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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
lost oil cap, now running rough - NOW WITH ADDED 2JZ

Hey guys,

sometime during the past few days my oil cap has come loose. i assume it has something to do with the corrugated dirt roads ive been driving on.

anywhoo, long story short, the top of the engine is now coated in oil. the low oil idiot light did not come on (digidash), and when i checked the oil the next morning after id noticed it, it was on low. went for a walk (decent 30k!) to look for the cap, couldnt find it, so filled oil to full, chucked a sock in there and drove to the servo and bought a cap.

i only noticed the cap missing because the car started to run rough, die at idle from low revs, hesitating when accelerating, and jerking around.

ive checked plug leads, and dizzy cap and rotor, the spark is fine for all leads, even though they have oil on them. there is next to no oil in the spark well, so im kinda stumped on this. im about to go out and get a plug wrench to check the plugs...

note the car is an ADM ma61 with a 5m-e engine...

any suggestions?
 

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The car pulls air through the usually sealed crankcase at low RPMs, which is now not so sealed now. Buy a new oil cap and stick it on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ive already bought a new cap, put it on and driven the car a bit, but the problem is still there... its still rough as guts.
 

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Sounds like a bitching excuse to kill the 5m-e with fire, and put a real motor in there...

Start by pulling your plug wires one by one, and see if one of them causes no change. If you pull one and the car doesn't hesitate more, that is the culprit. Go from there.

--billyM
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
hahahah billy, i know. first thing i did instead of asking for advice, or even calling anyone, was start searching prices for 2jz-ge :p

plugs arent a problem, checked that yesterday. i do believe ive found the culprit.

there is a nice vac leak between the throttle body and the airflow thing with the filter, in the form of that black round backpressure object. the exhaust seems to have melted through it a bit ;)

I FREAKING HATE UNRELATED PROBLEMS!!!

will head to the autoshop in this town in a sec, and hope they have some pipe cuts.

i noticed the vac issue got a bit worse when i stabbed the hole with a screwdriver... :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
okie doke, now i really hate unrelated problems...

fixed the hole, got a piece of pipe in there now.

still running like a bitch, and to add to that, there seems to be a slight knocking sound :'(

will degrease and clean the motor over first thing tomorrow morning with some degreaser and water dispersant, in the case that it has got somewhere it shouldnt and is conducting something it shouldnt....
 

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Ill go there-M series engines dont take well to oil starving. Pinpoint the knock with a listening tool. Hopefully its anything but rod knock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
bleh, more problems after another. found another vacuum leak with some engine starter... gonna have to try fix this too...
will degrease tonight if its cool enough...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
hmm. i hope this motor lasts till i get home... have to do a 230km trip home... (140 miles).

after degreasing and spraying the motor, ive run it for a bit, and down next to the oil filter ive found a small bit of nice green coolant... not the best sign.

could it be a bhg?

-not idling, stalling
-running real rough, mainly around the 2000 to 3000 rpm range, it is throbbing..
-coolant has a tiny little bit of an oily film over it, im not sure if this is from the exhaust fumes
-car has knocking sound, by ear i think its coming from bottom end somewhere
-no chocolate milk oil, i guess this is a plus?

whats the best way to drive on an almost bhg? i will be buying more water and oil before the trip i guess, but is there a certain speed / rpm i should maintain to minimize damage? its all 100 to 110km/h roads out here...
 

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Drain the coolant so it does not spin a bearing when it does go into the oil. Use just water only unless its below 0degs. For a temp fix just to get it home I have used ground black pepper. If you do not have that use egg whites. If its just a gasket seep and not blown this will seal it. If its blown it will slow the leak but needs to be toped off every 20 or so miles. If its a crack it may also stop the leak for a few miles (50 or so)
Best bet is to make sure it holds water and pressure before making a long trip. Plan for a few more hours of just sitting (cool down time) to your travel time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
where i am now, we only run off rainwater. i dont have anything to drain the coolant either, and im sure my relatives, who are coming up here after me dont want to see coolant all over the yard.. i dont think ill be able to drain it...

i cant see any white smoke coming out of the exhaust, which i assume means theres no coolant burning, though i think there is some oil. i have spare oil, but not enough for a change... temp wasnt going up when i was driving it either..


is sitting at a certain speed / rpm a good idea?
 

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where i am now, we only run off rainwater. i dont have anything to drain the coolant either, and im sure my relatives, who are coming up here after me dont want to see coolant all over the yard.. i dont think ill be able to drain it...
That is why you store it in a jug like a 2liter bottle or even a milk jug.

i cant see any white smoke coming out of the exhaust, which i assume means theres no coolant burning, though i think there is some oil. i have spare oil, but not enough for a change... temp wasnt going up when i was driving it either..
It is just a seep than


[QUOTEis sitting at a certain speed / rpm a good idea? ][/QUOTE]

A steady speed is better than up and down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
alrighty, about to drive home.

have spare water, tools and oil, hopefully i dont need to use them.

edit: got home alright, but somethings not good at all ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
awesome.

checked the compression earlier, turns out i was right :p

150 150 150 150 60 60.

BHG between 5 and 6.

now the question is, replace it with another m series while im poor, or take term deposit out and 2jzge it.

will depend on whether i can get motor (+loom+ecu), bellhousing, fly, clutch, PS lines, mounts... anything im missing?
 

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2j on a tight budget is a sick gamble.
A 5/6m will be cheap, simple, and reliable until 2j funds have been saved up.
Just my 2 cents from being in the same situation (and the 6m has been treating me well ever since).
 

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i had the same problem.. 5m-e motor... tractor motor... bad knock.. mine was the cam inside the head tho... i thought about rebuilding but a 1jz came along at the right time.. but if ur using the car as a DD..... then id agree with Rt36... get that head gasket fixed and save up ur dollars for a J motor later down the track
 
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