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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I occasionally have people asking for VE and spark table numbers, after start enrichment, crank settings, etc., etc.

I've been very slow to respond (sorry, I'm a lazy-ass), but I'm going to try to be pro-active in the future. PM's only inform a limited amount of viewers (the one's who ask for the info), so why not have this info readily available?

For those who want to share their progress (or problems), please post in the following format:

Engine type: i.e., 6M-GE
Ignition style: list its ignition trigger (distributor, Cam Pos Sensor, Crank Pos Sensor, etc), ignition source (MSD, stock ignitor/coil, coil packs, COP, vb921's, etc.), and any VR conditioners (HEI module, Bosch, module, onboard, etc.)
Fuel system: fuel pump(s), injector quantity, size, and resistance, and any other contributing factor regarding fuel
Periferal sensor types/part numbers: MAP/MAF, TPS, Coolant, IAT, and EGO (wideband, narrowband, or none)
MS hardware type: v2.2, v3, etc. (include and addon boards and special board configurations like jumpers and relays)
Software: Megatune version, extra firmware, and any other associated code
Other mods that may further affect MS: non-factory throttlebody, water/meth/alch. injection, engine stroking/destroking, different cams, additional injectors, cold start idle motors/valves, etc

Display screenshots of (if convenient) or describe settings, VE and Spark maps, and configurations in Megatune. You'll find that people choose very different settings to get their specific applications to work well with MT.
Include all periferal sensor readings: coolant temp, intake air temp, EGO, TPS, RPM's, MAP readings, injector PW and duty cycles, etc.
Datalogs are nice, too ;)

Describe any environmental conditions (ambient and intake air temps, barometric pressure or elevation, etc.)



Remember; more information you volunteer offers a greater chance for your situation to be rectified. Let us know what has worked for you and what hasn't. What seems to be insignificant may be detrimental to a future problem, like resistor values, relay setup, wire sizes, etc.

Also remember to fall back on the megasquirt forums http://www.msefi.com Those guys constantly see new problems and promptly try to correct them.
 

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If you want to create a post with important MS info I can go ahead and sticky it if there is a demand.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Here's my latest setup:


Late 2007 compilation - 6M-GTE

MS v2.2 board w/*error daughterboard
MT version 2.25p1 w/extra code 029y4

Ignition: distributor, msd6a/accel coil, 36-1 wheel for trigger
Fuel: 720 cc injectors, walbro 255
EGO: LC-1 wideband

Mods: turbo

Settings/Maps:





































 

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I have recently swapped in an 86 Cressida 5mge from a 5me (ADM). The car is running on the stock 5mge ECU but as soon as Im happy that it is setup correctly and I have done some "measuring" ie Gtech tests and a few lap times from my local track I will be installing the Megasquirt I have sitting on my computer desk.

1983 Supra (Australian spec) with 5mge (1986 Cressida GLXi with knock sensor)
Megasquirt v3.0 main board
Megasquirt 2 daughter card running 2.6 code

The engine will remain stock as in no performance modifications, (will drop in a worked 2jzge in about 12 months time)

My plan is to use the stock distributor sensors for my ignition trigger and run the coil directly (vb921 circit). Is it going to be that simple or will I find problems with the stock gear ?

Cheers, Tim :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I can sadly report that I had my car finaly started and idling with megasquirt II V3, but due to a costly electrical fire at the front, now at a dead stop and tearing out all existing wiring and in process of painless wiring.....
Man, that sucks (well congrats on the MS success).

Expand on your v3 board configuration; let everyone know what you had do to the board and what extra circuits you had to build.

I'm thinking of converting to a v3 board and running vb921's, but it would be nice to see how it's working for others
 

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I can sadly report that I had my car finaly started and idling with megasquirt II V3, but due to a costly electrical fire at the front, now at a dead stop and tearing out all existing wiring and in process of painless wiring.....
Damn, thats no good with the fire, but atleast the car was running. What did you do for your ignition trigger ?
 

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so nwho exactly has an megasquirt installed and running on there supra?
Well, it's not a Supra, but I have a running MS on my RTE. The engine feels much stronger than with the stock EFI, and since I will be able to control bigger injectors, should have some much better dyno numbers come spring.

I plan to run my 7M swap project on the stock ecu at first, but MS and EDIS will go in as soon as possible.
 

