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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got the car started today, it probably would have only taken a weekend to get it put back together, but the previous owner had left out many parts so many trips to the boneyard were required. After spending about a half-hour adjusting and readjusting the distributor, it finally fired (after removing the distributor bolt and rotating it beyond its range). Ironically, I followed the TSRM to the letter and even had the signal rotor and pickup coil aligned perfectly when the distributor bolt was centered in the slot. But for whatever reason, I have to rotate it counterclockwise just past the adjustment slot for it to fire...

Unfortunately, the make-due PVC intake won't do (it seals well enough to get the car running, but it wouldn't clear the hood). And those new injector seals I tried so hard to find -- well two of them leak (one actually drips fuel to the ground it leaks so bad). I can physically move the injector up and down, so I'm guessing the insulator was not thick enough (leaks from fuel-rail side). Ironically, the seal I was originally worried about was the manifold-side one.

Anyway, the TB and ISC are coming back off next weekend, as will the fuel rail. I'm going to bite the bullet and buy real toyota seals ($60 from the dealer vs $18 from the local auto-parts store) so hopefully that problem will go away. I also was fortunate enough to discover a large crack on the top of the radiator, so it's coming out to be repaired/replaced. But all-in-all I'm quite pleased as the free car has come to life (after a $100 tow and $200 in junkyard parts).

Jeff

PS, if anyone has the hose that goes from the AFM to the throttle body, I'd really like it. I also need a couple of exhaust nuts for the manifold-to downpipe flange. PM me with a reasonable price. I realize many of these are going to be old/cracked so I may end up getting a muffler shop to make a cheap crush-bent pipe vaguely resembling the one on rabidchimp...
 

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check your cam timing or your distributor install. if it's in there right and you have to turn the thing beyond it's setting to fire your cams are way off. or at least your intake cam is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cam gears both have a little recessed dot that lines up perfectly with the notch on the rear timing cover. Actually the cam gears have two notches -- one for TDC compression, and one for TDC exhaust. But the one for TDC compression has a larger raised dot on one of the legs of the cam gear. And the drilled section of the intake cam lines up perfectly when I look through the filler cap. It really is strange, I keep thinking I'm off a tooth on the distributor, but it lines up according to tsrm spec.
 

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It realy does sound to me like your off on tooth on the distributor to cam alignment. I didn't have a TSRM when I just replaced my cracked head and simply lined up the rotor to the #1 cylinder pickup. it ran ... but just. After playing around with it I knew I was out of range and started to try a tooth forward and a tooth backwards between the cam and pickup. Hit the key and it started and idled perfectly.

Anyways, you won't hurt anything by trying this just don't go for a joy ride untill it's properly sorted.
 
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