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Discussion Starter #321
None of your pics in the above post work for me, all of the ones in the previous do.

Glad to see you're still around and playing with the car!

About the JZ crank pullies, they are a bear alright. I had to do one over christmas. Used my slightly less beefy breaker bar that fits nicely in my big cheater bar, that combo has worked on every 5m, 6m and 7m I've ever tried it on. Broke the breaker bar. Got a new huge cheater bar (like 6 feet) for my beefy breaker bar, and it didn't crack it loose, but I couldn't get the damn motor to stay as it was out of the car and on the floor. Even with my dad standing on the intake and pushing with all his might against the ceiling, it wouldn't crack. Finally, I replaced dad with a 2x4 brace cut to fit so it would push directly against a ceiling truss, and the motor couldn't move at all and it cracked off. Brutal lol.
Haha that's definitely an effort, probably the best horror story I've read so far. I was gonna go with a huge bar but also didn't have anywhere to hold the engine in place. Glad that after you braced it with your house/garage it cracked open, I feel like my ceiling would break first haha.

Messed around with the pics and reposted in the next page, lmk if those work.
 

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Discussion Starter #323 (Edited)
What FSAE team?
I tried to join mine in college but wasn't cool or smart enough 😅
Haha dang, were you an engineering student? Our team seldom takes non-eng. students for engineering related work so that might be a part of it. The team is Formula UBC Racing -> University of British Columbia, Internal Combustion Team. I was also on the electric race car team at some point but that's a story for a different time.

Shameless plug, here's our instagram and a pic of when I was doing some testing to determine cooling system requirements.
http://instagr.am/p/B40vKVJBnnm/
 

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Haha dang, were you an engineering student? Our team seldom takes non-eng. students for engineering related work so that might be a part of it. The team is Formula UBC Racing -> University of British Columbia, Internal Combustion Team. I was also on the electric race car team at some point but that's a story for a different time.

Shameless plug, here's our instagram and a pic of when I was doing some testing to determine cooling system requirements.
http://instagr.am/p/B40vKVJBnnm/
Yeah I did mechanical engineering at Virginia Tech. But FSAE was so popular unless you were smart and willing to dump like 40 hours a week into it someone got picked over you hah
 

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Very cool about the FSAE car! Too bad about the BC driving center and all the Covid crap. The driving season is probably going to be pretty crap this year. I was hoping to put a solid autox season with my 86 this year, then covid hit and now we are sort of loosing half or all of the BC driving center because some big company leased half of it for like 10 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #326
Yeah I did mechanical engineering at Virginia Tech. But FSAE was so popular unless you were smart and willing to dump like 40 hours a week into it someone got picked over you hah
Our FSAE team is a little like that too. Maybe not as picky for smarts cuz I was there but we definitely need people that make huge time sacrifices to do work on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #327
All the pics are working for me now, weird? If you need help deleting the previous post let me know, I'm a mod now.

Very cool about the FSAE car! Too bad about the BC driving center and all the Covid crap. The driving season is probably going to be pretty crap this year. I was hoping to put a solid autox season with my 86 this year, then covid hit and now we are sort of loosing half or all of the BC driving center because some big company leased half of it for like 10 years.
Yeah I remember hearing about losing the pad a while back. It's a pretty big hit for us since we used to go testing there a few times a year which is super important for reliability and other component testing. Hopefully other options open up soon that aren't too far out.
 

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Discussion Starter #328
Finished up school today so I'll be hopefully be going full steam on this car for the next while.

Quick updates with some more 3D prints.

The machine - Ender 3 Pro - Super happy with this printer, I think I got it for around ~$250 USD and its been used a handful of times for personal stuff and was going hard in the FSAE shop for the last few months. I think now that this tech is so available, small reproduction parts for old cars like these will start being alot easier to get. Especially with how affordable it is now and how much free software is out there for 3D printing and modelling.









Glued in these little black "nuts" to the trim piece so I could attach/remove the screen with screws if needed. Was a good thought but I failed pretty bad with the glue job so it's not super functional. Shouldnt fall off though





Speaking of reproduction parts, 19 year old me ravaged the trim piece with a hole saw so I could fit some guage in there (top left hole). Printed out a little cup so I could clean up the hole and attach an E-Stop switch. The estop will be used to cut power to the ECU if needed. I want to eventually install a 4 or two post battery cutoff as well at some point.




Not quite OEM since I had to oversize it a bit to fit the larger hole I drilled out.



