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Yeah be careful with those interior side brake fluid leaks. The LType I was restoring had that and the fluid and resulting rust went right thru the floor and into the rail underneath. Made a real mess. I documented how I fixed it in the build thread for that LType.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Im in the dmv area. The parts car is @ a junkyard called "banks auto salvage" It's right off route 234 in Manassas.
Im not sure what you will find on the poor thing, it has had a lot of stuff stripped, but @ddd223 said it would have a lot of rare parts on it, so give it a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
@suprafiend

I'm hoping that hasnt happened to mine, but I'm willing to bet the old cylinder was leaking brake fluid into the cabin for at least 3-5k miles, doesnt look to good in terms of a minimally rusted floorpan.
 

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Nice, I'm right inside the beltway so I can check that out sometime. I need some random things. I also found someone on craigslist who says he has a ton of parts cars up in WV. When you say cars and coffee did you go to Katies?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I wish I could go to Katies, this is a Sunday Cars and Coffee, near Dulles Landing.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Ok, one more picture-less update, I went ahead and took the car to an exhaust shop to fix a leak in between the high flow cat provided by raptor racing, and the collector in front of it. Somehow I left with the leak still there, but I am now catless, the pops and crackles are almost good enough to ignore the exhaust leak... almost. Additionally, my fluid in the clutch master has turned into a dark grey, and probably needs a bleeding in the next couple of days (after only 2 weeks the fluid has darkened). I have lost no fluid as of yet so that is a plus I suppose. And now at highway speed I have begun to notice a faint buzzing sound. Almost as if I was riding on some mudterrain tires. Im not sure if the bf goodrich t/a tires are suppose to sound like that, but regardless the noise is still there.



Here is a short list I have compiled with respect to the known problems the car has, I will make an annotation next to each problem categorizing it in terms of a "long term goal" or "short term goal". If that makes sense.

#1: No A/C, the compressor look relatively new, but the system wont hold a charge/blows hot air *short term
#2: excessive positive camber in the front wheels *short term
#3 : The car tends to wander to the right, causing me to clock the steering wheel toward 11 o' clock *short term
#4: possible water leakage into the passenger compartment *short term
#5: excessive body roll *long term
#6: After engaging high beams, the interior lights, and rear exterior lights go out *long term
#7 Steering wheel/ steering column squeaks periodically, when turning. *long term
#8 Car consumes a moderate amount of oil every so often (~1 quart per 1,000 miles) *long term
#9 Raptor Racing Exhaust appears to hang lose and bangs on the undercarriage during hard cornering or severe bumps *long term
#10 Rust Rust Rust *long term
#11 Car has a slight misfire/ stumble at idle *long term

And that's about it for the notable issues, the rest of the problems are akin to a car that hasnt seen much usage in the past couple of years, and should be solved with more general tlc.

Hopefully by tomorrow (and if not tomorrow, then Monday) I should have some pictures/videos describing/ showcasing the issues. Im hoping I didnt get in over my head on this one, the end goal is to have the car in the best shape possible for next summer.

~Until next time~
 

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HOLY CRAP! It's a long list!
A/C probably has a leak that you have not found,yet.
the front wheels positive camber is a weird issue. Usually we complain of negative camber on our cars.
The camber/caster MIS alignment CAN be a cause of a slight pull to the right,especially if you have to hold the steering wheel to the 11 O'CLOCK position!!!!! It may be caused by excessive toe-in,you know.

Lightly drag your bare hand *lightly* across the tread of your tire and see if it feels different dragging it IN or OUT. It should feel the same going IN or OUT.

Coolant leakage to the passenger floor well! Oh shit,I hope the heater core is NOT leaking!!!!
IF your A/C is working at all,make sure that the drain for the evaporator drain tube is NOT plugged up.

Ignore #6 for now.
#7: Check that the plastic surround is not touching the steering wheel AND that the horn ring under the steering wheel is well lubricated without POOP in there.
#8:
The oil leaks out or is it burned?
You may have less oil consumption with a "heavier" weight of oil,if it's just blowing past the rings or the valves. Summer oil is always heavier than my winter oil.

#11: Could be a LOT of issues. Plug wires or a fouled sparkie'.TPS,possibly. The plug boots DO pull out of the sparkies,sometimes,but it will be worse under acceleration!
Lack of use will usually cause fuel issues. Rust inside the gas tank and plugged up filters/fuel pick up socks.
#5:
Check to see if you have worn out control arm/sway bar bushings,weak front struts.

You have enough posts to supply us with photos,if you use Imgur or other hosting sites. Photobucket is TOAST for 3rd party postings.:SM130 (1):

The clutch master cylinder should NOT get a dark color so quickly! Bleed it again. DOT 3 attracts moisture and that causes rust in the system. It's the iron in the lines and inside the master that rusts because of the nature of the the DOT 3. No need for DOT 4 at all.

I have tried to reduce the air contamination of the DOT 3 fluid in my power brake master cylinder by placing a desiccant bag on top with a "baggie" over it. The jury is still out on that one.

We will be here with help full ways to get you Supra happy and satisfying for you,GRAV.

