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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, I have read the FAQ at the top of the site. I have searched and read a lot of threads. I still have a couple of questions. First though, here is what I have. Stock ct26, manifold, both exhaust and intake off of a 7MGTE, I don't plan on using the intake side. I am getting, a stock MkIII intercooler and BOV and 3000 pipe. For cooling and oil, I am planning on going with the RC pipes. For oil return, I am looking at picking up a 7M pan that has an oil return fitting in it all ready. First question, will this fit on a 5M? I can't seem to find the answer, or my search parameters suck...
Second question is fuel. I know that my stock injectors are not up to the task. I was considering an aftermarket FMU either Vortex or Aeromotive. I also have a set of 7M GE and GTE injectors laying around. Would either of these be easier? I am not looking for cheaper options neccessarily, but easier. First time with a turbo and I don't want to blow my engine up right away:laugh:

I haven't decided on tuning options yet. Lots more to dig through yet. I have the nomex on so start lobbing the 'noob not searching' flaming darts!:laugh:

Thanks guys
 

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For oil return, I am looking at picking up a 7M pan that has an oil return fitting in it all ready. First question, will this fit on a 5M? I can't seem to find the answer, or my search parameters suck...

Can you link, where you read about the turbo oil "return" being in the pan, so I can kick that persons ass. I've seen this mentioned a couple times recently, and it mis-information, that is going to cost someone an engine.

The 7mgte turbo drain, is --- in the block. The return fitting in the pan, is for the oil cooler, and 85+ MKII and Cressida's also have this return/plug. Off shore cars "some" came with a cooler, USDM cars did not.

Rabid Chimp, offers the correct sized bung to WELD, into the pan, to go with his oil lines.

7mgte pan, will physicly bolt onto the 5m, but, the sump location is incorrect to fit a MKII, so, it's pretty much scrap metal to us.
 

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Shawn
what is wrong with oil return to the pan?
Shall i have my engine died for this?
I did return to the pan - block offed oil cooling unit (stock one pressure type) and used return line orifice in the pan....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I know that the return line for the 7MGTE is in the block. The 5M block does not have the return. Rather than having to find some one to weld the bung into my 5M oil pan, I thought I might be able to use the oil return from the cooler that comes on the 7M pan. Since the sump is in the wrong position that nullifies the idea all together. Notice though, in my post I never said it was a turbo oil return line. Thanks for answering my question. I will just find some one to weld the bung into my spare 5M oil pan!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Okay, one more question. Again, I have searched and read lots of threads, particularly anything that BillyM has chimed in on. I have three sets of injectors, of course they will all need cleaning first, that will answer most of the questions, but I digress. I have, a 7MGE with yellow topsI believe(at least they should be as the 7M is an 87), a set of 440s and a full set of 1UZ injectors. According to the stickie at the top, the yellow topped 7MGE injectors flow around 295 or at least the ones tested did. The 1UZs flow around 250 or so. The 440s flow 440. Now I know that I will need standalone to do this. I am looking at an Apexi SAFC II that someone is selling near me for about 100$ My question, the 7M injectors and the will be plug and play due to the fact that they are high imp right? The 440s will be plug and play as well. The 1UZ will not be plug and play since they are high impedience right? Now, with a flow rate of around 300 needed for a lightly boosted(7 to 8 psi) 5M, using the assistance of a stand alone seems like the 295s might work with a good fuel pump. The 1UZs would need a really good pump to work well. The 440s would be overkill. Does my reasoning sound correct? I am also looking at picking up a set of 89 7M injectors as they flow 300-310, but they are low imp and as so would require some rewirring.
 

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Yellow top 295 cc and black top 440 cc are low impedence injectors, high impedence 315 cc from early 7MGE are light green , see this link for the color code :

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/Injectors.html

Yellow top and black top are plug and play if you change the connector on the harness, and leave the injector resistor in place.

SAFC 2 is a piggy back, not a stand alone. I used 295 cc + SAFC 1 without RRFPR in my initial 6M + trubo setup, there was compromoise on A/F ratio but it worked well enough. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay, after playing with the calculator found here... http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorcalc1.php4 It seems like our 190 injectors will need a fuel pressure of 150 psi to reach the 355 cc that the calculator says we need for 250 Hp at the flywheel. Despite what I have read in some of the threads and BillyM's posts everyone was stating 300cc flow for 250 at the flywheel. So it seems like the 7M green top would better than the yellow tops. The 440s would be even better as I would have plenty of room left for additional boost when I want to grenade the engine.:laugh:
The biggest question would be off boost driveability and MPGs. If I understand the concept of an SAFC I would be able to control richness at idle and off boost and help with that problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yellow top 295 cc and black top 440 cc are low impedence injectors, high impedence 315 cc from early 7MGE are light green , see this link for the color code :

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/Injectors.html

Yellow top and black top are plug and play if you change the connector on the harness, and leave the injector resistor in place.