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so nwho exactly has an megasquirt installed and running on there supra?
I have two M sixes running with MS. A 5M-E and a 5M-GE. My friend Nikwal also runs MS fuel only on his 5M-GE.

Crank trigger (hall sensor + magnets) on the 5M-E. On the -GE I tried first to interface with the 3.0 built in VR circuitry against the -82 distributor but it didn't work out well at low rpms. No patience to experiment with the VR stuff so I switched to the proven crank trigger setup and all is golden.

Stock ECU innards replaced by MS on the 5M-E, stock harness used for everything except the crank trigger. On the 5M-GE I replaced the stock harness connector for an MS DB37 connector. (Pros: Faster install Cons: More difficult to revert to stock)

Both setups use an external bosch single coil module (-124) for spark + the distributor for spark distribution. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Crank trigger (hall sensor + magnets) on the 5M-E.
Nice! I'd like to see the magnets, and know how they were fastened.




Edit**
Nevermind, found it. I'm curious of the details on this procedure. How many magnets total (I guess 3 for two crank revolutions = 6 ignition events)? What size magnets; degrees from TDC; etc.?

 

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id i did the hall sensor with magnets, id recomend doing them om the flywheel. and moutn the sensor in the metal plate that bolts to the block before the flywheel. seen it done on a 7m and man is it clean. also its a larger diameter so far more accurate. props for doin it on the crank pulley though, i know that wasnt easy.
 

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Is anyone running MS using the stock CPS?? I am going to attempt this on my 3s-gte in a couple months and was curious if anyone else has gone in this direction. I have a scope so I am going to put in the hours and try my damndest to get it to work. My biggest reason is that I want to go to 2zz coils shortly after getting the MS up and running.
 

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id i did the hall sensor with magnets, id recomend doing them om the flywheel. and moutn the sensor in the metal plate that bolts to the block before the flywheel. seen it done on a 7m and man is it clean. also its a larger diameter so far more accurate. props for doin it on the crank pulley though, i know that wasnt easy.
That's a bad idea IMHO. Flywheels get hot and magnets are notorious for demagnatizing at relatively low temp. The correct way off the flywheel is to use a sensor that picks up the teeth of the flywheel. A lot of production diesel engines use this method.

I'm kind of curious in that pic above why it looks like the magnets don't appear to be at TDC?
 

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well ij on supramania did his that way. hasnt had any issues with it, though he has a twin plate clutch and also used larger magents then that.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Is anyone running MS using the stock CPS?? I am going to attempt this on my 3s-gte in a couple months and was curious if anyone else has gone in this direction. I have a scope so I am going to put in the hours and try my damndest to get it to work. My biggest reason is that I want to go to 2zz coils shortly after getting the MS up and running.
I plan to on the 2jz; I'm going to try the 7m-gte cps with the dual wheel option of Extra
 

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I am kicking around a few different methods using the toyota CPS 12+1. I am going to run the dizzy on the 3s at first and am going to try the 4 teeth one wheel only method. Eventually I am going to go with 2zz COP and am going to try to add the cam reset signal using one of the VR sensors. From what I read COP has to have dual wheel. 2 teeth per crank revolution for a 4 banger with a 720 degree reset. So if i leave the 4 teeth on the main wheel and add one VR for the cam reset it should work. Let me know if I am totally off my rocker in my thinking.
 

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Yep 3 magnets. 40-50 degress BTDC, 120degrees apart. Could also be put at TDC and MS configured for "next cylinder mode" (120degrees? :)).

3x3x1mm neodymium magnets. Neodymium magnets are apparently a bit sensitive to heat, max ~120degrees celsius. But I don't expect that kind of temperatures at the pulley and it has worked fine several years now.

Yes it is a bit fiddly to align the magnets accurately. I have also marked out new TDC's for cyls 2-5, 3-4 so I can verify how many degrees "timing run out" I have between the cylinders. (+-1 degree at the moment with my crude tooling.)

My latest implementation below. Magnets sunk into the pulley, adds a bit more confidence that they wont come loose if I get crap between the engine and the pulley. Glued with JB Weld style glue.


I use an Allegro A3240 hall-sensor. I can recommend using a small capacitor for powersupply filtering near the hall. Modify the MS that it has +5v wired to the current limiting resistor for the optocoupler. Feed GND to the optocoupler from the hall out. Observe that the hallsensor is polarized! A good idea would be to have a spare sensor with an LED to be able to confirm magnet polarization before applying the glue. ;)
 
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