Thanks for the heads up on those plugs guys. Unfortunately it's too late for me to go back and do that since I've again left the country.
Haha, small update.
This engine never came with a thermostat or thermostat housing cap. Luckily due to my hoarding, I was able to find the old thermostat cover from years ago and saved some headache there. Put a new thermostat in the 7M.
Spent a lot of time breaking my fingers trying to clean gunk out of the engine surfaces but eventually gave up
Also new i had some old valve covers that I failed at painting laying around, I don't even remember why. I paint stripped them since I thought the raw aluminum would look cool.
Apparently the spark plug valley cover is actually meant to be a sealing part and is usually fitted with some o-rings. I didn't have anything laying around and didn't want to look for a new part so I just installed it with a little bit of sealant. I've seen some people get away with removing it and using copper o-rings but we already know i do dumb things because i think it looks cool.
Didn't want to chance this car actually breaking down on the highway and having to tow it so just towed it. Aptly labelled tow truck. ("JUNK CARS") lol
Also while the engine was on the stand, we fixed some shredded exhaust stud threads, put new intake/exh. gaskets. I made block off plates for the EGR stuff and also fit the 550CC injectors that were on the 5m that was in the car. This was mostly so I wouldn't have to cut all the injector connectors off AGAIN. The 7m had the yellow newer style connector which i believe are around ~300cc. Would've been more than enough but it was going to be a pain to reconnect everything.
Around this time i started my new job remotely so I got pretty busy. My dad completed most the mechanical side of the swap. dont really have any pictures of this but here is the engine in its new home.
Here's where it got a bit tricky. I was kinda hoping that the microsquirt would just plug into everything and I'd live happily ever after. Unfortunately that wasn't the case. Most things were fine. MAP was independent of the car. The injector setup was carried over. Luckily the TPS had the same connector and worked just fine with the MS. The coolant temp sensor is on the other side (the whole thermostat is) so that needs to be re-routed in the harness( i didnt do it yet which is why the harness runs over the engine). I used an ignition lead for a 7m that was long enough to cross the entire engine, had to do a bit of triming to get the end to fit in the ignitor i had. The distributor is the biggest culprit here though, which i kind of expected. Along side with being on the other engine, it also has a 4 pin compared to the 5m's 3 pin connector.
This caused alot of headscratching. I thought I had the distributor wired correctly and we were able to get the car sort of running by spraying starter fuel. But the fuel pump wouldnt run with the car running on its own. We tried jumping the fuel pump and forcing it to run but still had nothing. My dad guessed the distributor was the issue and the car was blocking itself from fueling itself or something like that. Can't remember the details super well anymore.
So i dug a little deeper, tried to learn a bit about distributors. Eventually retained a basic enough understanding to make a guess that turned out be right.
Basically, by inspecting the timing wheel in the 5M and 7M and the wiring diagrams for both you can see that the 5m has a two tooth wheel and 1 hall effect sensor. The 7m has a single tooth wheel and two hall effect sensors. There's a couple pictures you can find on the forum, one was pretty good where a guy ran a 5M on 7M electronics by grinding a gear off his wheel and installing a second secoind hall effect into the distributor.
By comparing the wiring on the MS that I had already hooked up to the 5M distributor and also writing out what all the pins on the 7m were for, i got this little sheet of paper.
So the 5M has White-G- [i think thats ground but cant remember right now], Red-hall effect, and black- crank speed. I had these hooked up to the VR1 on the MS where the Red + on the VR1 went to the crank speed (black) and black - on the VR1 went to G-. VR2 had Red+ go to the hall effect and the black- tied into the same G- as the VR1 black-. This was a bit different than in the guide i used (flyjums) and allowed me to retain the 3 pin connector.
So basically what I had that was NOT working was that i setup the 7m distributor the same way as i had the 5m and ignored the G2 signal at first because i didnt know what it was. From this, i think the computer the computer was seeing a single tooth and only got signal from the one hall effect sensor but was still reading engine speed correctly. So it was probably tripping out because it would see crank position at half the frequency it was supposed to based on the engine speed (NE). aka im guessing based on engine speed it would calculate 1 revolution but for that same measurement of crank speed it would see half a revolution. So in the picture below, I only had the G1 hall effect hooked up when trying to run the engine.
