[Jeremy R.]

Here's a couple of pictures of my water pump pulley from my '84 5MGE just so you get a better idea of what you are looking for. The one on the right is just a flat plate. It makes a V pulley when bolted together.

I think the '85 is the same?

 

[Jeremy R.]

Someone will pop up with a pulley set. By the way the pump by itself is only $20-40 on Rock Auto.

1985 TOYOTA CELICA 2.8L L6 Cooling System Parts | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

Keep in mind they often include the studs but you will also need the 4 nuts/washer combo that hols it together or substitute some others. The stock Toyota ones have a lock washer built in.

 

[Jeremy R.]

Bolts with the correct length with lock washers and blue loctite will also work.

Probably much less fiddley too.

 

[Jeremy R.]

Did you keep track of which length bolt went where for the water pump?

 

[Jeremy R.]

I made myself a diagram, strangely I don't have a picture of it. I remember 3 bolt lengths and one nut though

 

[Jeremy R.]

Did your timing belt skip a tooth?

 

[Jeremy R.]

Maybe. I have had cars that are off by one tooth on the timing belt, start, try to run and stall unless you keep on the gas so yes. 30 years ago I ran one of my 4 cylinders one tooth off for quite a while because it never stopped raining. PITA to drive.
Dealer thought it was and EGR issue. Put a new one in and it didn't do squat. I finally got a decent sunny day, checked the timing belt and lined up the 3 timing marks, tightened down the tensioner puley and all was right with the car again.

Worth checking out. not very hard to do either.

 

[Jeremy R.]

When the water pump pulley broke did the car back fire or buck or hesitate?
I use to always get discouraged until I took on the mind set of " THIS CAR WILL NOT BEAT ME!" Since then each one had been a mission. You just keep plugging through until you get it figured out.
Don't let it beat you.

 

[Jeremy R.]

Rule of thumb on belts. Once tightened you should be able to just twist the belt 90 degrees on its longest run.
Also with these alternator belts you may hear them squeal if they aren't tight enough. Particularly if you start turning on lights and high beams heater fan, rear defrost etc...mine started squealing as soon as I put a load on the alternator. It was too loose.

 

[Jeremy R.]

There's a tedious 10mm nut on a threaded rod to tighten the alternator. You hing it out tight then start turning the 10mm nut bit by bit to run the belt tight. There's a long nut that sets it tight once you get it tensioned. The tensioner looks like this:

That little nut on the long rod does the tensioning. The long headed bolt up top in the picture goes in the slider tab over the arced slot. Once you get the belt tight you set it with the long headed bolt. It's fiddly to tighten the 10mm nut on the shaft. If you can get your hands on a 10mm open end ratcheting wrench it makes it easier.
Don't forget to loosen the pivot bolts on the alternator first and snug them up afterwards.

 

[Jeremy R.]

OK and along that same length (pun intended) you could remove the belt, set the 10mm nut about 3/4 the way along the shaft and wrap a string around all the pulleys take it off and measure it to get your belt length. Used that a few times on stuff sitting for years.

 

[Jeremy R.]

Sounds like you are getting a case of the mozels. I'm here mozwelldoit
Seriously though It's not expensive to change the thermostat. I used a fail safe with a Fel-Pro gasket

The fail safe fails in an open position if it gets over heated so there's always flow through the engine. That's the part number for the 180 degree thermostat. Not sure if you need a cooler one being in Texas.

 

[Jeremy R.]

The three hole triangle gasket I posted is the right one.
Ask the forum or do a search. You may be fine with the 180 but maybe the 160 would be better?

 

[Jeremy R.]

Then go for the 180. My heater broke as soon as I tried to use it. That's what happens in 35+ year old cars that have been sitting for nearly 2 decades.

 

[Jeremy R.]

I read a few threads on thermostats. Some say the 160 won't run the engine hot enough to burn off the engine deposits and acids in the oil. Not sure. Just wondered if it'll keep it cooler in the Texas heat and warm enough at night.

I'm running 180 in mine as I said. But hottest day here in the summer was 90. Heated up and ran ok at 34 too last show I took it to this year at the TSC monthly meet.

How is the rad? Have you flushed it yet?

 

[Jeremy R.]

Having a thermostatically controlled fan is a must. You want the engine to heat up to operating temperature for maximum efficiency and not overheat. Running the fan always won't let that happen.

 

[Jeremy R.]

As we discussed earlier are you sure you've got the right bolts in the right holes? There are three different lengths for the waterpump. Are you sure you didn't put the wrong bolt in the wrong hole and it just bottomed out?
Did the waterpump gasket get damaged?

 

[Jeremy R.]

As for your fan. Converting to the Ford Contour V6 dual fan set up with dual relays and dual fuses/fusible links was very popular there for a while. Do a search you'll find more info. If you want the easy way get a thermostatic switch that's rated 180F off/ 200F on.

My waterpump gasket showed up ripped so I used black RTV and let it set up for 24 hours.

 

[Jeremy R.]

Hmmm thought there were 3 water pump bolt lengths.
Memory, not so good. That's why I take 1000's of pictures and make notes.

 

[Jeremy R.]

Why the sealant?
EDIT: Wait I just re-read that. You double gasketed it?
Take you time. If you get stuck ask. Doing things twice every time gets old fast and more expensive too