Dave.(One of the old guys).
 

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Hey grav, is this the auto place you were talking about
14843 Dumfries Rd, Manassas, VA 20112?
Google says they're perma closed, but if you went it I'll go check it out sometime.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
@texasissouth, yes it is on Dumfries Rd, it was open when I went (even though it says perma-closed). So it could be a 50/50 hit or miss situation.



@ddd228 I believe it was water from the rain leaking into the cabin, not coolant (sorry if I didnt make it clear enough). I am also tempted to ignore the misfire at idle (it sounds like a small "puff" of air), since it goes away while driving, that may or may not bite me in the ass later on.

On the topic of oil burning, it does in fact appear to burn it off, since I can find any leaks whatsoever. I also cant see any blue smoke on start up or high revving, so I am at a loss for the moment. I have been "adding" 10w30 as the car lunches oil, every now and then, I believe over the span of 2months-ish it took a quart of 10w30. My next oil change should be coming up soon, 1 quart of oil for 3k miles isnt bad (I guess?).

The car has sat for a time of 5 years( give or take 1-2 years) under one of the owners. So I will take a peek at the fuel filter and see what's up.

My front struts oscillate when hitting bumps on the highway, but they dont bounce freely like a blown strut, so the plan is to buy some new struts and lowering springs. I forgot to mention the "reverse rake" the car has, the front sits pretty high, and the rear sits a little lower. Since these cars have the camber change tied with ride height, I believe the front is sitting a little higher than usual, and the rear is a little lower than stock, hence the positive camber up front, and negative camber out back.

I'm gonna go ahead and take a peek at the horn ring, I had it all apart and I still heard the squeak/rubbing/grating sound on the inside of the steering column shroud, but I am not sure.

Thanks again for the wealth of information @ddd228. Everyone on the forum is super positive and helpful, it's amazing in my opinion.
 

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Your oil consumption is tolerable. Maybe 15W-50 for the summer heat.
The POOF at idle may be an unhappy intake valve.
You may change your ride height in the rear with spacers. I used 3/4" heater hose on the lowest coils.My rear spring seats were TOAST.Remove shock,let suspension hang,lube up about a foot of hose and shove it on. THAT changes the rear toe in,so an alignment is suggested.
Front sits too high? Fixable.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Ok, Im sorta reviving this somewhat dead thread.
So as of now, some things happened........ The power steering pump seemingly took a huge crap and started whining and screaming 24/7, so I finally got frustrated enough to try and "flush" it to remove any air bubbles, whatever happened made the issue worse, much worse. The pump started to grind and make horrendous sounds, akin to gears grinding. I felt the steering wheel vibrate harshly etc. So I just decided to cut the power steering belt, I have been driving around like that since 9/30/2017. Additionally I finally might have figured the oil burning/leaking out!. A friend was following me, as I followed another friend, on a "spirited cruise". He noted that after downshifting gears, blue smoke is emitted from the exhaust, only when engine braking at a high rpm as well. After I get back on the gas, a final puff of blue smoke is seen, followed by a clear exhaust. This was noted after I did an oil change with castrol 10w30 high mileage oil. The oil consumption seems to be wayyy down, I havent seen a notable difference in a couple weeks.

I have noted some new things after driving with the windows up since it has gotten colder. Since the windows are up I can hear a lot more of the mechanical noises emitted at speed. For instance, at around 3,000 rpm in 5th gear, there is a howling noise, it sounds like a bad wheel bearing, and the noise has a corresponding vibration that can be felt in the steering wheel. It doesn't affect driving, and if I depress the clutch, and let the rpm's subside, the noise is still there.
So I think the noise is either a bad wheel bearing(s) or something to do with the bf goodrich tires, there tread pattern is funky, but many people with ma61 supras have them and I havent seen any complaints on reviews of the tire, so Im gonna shoot a guess that something in the front end isnt right.

Sorry for not having any related pictures right now, but I am at a cross roads of looping the lines on the rack, or buying a new power steering pump. Either way I will try and make those posts very picture heavy.

Thanks for reading!
 

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The low rumble noise may be a crunchy carrier bearing OR a bad wheel bearing. Maybe in the rear.
Could be a bad FRONT wheel bearing talking to you.The outer one goes South, first.

If you choose to replace the PS pump DO NOT get an A1 Cardone pump.
The pulley is easy to change over. Any other rebuilt PS pump is OK,IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Welp, looks like I should have listened to @ddd228 before I bought a reman pump. I purchased an A1 Cardone pump, and what do you know? I have absolutely no power steering. The belt is connected, and I sometimes here a light whine coming from the pump at full steering lock. After many hours of bleeding the pump and a horrendous whine coming from the pump, the conclusion was the steering rack needs a flush. To which I am somewhat confused, the fluid is coming back slightly dirty, and extremely bubbly. Even after 2 hours-ish of trying to bleed from pump's reservoir the bubbles are still there. I intially thought the pump wold only work at higher engine speeds, because when I would take a corner at 30-40 mph the steering would get extremely light, almost like I had power steering back. But I eventually figured out that the car was actually understeering. Since the front tires have no grip during the understeer, it makes sense that the wheel would get light. :duh: Actually feeling remedial right now, but whatever I guess.

