Okay to update this thread , I got another 5m , this one is out of a 85 Supra p type. Engine is complete and was running when pulled and had cylinder head rebuilt a year ago.
I’m getting ready to order gaskets and such to reseal and get this engine ready to swap in. and I’ve been doing research on what needs to be swapped over. Anybody got time to answer questions? I just want to make sure I got this right haha
I see that I need to swap over the intake manifold apparently so this can work with my 82 ecu and harness.
Alternator and belt drive is different.
So what can I do about the alternator since the belt drive is different ? Can I swap crank pulleys ? Do I swap over mounting brackets ?
And when I order gaskets , do I order intake and exhaust manifold gaskets for an 82 5m or for a 85 5m ? I know that there was some changes throughout the years and I want to get this right.
Yes you can swap main harmonic balancer pulleys. I would swap alt & mount , as the charging sys is different.
To be noted: the 82 has square tooth for timing belt and the 4 pulleys (crank, oil pump, in/out camshaft) can all also all be swapped to the round belt/pulleys - but I woukd leave square 82 to go with the car OE.
The main difference in the gasket is the one between intake runners and intake chamber (where it's cast EFI). The 85 has a D shape openings, while previous have O shape. Since you should keep the 82 intake, go with O, 82. Under that runner, the 85 will have a Knock sensor that you have no use with the 82 harness/ECU.
I got this info from Leslie, Jimvegas00, and Dave A. Well Jim told me but the info for this comes from Leslie and Dave A. If you have a 82 or 83 and change out your alternator to anything newer. You will have a problem with your charge light and brake light not shuting off. I had this problem...
Haven’t stopped on this build ,haven’t had much time to post , been pretty busy balancing this project and working on cars for a living so I get a bit burnt out sometimes lol. Here’s a quick Update for now. but I will come back and add more pics. here’s a pic of the engine now , I have the old
Engine out and Im currently reassembling the fresh engine. Spent a lot of my spare time cleaning and prepping and painting and doing preventative maintenance to the engine that’s getting swapped in.
still need to finish connecting a few vac lines ,
Install egr , install new coolant hoses , install water pump , new thermostat , clean throttle body and attach the engine accessories. Still a good amount of work but we’ve come far.
I got the whole car back together now and it runs pretty good , only issue is it starts to run hot after a few minutes. I replaced water pump and thermostat before putting engine in. Didnt have any issues with previous engine running hot. I’m suspect of either air in the system or faulty thermostat. Any body know what’s the best way to bleed the air out of the system? Any help is appreciate. Last thing I want to do is ruin this engine. View attachment 17879
Unless you were measuring the old engine with a temp gun at the housing, you have no way of knowing it is reading properly on the dash. Hell the old engine may have had a lower temp thermostat too for all you know.
Best way to bleed these(and honestly many) cars is with this sweet tool, you can buy it at just about any parts store. Love it, total game changer for coolant bleeding for me.
Dang I actually have one of those at work….I’ll pick one up locally and give it a try. And you’re totally right about all those points. Thank you for your advice. I’m going to pick up another and give it a try and keep this updated. One of those ir guns wouldn’t be so bad either 👍🏽
The best way to fill them is with the hose on head top, rear of cyl #6 open until it is full. Then, there is always as basic help, the car on ramps, and 'pump' the air out of hoses, but I'm sure you already know that.