^ How it'll look with the E-stop. Going to be installing some USB charge ports in the bottom one. Really wanted to use the AC button for something cool, but the HDMI cable going into the screen will foul that part. writing this now, I think I might be able to flip the AC button to the top side and put the estop on the lower one. Hmm, just need something fun to use the AC button for now. Maybe I should put neon lights or nitrous in the car.

Anyways thats it for now, got a pretty decent list of stuff to work through for the next while. Hopefully be updating soon. Probably more wiring next on the list...
 

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Discussion Starter #329
All the pics are working for me now, weird? If you need help deleting the previous post let me know, I'm a mod now.

Very cool about the FSAE car! Too bad about the BC driving center and all the Covid crap. The driving season is probably going to be pretty crap this year. I was hoping to put a solid autox season with my 86 this year, then covid hit and now we are sort of loosing half or all of the BC driving center because some big company leased half of it for like 10 years.
Also, yeah please if you could delete the last post that would be great, still won't let me edit. Thanks!
 

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Not sure if killing power to the ECU in an emergency is the best way to go about it. From a safety standpoint all that really matters is fuel and to a lesser extent spark. ECU having power is nice assuming it logs errors and min/max logging or some such, so you can use it like a black box to diagnose after the fact.
 

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Discussion Starter #331
Not sure if killing power to the ECU in an emergency is the best way to go about it. From a safety standpoint all that really matters is fuel and to a lesser extent spark. ECU having power is nice assuming it logs errors and min/max logging or some such, so you can use it like a black box to diagnose after the fact.
Yeah, I see what you mean. I'm using the ECU to ground the fuel pump/injectors so I was hoping that would be enough for fuel control. It's not so much for emergency stopping the engine incase of an engine control issue where I would want data but more of just a quick push button to kill the engine. Also I've had issues before with my key being unreliable for shut off so its a bit off safety factor there as well. I'm also debating doing a full battery cut off switch as well, just not sure what the best way to implement it would be.
 

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OHhhhhh ok so cut the ECU to ground connection, so anything that is supposed to ground through the ECU gets cut off, got it.
 

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Also, yeah please if you could delete the last post that would be great, still won't let me edit. Thanks!
Done.

Ah yes, dealing with 19 year old me's mistakes must be fun. You got a pretty good car out of the gate so sticking with it makes a lot of sense. For myself, I did everything to my first car, an old 82 Ptype. Then when I got out of school and started making some money, I promptly started over on a new car that was exactly what I wanted. I loved that 82, but it was a good decision.
 

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Discussion Starter #334
Done.

Ah yes, dealing with 19 year old me's mistakes must be fun. You got a pretty good car out of the gate so sticking with it makes a lot of sense. For myself, I did everything to my first car, an old 82 Ptype. Then when I got out of school and started making some money, I promptly started over on a new car that was exactly what I wanted. I loved that 82, but it was a good decision.
Thanks!
Yeah, I've definitely done alot of repeat work on the same stuff on this car because each time I have a new (better?) perspective on what it should be like. Yeah I can imagine if this car was worse off it would have been hard to let go. Atleast the car you have now definitely turned out great! If I were to start over, I'd probably just ruin it all over again so might aswell only ruin one! Haha
 

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Discussion Starter #335
OK, some new stuff.

Made some cute little adapters to fit the extra gauges that I had removed from the stereo cover thing piece into some amazon gauge pod I found laying around.

Lost the gauge nut for one of the gauges so with trial and error, finally printed my first set of working threads. Of course a couple weeks later I found the original piece.




Made this little phone charger thing








And this is the whole thing

\A

I also found the cigarette lighter which had the bezel for the top part, so I probably could've taken apart the bezel and used that. Oops, too late again. I also totally destroyed/exploded the AC button by accident so there goes using it for something cool (Damn that AC pun wasn't intended but kinda funny). Ill probably make the screen bezel black instead of white but I'm too lazy now. Maybe I'll paint it with a sharpie or something.

Started to mount stuff to the glove box. This glove box has seen better days so I didn't feel to bad punching holes in it.
Also at this point I decided the power system was better off in the engine bay so I don't need to run 80 more wires thru the firewall. So I abandoned that whole CAD glovebox thing but I might go back to see if I can make some bits to help fix patch together this glovebox.


This injector resister used to bother me a lot because I lost the Toyota connectors on the engine harness side and used spade connectors that kept falling out.



Switched it over to a 3-pin deutsch connector.



Decided to take care of this bundle of wires that had been sitting here since the PO had the car,


Removed the seat, pulled some of the carpet back and pulled those out, so now the person sitting back there (who doesn't exist 99%of the time) doesn't have to step on cables.

