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Maybe I missed it somewhere, but did you ever do a compression test to see if you blew the head gasket? If you ran the engine long enough without a water pump, chances are you blew the head gasket and you'll be needing to rebuild that too.
 

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Well, first things first, open the radiator cap and see if there's any oil floating on the top or the cap has an oily residue. Also check the oil dipstick, see if there's any milky-looking oil on the stick. If any of these are questionable, a compression test should be the next step.
 

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I'm stealing this from Jocelyn ( @RedP85 ):

For 84+ : front engine to rad:
Large (6 ribs I think) alt & water pump. ((it was verified as 7 ribs in THIS THREAD ))
Standard V belt: water pump + PS
Standard V belt: AC ( and bender ) ((bender means idler))

So, you're probably thinking of the power steering belt if it was a V-belt, the flat 6-rib belt is for alternator and water pump. The A/C does NOT share its belt with any other peripherals.
 

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If you search this forum, there is a link to an online TSRM for the mkii, that should show you how to remove and install the belts. For both the alternator and the power steering pump, they "hinge" for tension, so loosening the bolts on each of them should let them slide forward to release the tension. Note, the alternator has, iirc, a long 10mm bolt that tensions the alternator's belt. Its much easier to understand with the manual.
 

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Yeah, definitely replace all the belts since you'll have it all apart anyways. With how your pulley came apart, I'd think the belts may have gotten damaged and wouldn't re-use them unless you're absolutely positive there's no cuts or nicks or abrasion on them. I use this site for looking up part numbers then cross-reference from that point online:


The 3 belts are as follows:
Fan/alternator: 99367-00920
Power steering: 90916-02104
A/C compressor: 99332-10980

Not a fan of the Haynes manual, but it usually has enough info to get jobs like this done without an issue.
 

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Personally, I recommend only Toyota Red antifreeze, and nothing else. There's some toyota red alternates out there, although I don't know how well they work, just make sure they are "IAT" or Inorganic Acid Technology type coolant, which is what Toyota Red is and what the vehicle came with from the factory. For the price of it and the required distilled water to dilute it, you might as well flush it out and start fresh.

And as I was typing, you posted pics of the green stuff. You should replace it with at least the Asian spec fluid they have there at Napa.
 

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Flush with regular water at least once, make sure it warms up to where the thermostat is opened and burp the vehicle (put front wheels on ramps, and if possible, facing upwards on an incline if you have a sloping driveway), running full heat inside the vehicle. Drain system. If it looks really nasty when you drain it, repeat with regular water.
Refill with distilled water, heat burp and drain, then run that 50/50 asian mix you just purchased, top off and burp system. Should be incredibly clean if you do it this way.

System takes around 8.3 to 8.5 quarts.
 

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Yes, agreed, but having full heat inside vehicle will also tell him that it is indeed getting to heater core inside and not just plugged. If he has it on full heat, he will be able to feel that heat, and if he feels nothing, that will tell him that he either has a failed/disconnected heat valve (the one on the firewall) or a plugged core.
Its also just easier to say "turn on full heat"!;)
 
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