned them with an electronic fuel injector cleaner and verified they do work. The car had this issue when I got it and would run on ether. Any thoughts? Already checked EFI main relay 1 (I think it's for the fuel pump right?), I guess theres another EFI main relay somewhere on the car according to the wiring diagram, where would that be and what does it do? Any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks guys/gals.
 

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Have you tried seeing if the wires to the injectors pulse with a node light?

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Discussion Starter #4
I did do what the Haynes manual recommended which was put a screwdriver up to one while cranking and listening for the injector firing, don't know if that's really a good way to do it. The node light seems a lot more reliable.
 

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This sounds more like the ECU isn't telling them to fire, unless you broke a wire to the injector resistor pack or something and none of them have are getting a signal. Do you have a check engine light? Stuff like this generally gives a code.

AFM plugged in well?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah AFM is plugged in and I do have a CEL, I'll try to pull the code and see what's up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, so injectors are definitely not getting signal to fire, tried the pulse light and got nothing. I tried to pull codes by jumping the service plug and the Check Engine light just stayed solid, didnt blink or anything. Not sure if I did that wrong? I do know that whenever I opened the AFM flapper by hand the fuel pump would kick on and pressurize the rail. The RPM gauge also seems to be working as it does show engine RPM when I crank it over, so is it safe to say the ECU knows the engine is turning over?
 

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You could check to see if the injector resistor is putting out 12v from both of the pins on the 2 pin connector.

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I believe you do it while the key is in the run position. No cranking. I think positive multimeter lead on either pin and negative multimeter pin grounded. Also, you could do this with the injector wires too. Put the positive wire on either pin of the injector wire and ground the negative multimeter wire. Should be around 12v

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey guys, quick question. I've got some stray wiring and cant seem to figure out where it goes. I've got some pics, could these have something to do with the injectors? Also have one that's comming out of the harness for the AFM that I cant seem to figure out either.
 

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That's a pretty engine.
I like the tape over the oil filler cap.
Dont forget oil goes here! LOL J/k
I'm sure there's a good reason behind it.
 

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That's where my 710 goes.
'85 engine in an '84. Works great. Reliable as a rock,except for my dead alternator.
There is that in-line block heater(FROM HELL) that caught fire last week.New lower hose,now.
 

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You're thinking too hard about the injectors. Its fully fuel injected, the ECU won't tell them to fire if there is a serious problem. Like a missing sensor. That stray wire should be dealt with. What year is that thing? The link I posted before to the Factory manual can be followed back to the root and you can get at the full wiring diagram, though that is in the haynes as well and it has diagrams for the other years too (the Cygnus manual is for an 86 I believe...). I think that 4 pin (with 3 wires in it) connector is a check connector thats missing its cap, but I can't be sure without researching it better. Look up the wire colors on the diagrams and you might be able to figure it out. I don't have a mk2 close to me right now to look under the hood for you.

You sure you are putting the distributor in right too? Follow the method in the FSRM. It can be out 1 tooth and still run, albeit poorly, but it its 180deg out it won't.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I checked and all the injectors are getting 12v. All the relays in the EFI circuit checkout, and the timing is good enough for the car to start and idle, its runs just fine if I spray ether in the intake. I did check and made sure the knock sensor is hooked up as well. Is my ECU bad??

SupraFiend, it's a 1985 P-Type.
 

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If it starts with starting fluid. Test for power at ecu ( probe at wiring ) #10 to e1 and #20 to e1 with ign switch on.
If ok then power to injectors is good and resistor pack. Jump fuel pump connector verify pump is pumping, leave connector jumped try to start.If it starts then remove jumper while running. Car stalls AFM fuel switch is bad. Need grounds from intake to chassis, ECU needs to bolted down.
No start possible ECU is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
82TURBOSUPRA thanks, I will check that. I don't know if this right or not but last night I figured out kinda how to test the AFM. I put a screwdriver in it so that it stayed partially open and could hear the fuel pump priming the rail. I then cracked one of the banjos loose and seemed to get constant flow (made a mess too lol). Would it be safe to say AFM is working then? Also how exactly do you test the resistor pack? I looked in my Haynes manual and couldn't really find a procedure, do I just measure its resistance with an Ohm meter?
 

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If you test at the ECU, this will verify the power all the way back to the power source (relays, fuses and resistor pack). Yes the AFM is working for fuel pump.
 
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