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I think I figured it out maybe. William might be right with the signal shield wire.
I used a little cool gadget from my granddad that he used when
He worked for quest. It measures "noise interference" in wires.
Tested it at the distributor on the tag wire and it had .08 signal interference
. At the fire wall going into the diypnp the signal interference jumps up to .745.
I don't know what the measurements are exactly but I'm going to get shielded wire and see
If it changes anything. But according to my granddad anything over .340 is considered extreme noise interference. Will update later tonight as i ran out of time Due to going to work
 

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I think I figured it out maybe. William might be right with the signal shield wire.
I used a little cool gadget from my granddad that he used when
He worked for quest. It measures "noise interference" in wires.
Tested it at the distributor on the tag wire and it had .08 signal interference
. At the fire wall going into the diypnp the signal interference jumps up to .745.
I don't know what the measurements are exactly but I'm going to get shielded wire and see
If it changes anything. But according to my granddad anything over .340 is considered extreme noise interference. Will update later tonight as i ran out of time Due to going to work
Makes you wonder how toyota made it work so well. It is 30 year old after all. Re run it with the DIY shielded wire like William suggests. I am not aware of anybody who continued to have issues after that.
 

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I think it's because Toyotas computer looks for a different signal strength. From past megasquirts systems I've worked with they look for a more sensitive signal. It's possible that ms is more sensitive for a signal than the stock Ecu. That's my guess. But not sure yet. Haven't looked into that part of my theory
 

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Well I ordered a 10 ft piece from DIY so when it gets here ill put it in and see if it makes a difference. Was also thinking perhaps more resistance needs to be used on the board. Just another possibility that could exist. Perhaps there needs to be more resistance on he board for the signal to be better.
 

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ok well i put in the shielded wire in this morning. tried getting a tach signal and still failed to achieve anything. i did however have some weird spikes up to 137 rpms but only for a second. wondering if maybe i need to adjust the VR in the distributor. ill be messing with it a littlemore before i go to work but i was adjusting the resistor for maybe 15 minutes with no luck while cranking. even running a trigger logger while cranking and adjusting the resistor i still failed to get signal.

Scott did you ever adjust the vr in the distributor before you switched to COP's when you were having trouble getting a tach signal?
 

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hmm well ill try it out in the morning and see where i can get at. i just emailed matt my datalogs and hopefully he might be able to shed some light on it. only thing though is that you were able to get a tach signal at one point cause you drove your car before you switched to your COPsetup. maybeit would just be lessofa headache to just get a crank wheel tooth lol :duh::32:
 

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hmm, makes me wonder what the trigger voltage is. tried doing some research on the Nippondenso ignitions and havent had much luck other than the general 24 tooth vr distributor knowledge. tried to find the trigger voltage the stock ecu uses but have had no luck on it. would you be able to pull any of that information up at work?
 

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yeah i figured, not going to be a problem for me though now sorry jose lol, i just got a nice deal on some CP's and a 4'' 36-1 tooth wheel with an ford EDIS6 so ill just be switching over to that so i dont have to worry about the vr distributor anymore. plus it will open up more room for the FFIM
 

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David.... let me know what the process is that you go through to get the EDIS6 hooked up.... If you can do a write up on it that would be awesome. Some stuff it still seems I need people to talk to me like I am a 5 yr old... Seeing as though I can and most likely will be going that route.
 

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checked my car... I AM getting rpm signal on my laptop in tuner studio, and in the data log I am getting the 2 tooth vr signal. I AM NOT getting an RPM signal at the dash board and the car is not firing up. I am working along at the moment so I will have to wait till my wife gets home to turn the key why I check with the timing light... Will the not getting RPM signal at the dash keep the car from firing? Or is the mechanical timing possibly off? Ideas...anyone?

**Well... I just hooked up my timing light and held it in the driver seat while I was cranking and I am not getting anything at all... All the above is still true... I am still not convinced that the fixed resistor that was put in instead of the adjustable pot was the answer... Is anyone or has anyone run the DIYPNP with a fixed resistor for the VR sensor?? I know when mine was running, as poorly as it was, it was with the adjustable pot...**
 

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i plan on doing a writeup on my edis setup once i get that part moving, ill take lots of pics
 

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Well I am back at it again. I have been talking back and forth with Russ at DIYAutotune (Although he hasn't responded as of late). I am currently at a spot where I am getting a strong cam signal at the Tunerstudio dash but not at the cars dash board. There of course is the fact that I now have a fixed resistor in my DIYPNP instead of the variable to get the signal to the cars dash.

So after a a few emails, Russ brought up that the ignition signal to the igniter goes to the IGT wire, and asked where the IGN1 from the main board was connected to the jumper board. I, after verifying with what has been posted on the forum as well as what is posted on DIYs website for assembly found that I am consistent with the connection of IG1 (I didn't see an IGN1) to the C3 on the jumper. I attempted to trace on the board where it went out into the harness and I even checked resistance just in case I wasn't seeing the tracer on the board. I was unable to find a connection to the harness from IG1.

Looking at the service manual, I have a pin on the harness/ecu labeled as igniter (iGf) which when looking into the ECU connector in the center 18 pin connector is at the top row second in from the right. This pin seems to lead to B11, which I have nothing connected to from the jumper board into the main board. Also consistent with others posts as well as the assembly instructions.

So, from looking at the wiring diagram in the TSRM, it looks like the cars tach gets a feed from both the ECU and the igniter. Is it possible that the ECU should be feeding the igniter through the IG1 to B11 and then the igniter feeding the dash tach? I am thinking that since the igniter and the tach are connected together, the igniter was getting its signal from the dash tash, sort of in a reverse feed. So now that I am not getting the ECU to feed the dash tach since I have the fixed resistor, I am no longer getting a signal to the igniter either. To be honest the TSRM wiring diagrams are pretty crappy and hard to follow, they aren't like the Honda motorcycle wiring diagrams I am used to. Is it possible that the igniter was getting its signal through the dash tach and not the ECU... ever?

It has been a few weeks since I have heard anything from DIYAutotune and I would really like some other opinions on this before I try to jumper anything and fry something.
 

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I rechecked my readings and I am getting a signal out of C3 to the IGt wire going to the ingitor.... so I'm back to not knowing what the hell is going on. The IGf apparently is the signal for the stock ECU that there is a misfire and that isn't used by the DIYPNP...
 
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