Next up on the never ending list of things wrong with the car: I am under the impression that the steering rack is loose in it's perch/mounting area. Or the tension rods are toast. either way I hear a light clinking noise that sounds unfortunately similar to when I had lost a steering rack bushing. The story behind that is, the engine was puking oil from every orfice around that time, and since the previous owners (and myself) drove around like that, the bushing eventually slipped/squirted out after hitting a nasty pothole.

Lastly, I have no clue as to why this is happening, but when I reverse, the steering is considerably light. It feels like I have power steering. And knowing that I absolutely do not have power steering, this troubles me. Additionally, seconds after backing up with light steering, when I try to advance forward, it is right back to cranking the steering wheel.

Some final words, the steering isnt as heavy as when I first cut the belt on the dying power steering pump, in fact it is a slight bit less effort, but still nowhere near the same as when I had power steering. I have been knocking around the idea of needed a new steering rack, but I would hate to throw money at parts before I actually find the solution (as if I had any money to begin with lol). I will try to keep this thread more updated, and as usual I will try to make each post more picture heavy.

Thanks for reading!
 

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If your pump is still making a lot of noise, then it is not bled properly and you have air in your rack and it will produce unpredictable steering effort results like you are having. The proper procedure for bleeding is to jack the front end up, and turn the wheel back and forth from extent to extent (with the wheels on), until the bubbles and unusual noises from the pump go away. This usually doesn't take more then 10 minutes. Do not let the fluid level get too low in the reservoir while doing this as you will reintroduce air into the system, and keep in mind the fluid level drops when the motor is running. You check the final level of the reservoir with the motor off and the car level of course. Also insure your belt is tight but not too tight, you should be able to just fold it over by hand (with the motor off of course) 90degrees at the center of its longest run.

To be honest I've never just worn out a steering rack and had the power steering disappear. Besides that they seem to last forever, they usually lose their seals and start puking fluid or start making horrible grinding noises when they are actually gone (in my experience).
 

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Discussion Starter #36
@ Suprafiend,
Firstly, thanks a whole bunch for the reply, I am extremely grateful. Secondly, the pump has now gone silent. No noises what so ever period. It is also below 20 degrees outside, so one of the belts is squealing extremely badly. I might be completly wrong here, but I am guessing the "mechanic" who swapped in the refurbished pump did not tighten the belt/put enough tension on it. Either way, I will give the proper way a shot in a couple weeks. In the meanwhile, I hope driving with the pump not providing power steering will not kill it.
As a side note, Im pretty happy to hear about the durability of the rack, and about the chance of my power steering still being in good condition. Hopefully that takes car of the problem once and for all.

Thanks again!
 

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NP. If the pump has gone silent, either it bled itself from use (which certainly does happen), or the belt is so loose its not even spinning the pump anymore. But if its squealing all the time, that could easily be your problem. Its actually a little tricky to tighten the PS belt on these cars as there is no proper service connection to attach a breaker bar to on the pump. Most peeps and mechanics will try and wedge a breaker bar underneath it to get enough tension, but I find that method unreliable and frustrating. All I do is put a 14mm wrench on the furtherest out case bolt (its under the pulley) on the pump assembly and leverage the pump with that. It will of course tighten that bolt more then you would like, but there is a sweet spot where the bolt isn't tightened to the point of snapping but you can get just enough tension on the belt.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Ok so, a small update...
I visited a mechanic who has fixed my family's cars on many occasions. He offered to diagnose the no ps issue for free so I went ahead and took him up on that offer. After lifting the hood and seeing the fluid that has accumulated on and around the ps pump and resoivoir, he asked me to fire up the car and move the steering wheel back and forth while he looked at the fluid reservoir with the cap off. The verdict was that rack has gone bad and is forcing fluid back up through the pump and it is leaking out of the top of the reservoir. I have never ever heard of this, but I am extremly inexperienced, so at the end of the day, it seems like the car needs a new rack. Most likely I will select a duralast refurbished rack from autozone and replace the old rack with that. As of right now, I parked the car so I dont damage the new ps pump anymore, as I cant imagine having fluid forced out of the reservoir can be good for the pump. Will update as the situation progresses.

As a side note, the mechanic did say what ever pushes out on the inner tie rods is damaged or broken. So I am assuming that is the actual rack that gets moved by the pinion gear.
 

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End of Fun

Well, 3 months ago was the best and worst time of the year.
On the upside, finally revamped the suspension (sorta): Secured stance Xr1 coilovers, t3 shorter steering knuckles, heim joint tie rod ends by t3 aswell. Slapped some neat 70s Vintage Appliance wheels in 14x7 ~ -12, got an alignment etc. etc.

On the downside, approximately 1 week after I finally got my junk off jackstands, I went on a cruise, and promptly hit a deer.

Photos dont look so bad in hindsight, but it still felt like a crushing defeat.


** guess I should learn not tot take crash photos in portrait mode hah.
 

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That does not seems too terrible dammage.
All those parts are bolts on, just have to source them.
 
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