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Yeah google photos is awesome because it just sort of backs up like magic, but if you don't put things in an album and set em to public sharing on forums can be weird. Your old posts still seem to be workin on the previous page with the google photos at least.

Really diggin the gold wheels with polished lips on your car man, classic look.
 

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Looking good. New beemer DD?

Go too low with your new coil overs and you'll have to drop the rear and open up that rabbit hole (camber correction, etc) lol

Of course you've already stepped into another rabbit hole in the front. I see no RCAs or camber plates :p
 

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Discussion Starter #303
Thanks for letting me know about the pics gamble, I love the classic look of the wheels too! Lately I've had thoughts of switching to 17's for the tire selection, but my current tires still have alot of life left.

That beamer has been in the family for a while, I DD it every now and then but my dad has been driving it the last few months. It's the best suited car (aka only suited car) we had insured at the time for the events, haha.

Rear camber correction is something i was really hoping to avoid for a long time... As for the front end, I know I played myself by not getting those things. I've been meaning to buy the coils for a long time so now that I've bitten the bullet for those, I'll probably order the camber plates and RCA's after the first drive, haha. I have access to a machine shop while I'm at school, I was thinking of machining up the rcas on a milling machine. They don't look terribly complicated, just a chunk of aluminum with 3 holes. You think that's something I can get away with doing myself?
 

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Honestly the price of t3 camber plates is so cheap i'd just roll with those. Another option is to go full 240sx swap up front if you're looking to go crazy, you'd get bigger/better brakes and more readily available upgrades at the same time too. You basically run the full coilover setup from the s13 bolted to your stock ball joint(i think?) and drill new holes for the s13 camber plates. Can't seem to find any guides on it at the moment but i just haven't had enough coffee, it gets mentioned in the FB groups all the time anyone brings up drifting/angle/suspension tuning.
 

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I found this one...

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/22472-S13-suspension-(front-and-rear)-into-MZ11-Ma61-*LCA-S-*

Its doable but involves a lot of dicking around and dealing with a lot of changes. You need to run different tie rod ends, your wheel spacing and clearance change, as does your track width plus you loose 100mm of height, and from what I'm seeing they look like they are camber limited in the end as the camber plate is adjusting out some of the geometry changes. This guys still spent a grand doing the swap too. Considering Manvir has already invested in the only part that's significantly cheaper this is probably a bad idea for him.

Manvir, avoiding the camber issues in the rear is easy, don't lower much.
 

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Discussion Starter #306
Thanks for the tips guys, yeah gamble I'll just buy the T3 parts, that was the original plan. I've read about the s13 parts swap before but it made my head hurt too much so I stopped reading, haha. As for brakes, If I ever get around to upgrading them, I was thinking of just doing the z32 300zx route, it seems simple (and cheap) enough.

Good to know I wont be needing the camber correction stuff in the rear, I don't really plan on going lower than in the pictures. I was actually hoping to start autocrossing the supra, once I get the car running tip top again. That's probably when I'll start thinking about suspension and brake modifications a bit more seriously.
 

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Well if you jack the front back up to where you have it in your sig pic you'll be fine, but if you take the rear down to match the front as you showed it in the last pic you will have camber issues for sure. If you leave the front dropped that much you are going to have a lot of rake, which isn't the best for handling.
 

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That corolla was parked a couple over from me at the All Japanese Classic meet in North Van in August. Cool car, but perhaps a bad choice in platform for that motor. Thing has stress cracks at the B pillars from the silly (yet cool!) B pillar placement\design, and the torque\autox stress.

