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Mike,

The car looks fantastic with the new wheels. With that burbling V8, an intimidating car has become even more so. Since you were dealing with Malloy, I hesitated to provide unsolicited input regarding your set-up. I'm very glad everything worked out for you. Your set-up is not too much different from mine (18 x 8.5 +13/245/35/18, front; 18 x 10.5 +9 (IIRC)/295/30/18, rear. As a result, we did not have to make any body mods with the exception of a very small piece of metal underneath the flare, and only on one side. Our rear offsets are very close, so the half-inch difference in width probably makes all the difference.

You have a truly an amazing car!!



 

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Thanks Ken! I definitely referred alot to your fitments and write up in your thread to help make my decisions, making sure to compensate for my slight differences in track widths with the offsets. I was previously running 18x10.5 +15mm rears (with a 295/30 tire) with good clearance on my custom rear suspension system, I sometimes rubbed the tire on the fiberglass flares on either sides under hard acceleration. The new setup at 11 inches wide resulted that +11mm was the closest offset I could get with the WORK setup and retain their lowest profile center disk to maximize the outer lip width. I basically moved my wheel setup inboard by 4mm, then proceeded to add 1/4" to both the inner and outer barrels/lips, so clearance that I use to have shrank very quickly. The modifications needed to the fenders and flares and inner tub metal was relatively easy, and the results of the tire placement looks great in my opinion. I need to get the car on the road to see how the tires move dynamically under load and after some heat gets into the tires and causes them to grow a bit.

-Mike
 

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Love the pics man, looks killer. Somethin about WILWOOD and WORK lettering right next to each other does it for me. Thanks for keepin us updated here, I know how easy it is to just toss stuff up on instagram and let build threads stagnate(because that is what i've done.)
 

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I've read this thread from start to present and I'm impressed with the amount of work put into this car. It's also cool to see your welding go from "don't look at these" to almost machine quality TIG welds. Well done, beautiful car.
 

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Thats not actually a bad idea. How about a JCCS/SIV combo next year Mike? Any chance you can make it? As long as the dates don't collide again, I should be down for it.
 

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Pretty sure the MK2 Supra isn't eligible for the Touge, too new.
 

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Looks like some slightly newer cars showed up at the last one, but yeah, says pre 1980 for first year. MK1 Supra is eligible. Very cool event, I will have to keep that in mind! I even have something that legit qualifies, bwha haa ha
 

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It says "Continuation models are eligible", and gives an example of a newer RX-7.

No reason a later Supra couldn't go, as the later ones should qualify as a "continuation" model.
 

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No no, they mean generations. The FB RX7 is 100% eligible as the first year of it was 79. The 2nd gen, FC RX7 which came out in 85 is not eligible.
 

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Huh.....Guess I didn't read it close enough.

It's already passed, and I really doubt that I'd drive here from Colorado for it.
 

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Thanks everyone. I definitely need to hit JCCS and Supras in Vegas one of these years, but my work schedule is always a mess around that time with our own car projects.

I have been driving the car a good amount at the end of this season, and the new wheel and tire setup has been phenomenal. The fitment has been perfect dynamically so far with no rubbing or vibrations, and the Pilot Sport tires are amazing in all dirving conditions (no rain yet). I ended up raising the stance slightly before driving on the new setup since I put slightly stiffer springs in the rear and I was afraid they might settle a bit, and I was having a real hard time getting my jack(s) under the front of the car when I needed with the damn low side skirts these past years. I have the car with me in Northern Chicago, and I have been driving it on the nice days to work and back and to shows when they come up.



I also have been hitting up as many car shows as I can. It's always fun to bomb in on the mostly Domestic car shows with the car and listen to people try to figure out what the car actually is. :) Lots of interest and respect from all corners of the car community, which is always great to hear and see. The new wheels really help show the car in the "finished" state I always wanted.



I have made some other changes to the car recently, mostly within the interior. My home brew lower bolster foam refurbishing on my Recaro seats worked great for a while, but it was never **perfect** and the hobby store foam I had used began to break down quickly over the past couple years. I finally just reached out to Capitol Seating in the UK and got new Recaro foams for all 4 lower bolsters, and now the seats are as close to perfect as they come.







My Innovate LM-1 wideband that I have had for the last 10 or so years finally bit the bullet, so I moved on to a newer Innovate LC-2 unit to monitor my AFR and send the reading to my ECU. I designed and 3D printed a simple little mount to place the LC-2 controller where my LM-1 unit use to sit in my glove box brain panel. I was able to snake the cables through the original holes in the panel also so it didn't look too much like an afterthought.







