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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i quickly took these pics with my phone. I'm in school and dont have the time/tools to get into a full head job. I'm supposed to take it to a shop tomorrow and don't want to be taken. Any thoughts? I can't tell exactly where the leak is originating but i know this is the general area. It has been sitting all night so this area was completely dry before i began filling the radiator back up. I poured about a half gallon of water in when it started dripping-This all took place without running the engine-. The bolt you see in the very center of the first picture (through the heat shield) is the same bolt at the very top of the second picture.





Does that pipe that runs from side to side of the second picture carry coolant? Could that have burst during a freeze we had here in Tallahassee recently?
I just don't want to be taken for a fool at the shop tomorrow.
thanks
 

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dont have the time/tools to get into a full head job.. thanks
Don't know what a full head job has to do with anything but hopefully you can find some time and tools to do some exploring for the source of your leak. What would it take for you to pull those heatshields off and anything else off in the area so you can shine a light and inspect it yourself?
 

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That tube is hard to remove with the intake on as it wraps around the back of the engine to the intakeside. It can be done but, with the looks of the engine I would just pull it and freshen up all upper gaskets.
 

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Does that pipe that runs from side to side of the second picture carry coolant? Could that have burst during a freeze we had here in Tallahassee recently?
I just don't want to be taken for a fool at the shop tomorrow.
thanks

it doesnt look like COOLANT, have you been using water instead of antifreeze? best thing pull the exhaust manifold and make sure is not that tube, or use a small mirror and a flashlight to see it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I got a mirror in there.. looks like there's a pinhole on the topside of that tube. what is it going to take to get that replaced? is it necessary to remove the ex manifold? and other things?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
how terrible would it be to try a temporary fix? this is my only mode of transportation and i have class five days a week.
 

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Worth a try, split a short section of heater hose, place the hose over the hole in the pipe, then put a hose clamp (over the hole) and tighten??? Should work if there is enough room behind the pipe to get the heater hose around...

how terrible would it be to try a temporary fix? this is my only mode of transportation and i have class five days a week.
 

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you have to pull the intake and the exhaust manifold to get it fix, or pull the exhaust manifold and if you are able to see the pinhole and do a temporary fix, but if you already have one pinhole there are more to come.
 

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I've used 2 part epoxy for a few months on a rad before. I'd probably do 2 part Epoxy and then heater hose.

And man its been a long time since you posted!
 

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how well would heater hose hold up to that hight temp?
that heater hose will have the same function as the radiator hoses and the heater hoses, use good clamps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
epoxy and heater hose eh.. my only concern is being that close to the ex manifold. but i will trust in those that have gone before me. <--just saw avatar and wanted it to sound epic

Supra_Toy,
where did you find that part for $105? The mechanic I called said it would be ~$160 Did it go up in the past year and a half?

And man its been a long time since you posted!
yes it has!. unfortunately the only time I am able to get on is when I have a problem that prevents me from getting to school regularly. I'm up to my neck in architecture school (my studio is 4 hours, 3 days a week.. and thats only 1 out of 4 classes) I'm finishing my third year now and will be applying to grad schools soon so it doesn't look like its going to get any easier any time soon. oh and I have to work too.
Any architects in the house?
 

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that price was from the dealer ala Mark...
 

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I agree on AJ's temp fix. You can also try brazing the coolant bypass pipe.

I have a spare bypass pipe I could sell you, but I don't see doing this without pulling the engine. (OK, could be done, but pulling the engine would be simpler).

For now, patch it - and use antifreeze for the anti-corrosion protection even in an area with no freezing. Should be good for up to a year, then replace when you can pull the engine. When you pull the engine I now recommend you also replace the lower timing cover gasket, MAJOR source of oil leaks on the 5MGE (and causes the alternator to die).
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Rich, pm sent.

thanks so much for all the advice, everyone.
I was talking with the mechanic and he kept asking if the car was "mint" and "clean". i simply told him no, it is in terrible shape but i just cant get rid of it. its going to kill me, but for some reason i feel ok about that.
 

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I was talking with the mechanic and he kept asking if the car was "mint" and "clean".
take it to another shop, a job is a job in any car no matter what shape it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
he wasn't being insulting. this was in the first conversation over the phone. he was wondering why I would hold on to and try to fix a 27 year old car.
 
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