Recommendations for autox, sign up for VCMC's Velocity autox school next spring. Its the cheapest from of drivers education you can find, and you get an entire day of instruction on the track.

that's my good friend JD's car, the v8 corolla. JD and I have been drifting together for the better part of a decade. He was in s13s, then s14s then got a sedan e7. he crashed it at an event and he chose to swap chassis'. the liftback you see is actually a local car here thats crossed dorikaze owners hands a few times, its nick name was black betty. JD really likes the weirdness of this car and we all know its not a great platform due to the B pillar but that was not something he cared about. He avidly drifts that car at our events and we drive together in the "old toyotas". lol "ratty", pot meet kettle. its really well done...unless you are talking about how aged the paint is, and how shiny the wheels are. its not a hacked together car, thats for sure. we also call this one the "flexy castle"

 

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i was referring to Manvir's comment about rattyness, as his car is a rats nest of wires.
the car is totally a terrible chassis for v8s, motorsports and modifying, he knew that. i think he might be adding a cage or a 4 pt perhaps, but he doesnt work on it too much now a days other than items breaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #312
Hey guys, been a while. Glad to see a good handfull of yall are still posting regularly!

Been super busy with school, work and life the last couple years and honestly haven't really been able to work on the car at all. In fact, I was actually working at Tesla out in California the last eight months, which was awesome but kept me so far far away from my baby. It seems like this winter however, the stars might actually align, and I'll have some time to work on the car.


Little update with the car: Last winter I actually removed the turbo setup because I was getting pretty frustrated with all the hassle and not having time to properly work on it. Ended up getting a pacesetter header and it worked pretty well for a little while.

Unfortunately the last time we drove the car, we saw signs of high crankcase pressure (blowing off breathers and steaming everywhere) and the car was still smoking pretty bad after removing the turbo if I remember correctly. So we likely had pretty bad blowby and it's possible the rings or the headgasket are toast. Will probably get around to doing a compression tests one of these weekends just to confirm.

So going off the assumption that the engine is toasted, I kind of have two courses of action that I can take with this, and I could probably use some advice.

I currently have a 2JZ with the mount/adapters and bellhousing and what not. However, I don't have an OEM ecu, and I'm not certain I can run it with my microsquirt computer. My main concern with the 2JZ-GE is the vvti, not sure if I can just "ignore" or block it off somehow and continue to use the microsquirt. I think in that case I'll just get an oem computer and harness.

I also have a spare 5mge engine that we used the exhaust cam out of when we fixed the misfire in like 2015 that is probably in good shape. That would probably be a simple swap as I can probably just redo the wiring harness nicely, and I've got everything else figured out. I'll probably also redo all the turbo piping and stuff to try to get the whole setup more clean/reliable.

The main constraints here will probably be budget and time, considering that I'll realistically have a couple weeks to do all the work. I'm leaning towards the 2JZ-GE swap, and future proofing it for a turbo later on. Curious to hear what you guys think. Looking forward to finally being able to work on the thing again, but also know it'll be a lot of curse words and late nights.

Anyways, my degree is coming to an end in April and I don't really know where I'll be when I graduate (potentially very far away from this car) so this may be the last time I work on the car for another long period. Was just reading through this thread and all the memories hit me. I'm thankful to have been able to learn so much working on this thing and learn so much from all of you guys. Appreciate the support over the years and glad you guys have kept this site alive. Hopefully I'll have some more updates in the next month or so. Need to fix my dads E36 convertible top first so I can kick it out of the garage and steal the spot, lol.
 

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Good to see you're still around and thinking about the car, if not exactly playing with it.

At this point, I'd recommend doing the minimum/easiest route to get the JZ engine in the car. You'll be very happy with it.

What are you taking in school? If you're thinking you'll be moving... take the car with you :)
 

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Discussion Starter #314
Hey Dean,

I definitely think about the car, pretty much everyday haha.

Yeah, as far as the 2JZ goes, the minimalist route will either be an OEM ECU/harness or just redoing whatever I need to for the microsquirt to work, hence the worry about the vvt stuff. I'm really hoping to just be able to "ignore" it or hook up some simple external controller for it if I go with my microsquirt. The engine will also be refreshed externally before install. I've already been struggling with the crank bolt, if you've got any tips to get it loose.

The more I think about it, I realize there is a bunch of other things besides the engine on that car that still need attention, so I don't want to get too lost in turbo nonsense this time around.

Finishing up my mechanical engineering degree! Would love to take the car with me if I move anywhere in Canada. However, I'm mostly thinking about working my first job/doing a masters degree in Europe or the United States. In that case it'll get tricky.

I'll try to more regularly update this thread once I get working on it again.
 
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