I rewired an amplifier setup for the rear of the car meant to connect to the raspberry pi. I don't have any pics of that tho. I also don't actually have an amplifier, lol. I don't think the pi will be able to actually power any (decent) speakers, so hoping I can get that to work at some point.

Snakeskin'd (is that what its called? That's what I call it) the engine/sensor harness. Still going to change a bit while I work on the power harness/wiring.


CAD (Cereal Box aided design for project binky fans) template for the power panel.


Then I cut a sheet of ABS. I mostly cut this part with a hack saw and a blade. Really, once you gouge enough material with the blade, you can just kinda force the abs to bend at the cut, its soft enough that it will fail eventually so didn't need any fancy tools.

You can also see the backside of the stereo panel thing. Glued in "screw in" mounts for the voltage transformers for the screen and phone chargers. Also used a random 2 pin connector,I think from a Honda or something for the estop switch. Just so I don't need to undo the screws every time, because lets be real, this stuff is gonna be in and out a lot. You can also see the remainder of the cereal box.



Bit of fitment checking


A bit of connecting. I actually messed this up because I forgot two of the relays ground thru the ECU (Fans, Fuel Pump). You can see I attached all five grounds on the fuse panel which will go to chassis. I'll fix that later. I will also be removing the 5th relay wire on all of the relays, because I'm pretty sure I don't need default on for any of these. To clarify each relay is for - Fan - Fuel Pump - Fuel Injectors - ECU - Interior electronics (Raspi, screen, chargers)


Test fit - Need to make some spacers still to push it away from the wall. Reason being the mounting screws for the relay box and fuses poke thru the back. Also need to make something to make it stiffer on the long edge. It's pretty floppy especially by the relays.


I'm running a 4 guage wire to/from this fuse block to be extra safe in terms of current. Thats also a lie because I ran out of 4 guage running the amplifier, so it might have some 6 guage until i can buy some more 4 guage. If anyone wants to know how to do this, just google diy racecar fuse panel and theres like 8 good videos on how to build something like this.

If you want to do it even better, you can buy something like this,
, like in this video

By the time I found that out, I already bought everything though so it was too late. I'll probably do that next time I rip all of this apart. I was also thinking you could probably get away with another cars fuse box or maybe a motorcycle fuse box or something.

That's it for this post, just gonna put the engine stuff in a different post so I can check if pics work. Think im getting the hang of it though so hopefully its fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #336
Also side note, I really love the way shaved engine bays look. But also I could never bring myself to remove the diagnostic light under the hood. It's so useless but sooooo cool. I love showing people it like hey, look at this thing I never use because it takes an hour to wrap the wire up and put it back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #337
Pulled the 7m pan off (forgot to drain the oil before hand, thought it was already drained. This was a huge mistake and you will probably see sand piles on the floor in every picture to soak up all the oil that constantly spilled eveywhere)



5M cressida oil pump and 7m supra oil pump


5M oil pump installed, sealing surface mostly cleaned, I think by this point i drained most of the oil out by tilting the engine into a drain tray. The drain tray of course wasn't perfectly aligned with the container --> disaster.


A nice mess,



Popping out the old dipstick was surprisingly easy. Just a mallet and what looks like a brake caliper bolt and it taps right out. You can see it lying, defeated, on the floor.


Dipstick comparison from the 5M. Literally the same part but the 5M had nice zinc coating or something and the 7M one had rusty paint. I decided to refinish and reuse the 7M one. I painted it along with the spark plug boot locator/holder thing, since that thing looked pretty rough too.



Was very nervous to drill a hole in my new old engine block as a few of us probably would be. Anxiety increased 100x when this happened. (See broken drill bit inside engine block)

After snapping it in half I was able to appreciate just how thin (read: weak) the actual cross section of what might seem to be a big drill bit is. Luckily it backed out with a mallet easily, phew.

Pulled off a support brace to make it easier to install the dipstick, sanded all the rust off and sprayed it because might as well.

buried under the boxes is the old 635csi engine, 400,000+km and it still ran fine.


Test fit the stick in the new hole, with my freshly painted brace. It contacted the brace, of course. I drilled out the hole on the engine block side of the brace and got a bit more clearance but after installing the dipstick there's still a bit of contact. I think I can get some more clearance by drilling out the bracket on the other end that attaches to the brace.


I installed the dipstick by applying a ring of black permatex RTV around its edge, then repeatedly wailing on it for a while with a mallet ruining the paint I just applied. I think I probably could've opened the hole a bit more to get it to go in easier but I was worried about making it too big. Hopefully it doesn't vibrate itself out of that hole for a while.