Since I had the LM1's display unit remotely mounted to my custom center console, and I hate round AFR gauges, I decided to make a new center dash panel to house a digital readout for my AFR. I found a company on ebay selling simple small digital square displays to use with innovate widebands, and bought one with red characters. Since I also had a considerable amount of dead space to make up for with the new panel, I decided to get creative with my idle control for the 1UZ. I removed all the idle motor provisions when I first did the 1UZ swap since they were an eye sore on the intake, and have been living with no idle control for years. Long story short, it sucks. Its a pain when the motor is very cold, to the point I usually would put a shim under the throttle stop under the hood to get a bit more air in past the butterfly and let it idle stable when very cold. Being moronically stubborn and not wanting to rip out the entire harness to modify for a remote PWM idle valve (lol, sorry BillM and JohnB), I decided instead to make myself a hillariously over-elaborate remote idle air bypass valve to be controlled manually. I designed and 3d printed a new center panel to not only house the AFR display, but also capture and cleverly actuate a brass ball valve with a turn of a 3D-printed knob, allowing me to let in additional air directly to the intake chamber and bypass the throttle plate to kick up the engine speed when cold. (lol)







I finished the panel in wrinkle black, which really helps hide any of the toolpath lines left from 3d printing the part, and then sanded the raised details to expose the silver plastic for some nice contrast. I was really happy with how it turned out:



I removed the blocking plate from the 1UZ intake that use to have an engine damper mount attached (no longer using the engine damper until I re-design the strut tower brace), and welded some large AN fitting bungs to run twin -10AN fittings and hose to the brass valve. I was worried that the amount of bypass air needed to raise the idle as much as I needed wouldn't be sufficient with a single hose and necked down fitting, so I used two to increase the inlet surface area into the intake. I still don't consider myself an amazing welder, but I have fun with the process and keep getting better with lots of practice.







I ran all the hose and installed the panel, and the interior looks pretty good with everything in its place currently. A damn mouse did feast on my Italian leather Nardi steering wheel while being stored over winter, which needs to be fixed.







The idle valve works amazing to control the idle when cold. I can get a solid 1000RPM idle bump when I open the brass valve completely, which lets the car warm up with no issues when really cold. Certainly not as smart as using a PWM valve like a normal human, but this was certainly a fun project!

-Mike
 

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Bahahaha, I absolutely LOVE the polish and attention given to the low-tech idle control valve.

Looking good as always and thanks for the update, in awe at what you've done with that car.

Cheers,
BillyM
 

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Always good to see the car, and I'm glad to hear you've been driving it.

Mine just developed a crack in the dash that spread from a small one, and now runs all the way from the windshield to the A/C vents on the front of the dash.

Looks like I'll be getting one of those cheap plastic "dash topper" caps real soon now.....

- Jim
 

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Nice to see the updates. Looks awesome as always.
Thanks for addressing the rear end inquiries from some of us. Looking forward to a new setup whenever that may be.
 

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Nice! I hope my LM1 doesn't die, I still rely on that thing pretty heavily. I will just get a LM2 if it dies, but having a permanent mount LC would be nice too.

pssst, your shifter boot slipped off. Missing the ring for it?
 

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Thanks everyone!

Nice! I hope my LM1 doesn't die, I still rely on that thing pretty heavily. I will just get a LM2 if it dies, but having a permanent mount LC would be nice too.
My LM1 was such a great wideband, it always worked wonders for me. It was sad to see it go, but the output reading to both the display and the output to Megasquirt started freezing randomly and would require me to reset the box. It started getting worse over time, to where it wasn't really even doing anything anymore. The LC2 has been solid so far, and the little digital display I got on Ebay is the perfect brightness and refreshes very nice and fast.

pssst, your shifter boot slipped off. Missing the ring for it?
I use to have that rubber corrugated shifter boot I designed in with the new trim ring, but the rubber was so stiff that it was actually making it hard to get into gears in some instances. I took it out because I though it was the main issue with my shifting problems I was having, but it actually turned out to mostly be a disintegrated lower shifter bushing. I snagged an awesome BillyM Shiftgasm kit and replaced all the bushings, and shifting has never been better. I don't think I have ever experienced W58 shifting as it was meant to be this tight, and it is amazing. Thanks again Billy! I haven't put the rubber corrugated boot back in since I still think it was too stiff and was effecting the shifter, so I have been looking for a soft suede or leather boot to put back into the car with the new trim plate you see above. The new trim plate is actually 3D printed and wrinkle painted black as well. I bought a cheapo amazon China "suede" universal shift boot with red stitching to place in the car a month or so back, but it was really poorly made and the opening diameter didn't work for my setup. I still need to find a boot to go back into the car. I might just see if I can snag a mint black OEM shifter boot and retainer ring if I can find one. I know there use to be some re-pops floating around on ebay in the past.

-Mike
 
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