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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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Ok, I bought an 85 Supra a number of months ago. It has a blown head gasket. I knew this upon buying it. It also has a bearing noise (throwout bearing). I knew this also. What I did not know was how little I know about doing head gaskets. I got probably 1/100th of the way through, and realized that I accomplished nothing but removing the intake tube, and 1 valve cover. Now, I need your opinions here, because I offered 2 of my friends this deal: IF they get the head gasket replaced, and the car is back up and running by the end of 1 day, I buy for them, 5, count them, 5 cases of beer apiece. Now, that's a lot of beer, and a whole lotta money, but I'm desperate to get this done so I can drive it instead of my limo daily to and from work. Also, winter is approaching... Anyway, does that sound like a fair deal to you guys/gals? If your good friend offered that would you take it? Thanks for your input.
 

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Sounds like a deal to me. About $100 each in beer is a good deal for a HG job. If the head needs machining though, it will most likely not be a 1 day job. It took me about 2 weeks to complete my head rebuild. Best of luck! JB
 

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tell them to do a Port and Polish while they are at it, see if the can do that and fix the problem in one day :twisted:
 

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he man where do you live? i'll do it for 5 cases of beer! 8) sounds fair to me!
 

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id do it for the money instead of beer ;)
thats 3/4 of a fuel pump or RRFPR. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Anyone know what size the hex screws are for the head? I heard 10mm but I'm not sure, and I want to make sure that I got the right size laying around. Thanks!
 

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I seem to remember it being a 6mm for some reason, I think 10 is way too big. This is the allen type hex key you are talking about for the head bolts right? I bought a whole set of them from Home depot (metric) for 15 or 20 bucks just to be sure I had the right one.
 

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Haven't had the head off, but almost every hex nut in that car is a 10mm (yes, there are expections), so have one around just in case. Just my $.02
 

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Yes, 10mm for sure. Craftsman p/n 42679

Phil D.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It was indeed a 10. Well, update on my gasket situation. 2 hours after they started removing the intake stuff, it came off. Then they realized, hey, we don't need to remove that. Well, too late now. Ok, so then the timing belt had to be cut to get the head and valves off. Realize this, they started at 10am, and got the head off the car at 2:30. The gasket was incredibly blown between 5 and 6, and there seemed to be blowby on every cylendar (one said). I'm no expert, which is why I left it to some more experienced people. Well, here it is 10:00 at night, and they just left, the head still needs to be torqued down (no wrench), the valve covers replaced, tune up, timing belt, and much other things. Again, the main thing holding up production is that stupid tool that you need to get the bolt off the crankshaft pulley. I would have saved the timing belt somehow, but it was shot anyway. Generally the outside of the belt is not supposed to resemble that of the back side of an alligator or other such reptilian creature. Once I get the pictures of this, I may have to post them, but I'm sure most know what a blown head gasket looks like. For others, just imagine a regular one, black, and missing some chunks. That's about the sum of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Does anyone have any suggestions on where to get that tool I need for the crankshaft pulley? It's not the harmonic balencer puller, it's the tool that more or less seems to bolt to the pulley itslf and keep it from spinning while you loosen the 195lbs/ft crankshaft bolt. Anyone at all? You in the back?
 

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Put it in 5th gear and have a buddy hit the brakes while you turn it. Or remove starter and wedge a big screwdriver in the flyweheel/flexplate.

Christian
 

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you can remove it by using a large breaker bar. You take your 19mm or 3/4 deep socket (i think that is the size) and attach it to the long breaker bar, put the socket on the bolt, then lay the breaker bar on the ground or the frame of the car so that when you crank the engine over it will cause the bolt to twist itself out. Worked for me a couple of times. To put it back on I used an air impact driver and had to cut down a 3/4 socket to fit the impact gun in the engine bay (I didn't want to remove the A/C condenser). This is not the "right" way to do it I am sure on either counts but worked for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That sounds like an excellent idea. Now I ask you this, with the engine ripped apart (head not torqued down, everything above that still off) is that a bad thing, will it do damage to the head or gasket with it not tightened down? I'm not thinking I'll be able to get to it till the weekend anyway, but this sounds like an excellent idea. As far as the impact goes, I have none of that (air stuff), should I do the 5th gear brake thing to tighten it? Also, once that bolt is off, I'll need the harmonic balancer puller won't I? Thanks again for all your help! 8)
 

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It should not hurt the head in any way as without the timing belt installed you will not be turning any cams or messing with any valves. You may want to pull the fuse for the fuel pump so you don't pump fuel while turning the engine over as I assume your fuel rail is off, but it is really not a big deal IMO. I have not needed a puller, my crank pulley comes off without it, sometimes I need to work it side to side a little while keeping constant outward pressure on it, but never needed a puller. To re-install I would try the in gear thing and maybe consider using some loctite thread sealant, or bring it to a garage to have it torqued when you are done (after tightening it as best you can of course) Do not mess around with this as a stripped keyway equals a major pain in the ass!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'll be doing that, again, hopefully this weekend. with all the belts on and everything, I should be able to torque it to the 195 that it needs, right? If not, I can take it in, maybe get it done cheap or free. Thank you again for all your help, you have no idea how much this helps me. Ah, look at the time. Time to go to bed, dream happy Supra dreams... Thanks a million!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I will be working on it tomorrow morning, and with any luck I'll be able to get somewhere. *sigh* Oh yeah, on the block, the oil sending unit. I got a new one, but the old one didn't have a wire on it. Is it supposed to? All I got is that it screws into the block. Where would I go if I was a rebel wire...
 

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The sending unit should have a tab that the wire slides onto. like a male spade connector. If you have the haynes manual you should be able to look in the back at the wiring diagram and see what color(s) the oil press sending unit should be. I think it is yellow in 82-85.5 supras. You may find the wire, or what is left of it up near and below the air filter or afm box in a bundle. This is where mine was cut. If this is the case you will have to splice a new wire onto it with a barrel crimp or some similar method, the get a spade connector to crimp onto the other end and attach to the unit. Best of luck!
 
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