I spent a while debating how to seal the old dipstick hole. I was thinking to open the hole a bit and seal it with a NPT plug, but I didn't really want to go to the store. I found some GM brake caliper bolts that seemed like they would fit without much work.



It seemed like it might work and if it failed, I figured i could drill out whatever mess occurred and start again. First I took a Christmas tree drill bit and opened the hole just a bit on the opening. This was meant to give it a chamfer so I could start threading it. Then I just pushed it in until the threads hit the block, and started forcing it in while turning. It did start to cut its own threads but very slowly. A couple threads in, I pulled it out and the first few threads of the bolt were toasted. I kept going anyways and found a couple extra bolts, then I treated them as sacrificial for the greater purpose of creating this thread.

After toasting a couple bolts, the third was able to go thru and clean up the rest of the thread with no damage to itself. If you try this, probably better to just cut the thread with a tap. If not, I just did it really slowly with lots of backing out and checking. This took probably like an hour and I was sweating waiting for a bolt to get stuck the whole time.


Cut the bolt short and you have a really nice plug. A socket head keeps the head size small, I don't think many hex heads for similar diameter threads will actually fit on the casting because of the nearby features on the block. Also that little chamfer/diameter increase at the end of the threads stops the bolt going in further and actually kind of seals off that thread.



Here's the thread. You can see where my christmas tree bit lightened up the block a little bit. I would not have any faith in this thread at holding real force but it doesn't have to and the screw sat in it fine so it should seal.


test fit


Here you can see how little clearance there is for the screw head, which is why I think a hex head might not work. The inside surface of the block also isn't really flat ( I think? Might not be true) so I didn't want to do a scew/nut combo (ie with the head on the inside of the block)


Here are both the plug and dipstick installed (below pic). You can see the brace isn't symmetric about the bolt because of how I tried to widen the hole to get clearance to the dipstick. That did help, but not really enough so I'm going to try to widen the mounting hole on the other end as well.

My genius brain also thought, hey to stop this bolt from leaking, I can use thread sealant and to stop it from coming out on the highway, some thread locker. Of course immediately after I started screwing it in the two mixed together. At that point I didn't feel like turning back so I just pushed it all through. The thread did actually seem locked when I lightly tried to open it so I'm pretty sure it would be fine.

For future me or anyone else who is doing this, probably try a loctite thread sealant +threadlocker, maybe something like 243. That way its all in one and no mixing two completely different things.


In general, I was surprised at the machinability of the cast iron block. It really wasn't too difficult to drill the hole in the block or cut the threads especially considering I didn't use a tap. I was expecting the metal to be a lot harder.

After draining the oil (onto the floor) The inside looked pretty nice. I think this engine was btwn 100k and 200k kms, probably on the high end of 100k kms.


Removing the old gasket from the 5M pan.


Cleaned off most the rust I could get by hand on the oil pan.


Sprayed the pan black and installed the oil pan back on. Just used a crap ton of black permatex sealant, no gasket, as per discussion on PG 11 of this thread. I didn't have a torque wrench and probably overtightened it so it's probably going to leak.


The few fresh painted parts really contrast the rusty bolts and block and everything else that's rusty.


I was going to take my time how to clean everything really well and paint alot of the parts (like I've been trying to do) but I may start working in mid-june and have to move away (at least, as travel restrictions might allow) so I'm fast tracking a bit starting now. Going to skip alot of the shining steps and just focus on getting it going. I think the only big thing left to do on the engine side is the EGR block off stuff, and maybe the rear main seal since the engine is out. My dad said the timing belt looks new, the car probably wont do enough KM's with this engine to make me worried if he said it's good. Plus any excuse to not touch a crank pulley bolt is good enough for me.

Going to try finishing up the rest of the car's wiring and make sure it's running again with the 5M in the next couple days. Then I might be able to limp the car to our shop then pull the engine and swap it out. After that, I'll probably have to redo a bit of the engine harness to get the 7M stuff to work, might also have to figure out the distributor/timing stuff as well on the computer side.
 

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Great pix!
I made taps from a bolt B-4. Cut off wheel to make clearance cuts into the threads.Works fine.A higher grade bolt is better for threading.Can't get a tap handle in there in some cases.I have 3/8 " tap adapter sockets,too.The last ones I made were for the differential housing support mounting holes.Can you say CROSS THREADED?I knew that you could.
 

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Forget about that stupid Permatex thread sealant when it comes to oil, at least under pressure. I used it on my oil main galley plug twice and it started leaking within a month each time. I got some Aisin grey RTV from lordco, same stuff Toyota uses at the factory. That should do it.
 
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