SAFC 2 is a piggy back, not a stand alone. I used 295 cc + SAFC 1 without RRFPR in my initial 6M + trubo setup, there was compromoise on A/F ratio but it worked well enough. Good luck.

Yeah, I realized that little mix up after I posted it. I actually do know the difference, just had a brain fart, not enought sleep lately. I may get the yellow tops anyway and then use the greens. Seems the more reading I do, the more confused I get:32: New question, when you say that there was a compromise with the A/F ratio, what do you mean. Was it too rich or too lean? What did you do for timing or do I even need to worry about that with the piggyback? I am guessing that I will still need a BTM
 
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Now I have no experience with using 295cc injectors however from what I have read they are a pita to tune in considering off boost and idle. That said it seems alot of people have alot of success with the 210cc injectors from 4age powered corollas or mr2's. That's what I chose to use. I'm still dealing with various issues here and there so I am not the most solid source but I have done a fair share of reading.

If a little additional cost isn't a problem I would recommend picking up a set of the 210cc from someone on the board and then getting those flow tested and cleaned. Couple that with a BEGI RRFPR and your well on your way.
 

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A/F was spot on one place and pig rich somewhere else, never get the a/f right across the broad the way I wanted with my SAFC. SAFC is fuel only, you need something like a MSD boost retard to control timing on boost if you want. Many people don't bother.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Matt, of course all this parts buying and what not has me thinking, why not just save the money and go 7MGTE....
 
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Honestly speaking from experience that's exactly what I wish I would have done and exactly what I would encourage you to do. Building a 5mgte will take time, effort and money so why not put those resources into what will most likely be the better product with a 7mgte anyways?
 

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I have gone through 5MGE, 6MGE, 6MGE + turbo, and then 7MGTE, all in the same car, I have to admit 7MGTE is the best of the bunch.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah, 7MGTE is sounding better all the time. Reason I thought about 5MGE+turbo was budget. I got the CT26 and pretty much everything but the management for around 100$ I was thinking that I could go 5M turbo to get the hang of it and then buy and build the 7MGTE slowly. I really don't want to learn as I go on a 1500$ engine. My thinking was learn on the 500$ engine so I don't make mistakes with the expensive one. I may still do the 5M turbo if for no other reason than I can then transfer everything over to the 5M cressida after getting the 7M turbo built. I may end up doing a 7M N/A+T. I have a running (new HG) 7M and now that I have the turbo stuff, all I would need is a bit of a wiring harness and a Turbo ECU The 7M N/A+T is a bit easier build and tune. Plus 230 or so Hp is enough for now in the MkII. I will keep researching and reading. Eventually, there will be a build thread.
 

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look at it this way...
all the accesories/turbo stuff you buy for the 5mgte will work on the 7mgte.
So if you really want to, slap it on your 5mgte and drive it and have fun for a short time while you find a cheap 7mgte block and rebuild it...Then turn the boost all the way up on the 5mgte and have an awesome time till it explodes and put the rebuilt 7mgte block in with all the turbo accesories you already have...
I went 5mgte route for cost. Because I was in no rush to buy the parts and get it together I could buy them when I found the best/cheapest deal but still have good parts.
I love my 5mgte, It makes it a blast to drive. Eventually I will want more power, at that point it will either be stand alone time, or bypass 7m and go straight to JZ.

Anyone who has never driven a turbo mk2 will love a 5mgte cause its still a blast to drive...

The 5mgte is a bit more finicky/time consuming but it gives you something to do on the weekends. I dont know what I would do if my supra was 100% perfect and finished...only thing I could think of would be sell it and start over.
I love my 5mgte and dont regret doing it a single bit.
 

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Shawn
what is wrong with oil return to the pan?
Shall i have my engine died for this?
I did return to the pan - block offed oil cooling unit (stock one pressure type) and used return line orifice in the pan....
Apologies for the late responce to this question. If you have available, or someone has a pic " I don't right now" ... Look at the size difference in the oill cooler drain to the pan, and the turbo drain in a 7mgte block .... It "may" be ok ... But, considering I run 7mgte's at 14-23psi of boost, and 4-6k rpm, at 50-80psi oil pressure, I want the oil draining back to the pan ASAP. Toyota designed the drain hole ... who am I "or anyone here" to argue with the orifice size.
 

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You wrote it like you have no restrictor on oil supply)
enen with 50-80 psi of oil pressure...
i have 1mm oil restrictor and return line is 10mm inner diameter.
AND oil after going through turbo heats and becomes more liquid.. so this drain woul be enough anyway.
I still have not as much boost as you, but this doesnt matter to oil supply and return)
 
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