What transmission are you planning on using? Custom exhaust? I'm assuming it's out of a Century. Is it? Did you get the wiring harness and the two ECU's with it? Are you going to run a stand-alone? Is the engine bay large enough? It's hard to tell from the photos how big it is...
Yes the engine only comes in the century and they are only intended for Japan.
There are a handful of engines in AU and maybe 2 century cars, the owner of one would like to get an engine for an MA61 but so far this would be the first.
I have the looms, ecus, throttles and afms, the only thing I need is the accelerator pedal/electrics for the drive by wire, hopefully some other Toyota product will match.
I asked my local dealer about parts before I bid, he tapped a few keys and up she comes on the screen, an exploded view of the engine with part numbers, but he was unsure how cooperative Toyota Japan we would be.
A supra A80 is under construction in Sydney, they bought an auto bell, 10 weeks, because it had to be made (Very low production numbers/hand built engines) however it was $500AUD, about the same as for other Toyota cars.
Trans will be T56 with matching clutch/flywheel from GM 6.0Litre V8 and rear end is a complete Mk3 A70 irs "G" diff already installed.
I think that's the car tat has the mk3 rear suspension in it. At least, that's what the strut towers appear to be from. Had to put the front flair on the rear to accomodate the wider track.
That engine is the SH!T. Even if it experiences a mechanical or electrical failure on one side, you still have a 1JZ with a 6 cylinder air pump along for the ride. I'm pretty sure it should fit as it is as long as a 1JZ and as wide as a 1UZ. It's going to require relocating a lot of things, though. I can't see the pictures here at work, but suppose I will be heading straight home tonight to check this out.
I think there was another person to do the same, if you search you might find the thread. IIRC the suspension was very close to bolt in, would require some relocation brackets or something.
I would have to say the suspension swap is not worth it! so don't do it!!
The V12 swap is just plain silly! so don't do it !!
Body modifications! what's wrong with the way it is?
All of the above = no value for money > meh, whatever.
Sorry guys, just kidding.
I expect the wishbone IRS over the stock one will not provide a worth while performance benefit but is a big strength upgrade in driveline (& is sexy).
And nothing bolts in, there is more work in the towers than the subframe.
As for the V12, much better 6 & 8 cylinder alternatives as far as power and cost effectiveness goes.
This is unique and it is Toyota + Toyota (well er, except for the box)
The pic shows rear fully compressed.
Something else to chew on is the handbrake, console and gearshift has moved 4.5" to the rear, with a shortshift virtical stick.
really? Hmm, I reckon that v12 makes same HP and TQ as a well tuned stock CT26 7mgte -300rwhp/340rwtq or *less. No doubt it will have great throttle response, low end torque, and that exotic v12 exhaust note! Better than 7mgtes or 1/2jzs? Knife to gun fight? Hello? For get about it..:twocents:
I really love it man.. Just had to be the devil's advocate here.
The round gas door avoids the cut out on the flare (which I don't like), the flares are larger and mounted higher = bigger cutout and I like the round.
The subframe rear bolts are out about an 1", redrill, mmm....sounds easy.
Front of subframe has 4 mounts,
2 to be repositioned to align with body's original bolt holes,
2 new mount points in body to align with the 2 remaining subframe bolt holes.
When you get this far you are 30% there (and wondering, do I need this?)
There is a weight difference, but I think the added weight to the rear is not such a bad thing.
This pic shows both assemblies, however like a lot of pics the perspective makes close items look huge.
You can see there is so many more parts than the original set up.
BTW this is out of a MZ21 but AFAIK is identical to MA70.
I actually think the rear end swap is worth it for your car. The low-RPM torque of the 1GZ is really quite amazing, and I don't think a MkII rear end could deal with it. A double-wishbone setup will do a much better job of getting the power down without torching the tyres every time you touch the throttle.
FYI my Century weighs bang on 2 tonnes and will light up the tyres from standstill without stalling up the transmission, just stomping on the throttle. Now imagine it with a manual transmission, shitty trailing-arm suspension, and minus 700kg. Wheelspin city!
Norbie, do you think 3.73:1 final drive should go taller? I can get 3.5:1.
Like, to give it more to bite on.
6th gear is astronomical, I think it's 0.5:1.
1st gear, I will have find out what ratio it is.
Your gearbox is basically a 5-speed with an extra stupidly-overdriven gear, so I don't think you want a very tall final drive ratio. I switched to a 3.58:1 because the V160 is a close-ratio box with a very short first gear, but I don't think yours will be as short. Try it how it is then decide if you want to change it.
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