Toyota Celica Supra Forum banner

21 - 40 of 53 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
219 Posts
where can i get ac lines for an 84. The liquid line has been discontinued and its the only thing holding me up from getting my ac working. this is the little skinny pipe coming off the evaporator. Any help would be appreciated
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,948 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
where can i get ac lines for an 84. The liquid line has been discontinued and its the only thing holding me up from getting my ac working. this is the little skinny pipe coming off the evaporator. Any help would be appreciated
If the high pressure line is discontinued, your best bet is to get one from the boneyard, and clean the inside.

The factory is metric (ie, 5/16"). Tubing is relatively easy to get. New fittings, another story. Then to find an AC shop that has the tools to make
double flares for 5/16".

The kit I created used 3/8" tubing. Easier to get, and increase the overall
high pressure fluid line volume.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Guys.. I just bought a '85 and have A/C issue too. (well in the summer I will).

I made hoses for my last A/C conversion and still have the tools. All I need are the old hose(s) and I can make a new barrier type hose. Let me know if this is a service I can provide.

I plan on replacing all my hoses this winter (as I get time and stop that dam clicking LOL)

Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
870 Posts
Yea I'm not fixing the a/c on my cars. Never gets hot enough here. and the two days that it does I just open the sunroof roll down the windows and drive faster. But nice write up man very informative. Finally got around to reading it today. I know I'm slow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
551 Posts
That is one of the best writeups on this forum. Period.
And thank you for your dedication to this problem that every 80's supra owner will have.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,025 Posts
ok, this faq doesnt say which fitting on the stock compressor is the low side and which is the high side. the tsrm wasnt clear on this either and its been so long since i vac and charged my a/c i dont recall. can anyone provide the info here in the faq?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
William, the low side is the thicker line,the larger fitting,closest to the fender
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,006 Posts
Often you can't get the hose connection onto the high side fitting due to the compressor bracket being in the way. Instead, you can use the high pressure side fitting located just inboard of the receiver/dryer, forward of the radiator (by the passenger headlight).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,025 Posts
ive always been able to hook the high and low hoses from the gauge set directly to the compressor. i may use the high side by the passenger side this time though to get a more even vacume of the system though. gonna be awhile before i can buy the freon unfortunatly. stupid speeding ticket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
I have done a little research on refrigerants and ran across HotShot (R414b). Has anybody used this before? It should be more fitting for an R-12 system than R-134a is.

"Environmentally friendly Hot Shot refrigerant is a high performance replacement for R-12, R-134a and R-500. Its patented blend duplicates R-12's operating characteristics. UL Classified (see complete marking on product) with Safety Classification A1, Hot Shot is up to 8% more efficient than R-12, up to 20% more efficient than R-134a."

"Ever since the introduction of Hot Shot (414b) retrofits have been more reliable, electrical consumption has decreased and overall performance has been increased. Lower condensing pressures and great oil return are just some of the great benefits"

(http://www.icorinternational.com/hotshottestimonials.html)

From what I've seen R-414b is 135% more in cost. R-134a is about $1.16583 per oz and R-414b is about $1.66666 per oz when purchased in a single 10oz/12oz can.

Say, you go through one can of refrigerant a year, you live in the Gobi/Sahara/Kalamari desert. That puts you at $13.99/yr for R-134a and $16.66/yr for R-414b.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
459 Posts
Great write up that will be helping people for years to come.

I was wondering if you could go into more detail about o ring replacements. Maybe as far as where and how many of each size is required? AZ sells a small assortment for about 5 bucks.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,864 Posts
The MK2 is an R12 system.

Standard issue AC system with a few perks.

The AC system is automatic. Using a few temp sensors (one inside the center console),
the AC system auto-magically tries to adjust it self to the selected temperature.
It's terribly complicated by looking at the electrical schematic. Well, it was the 80's....

It does have one nice mechanial benefit. It's externally regulated, and adjustable. This by the EPR valve.
The thing on the passenger's strut tower with a thin hard line connected to it.

This external regulation actually prevent evaporator freezing via pressure sensing.
Many newer cars have themal sensor on the evaporator to shut off the compressor when evaporator freezing is detected.

It does have some extra adjustment features, which use are in the TSRM.

The compressor is a 10P15C, which is designed for R12. Very common, even on non-Toyotas.
The important note is that it's the model. They came in different configurations (like ear mount, etc).
So any 10P15C is not interchangeable with the MK2.

And lastly, the vent CFM is average. One reason is the opening at the blower case for recirculate is rather small.
That's why when you turn it to "fresh" you get a bit more CFM.

The blower motor could use some more RPM, to make it more American car wind tunnel like. :D
What about a BETTER blower motor? Why can't i use an R/C brushless motor designed for 12 volts(3S LIPO) and REALLY make some good CFM? What size is the shaft and the length of the motor? I guess I'll need a used blower motor to see if I can make it work.The Chinese brushless motors are CHEAP! 6-8 mm shaft? I wonder what the RPM limit of the cage is.6,000 RPM?
I may have to find a metal cage to reduce the chance of explosion.I don't have to by pass the resistor block, but I need to wire in a brushless speed control to the motor,indeed. What do you think,during this A/C season?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,864 Posts
This makes me mad I disconnected my OEM system when I swapped out my 5M.

It was R12 and still blew cold air. :(
Well you HAD to or you forgot how hot summer time can be.I made a large sun shade for the hatch on my '84 -Big difference and I still use my A/C in Seattle,sometimes.Mid August? You bet.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,864 Posts
This thread is gonna get "HOT",soon.
I think I need a compressor clutch for my '84.
i really don't want to pull it out to replace it.$200 for evacuation and re charge.
Maybe possible to change clutch while still in the car?
i can pull the radiator.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,864 Posts
My clutch does engage. The A/C light does not go on when button is pushed.
Is the A/C relay on the passenger kick panel accessed through the glove box? There is a re set hole in it.
Maybe a bad switch at the on off button...

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,864 Posts
My clutch does engage. The A/C light does not go on when button is pushed.
Is the A/C relay on the passenger kick panel accessed through the glove box? There is a re set hole in it.
Maybe a bad switch at the on off button...

NOPE! There is a 10 A. fuse(inside a tiny blue box) on passenger kick panel on my '84.
Easier to get to if glove box is removed.
The "condenser fan relay" was not at fault.:rolleyes:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,864 Posts
SEE THIS?http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t...DSCF0007-3.jpg
On my '84 the blue box has a fuse that runs the A/C.
See the square thing with the hole in the top?To the left of the black square one.
That is a C/B that controls the heater fan.A tooth pick slid into that small hole re sets the heater fan.Goes in 1/4 " and it will click.There is no fuse for the blower motor on an '84.
I overcharged the R-12 and it caused the compressor to overload the electrics system.the clutch was SMOKING!
The high side was about 200 PSI,then.
I will still see where I can rig up a 12 V. blower motor to the existing system of ducts to increase AIR out put.
The stock duct system is too restrictive/small.
The right side dash is already apart.Glove box,lower panel and right kick panel is out of the way.

Try this: http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t...DSCF0007-3.jpg
If link is toast see Post # 1744 in WHAT did you do to your Supra today for photo.
(Jack ass fuse).
 
21 - 40 of 53 Posts
Top