So after realizing this, I jumped the G2 signal to the same VR2 red+ that the G1 was connected to, which makes the signal appear at the same frequency as the dual teeth, single sensor 5m setup.
Then the car started up right away with no starter fluid or any assists. Anyways, this isn't really groundbreaking information but hopefully it can help someone save a few hours of headscratching if they are this really specific situation lol. There wasn't much info online on setting up a 7mge distributor with standalone computers besides people just saying you can do it.
You'll see in the video link, the engine actually runs nicely but the it keeps cutting out weirdly, ultimately leading to a stall when the person lays off the throttle. Part of that is because i never tuned the idle screw and it was probably super low because this engine has an idle air control unit. Later by opening the crap out of the screw and dumping tons of fuel on warmup i was able to get the car to start easily and idle for a few seconds but that weird cutting out issue kept occuring. This was a weird problem that persisted from the old engine so I figured it must be an issue with the ECU. I just recently loaded the base map from flyjum and that's what the engine was running on. I didn't have issues with that before so my guess was that it was wiring or that I damaged the ecu somehow. I double checked the grounds and the ecu power, tried putting those directly to known well powers and grounds (battery) but still didnt have any luck.
That's about when i left for california for work. So unfortunately, who knows when I'll be back to finish working on the thing.
Magically, when my dad started the car to move it around this week (by jamming the throttle open with a screwdriver or something since the throttle isnt hooked up to the pedal...), the problem seemed to dissapear. So maybe the car just hates me.
Alot of work is still left to do, like the power steering needs to be hooked up, I need a throttle linkage, and the harness needs to be rerouted a bit and tucked away. I think i also need to get a new upper rad hose since I just janked something on there. I think my dad might do a bit of that stuff since he's more familiar with that side of the work. Depends if he can spare some time working on the landcruiser.
I'll probably be keeping an eye out for some oem 7m electronics in the meantime incase that weird issue pops up again. I'll also try to keep an eye out for local california MKII events, maybe meet some of you guys that i haven't yet for real
I think what you are describing is megasquirt pains 101, good on ya for working through em. First step of any standalone is run through every sensor and their settings and confirm they're working as expected. When you've got megasquirt all set up for one specific function it can be hard to get free of that.
Are you going to take this thing to cali eventually? Lots of great roads all over that state, though you may have issues getting that thing registered with your mods. They're super strict about certain things, so much so that I don't even bother learning what all the rules are honestly.
Crazy seeing you build this car from just getting a license in high school, going off to university, to college grad and all that goes with it.
Looks like its coming along nice! A 7mge with standalone and a header is lots of fun in a mk2. Certainly will be a less problematic setup then a turboed 5m or 7m. I forgot why you moved away from the 2jzge? It was a vvti one you had wasn't it? Thats certainly a harder swap.
California, jealous! Well, maybe not just right I'd want to be there, but I've wanted to live down there forever, for like a year or something anyways. This where you are going to endup or some kind of short term thing?
Thanks guys, I don't think I'll be taking the car down to cali. I think registration and smog will be too painful and it would probably be easier to buy one here. Although prices have gone up which is good I guess (saw one with 340,000 miles asking $5k). I have been keeping an eye out in my spare time, haha. I'll get back to it someday, maybe if I can figure a relatively painless way to get it to california I'll look into it.
VVTi was the main reason I moved away from the 2jz, I got a pretty good deal on the 7m w/ wiring harness and everything and I already had the exhaust, etc working so was minimum effort.
I'll be in California for atleast the next handful of years for work most likely. When I'm home on holidays I'll try to work on the Supra as time allows.
In the meantime, this is my new daily driver for the foreseeable future. A 95 5 spd M3. Bonus pics of my ikea haul, can't fit quite as much as the supra hatch but didn't do a bad job. I almost bought a newer car (~2012 ish mustang) but my old car love kicked in before it was too late. It leaks fluids from multiple places but nothing mission critical and has been reliable for the last couple of months.