MKII water pump pulley broke

2674 Views 127 Replies 9 Participants Last post by JCC, 6 mo ago

JCC

Discussion Starter · 7 mo ago

Was just posting about the alternator and look at what we have here. I was on the freeway and heard something break. Kept going hoping it was not something vital and then could not keep it running after a bit. I guess that is what happens when the alternator is no longer being turned by the belt. What is the pulley I need?

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JCC

Discussion Starter · #61 · 7 mo ago

11

pics

power steering reservoir says TOYODA?

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JCC

Discussion Starter · #62 · 7 mo ago

got this stuff

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Flyin' Hawaiian

· #63 · 7 mo ago

Personally, I recommend only Toyota Red antifreeze, and nothing else. There's some toyota red alternates out there, although I don't know how well they work, just make sure they are "IAT" or Inorganic Acid Technology type coolant, which is what Toyota Red is and what the vehicle came with from the factory. For the price of it and the required distilled water to dilute it, you might as well flush it out and start fresh.

And as I was typing, you posted pics of the green stuff. You should replace it with at least the Asian spec fluid they have there at Napa.

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JCC

Discussion Starter · #64 · 7 mo ago (Edited)

Flyin' Hawaiian said:
Personally, I recommend only Toyota Red antifreeze, and nothing else. There's some toyota red alternates out there, although I don't know how well they work, just make sure they are "IAT" or Inorganic Acid Technology type coolant, which is what Toyota Red is and what the vehicle came with from the factory. For the price of it and the required distilled water to dilute it, you might as well flush it out and start fresh.

And as I was typing, you posted pics of the green stuff. You should replace it with at least the Asian spec fluid they have there at Napa.

thank you, on the way back to Napa now..

unfortunately, I do not know what is in there now and I am not flushing the system today

going to order the hoses and flush sometime before year end most likely

if anyone has a recommended step by step for burping the system, please post and I will see what I can find on the forums

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Funkycheeze

· #65 · 7 mo ago

When you remove the water pump most of the coolant will come out. Might as well flush now and fill with Toyota red coolant.

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pdupler

· #66 · 7 mo ago

Don't MIX the fluid colors because the different chemicals can sometimes react badly to one another. That's why they are different colors. Check to see what color coolant is already in it. I can't tell from your photos. We recommend the Toyota red, but if its got green in it and you are not going to do a flush right now, then just top it off with the same color or look for one that says its safe to mix until you can get around to doing a flush and then replace it all with the correct stuff.

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JCC

Discussion Starter · #67 · 7 mo ago

7

have been thinking that too since it got dark and I stopped for the day

will get more coolant and plan on doing the flush and may get the hoses changed at the same time though they do not look bad

need to search for procedure to flush and burp

tip: water pump installs without the pulley or you cannot easily get to all of the bolts to tighten them

more pics

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Jeremy R.

· #68 · 7 mo ago

Did you keep track of which length bolt went where for the water pump?

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JCC

Discussion Starter · #69 · 7 mo ago (Edited)

yes, though only certain thread patterns worked in their respective locations

one bolt had a smaller thread patterns than the others, but had the same size head as some of the others

three were larger than the others

random incomplete detail, I know haha

trying to remember the two head sizes and tools are in the car

10mm and 13mm

14mm to loosen a bolt for the belt

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Jeremy R.

· #70 · 7 mo ago

I made myself a diagram, strangely I don't have a picture of it. I remember 3 bolt lengths and one nut though

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JCC

Discussion Starter · #71 · 7 mo ago (Edited)

Jeremy R. said:
I made myself a diagram, strangely I don't have a picture of it. I remember 3 bolt lengths and one nut though

I kept track of it, but in the long-run only certain bolts fit into certain locations

I was concerned reusing the bolts and hoped the new water pump came with new ones

I did find two of the sheared bolts that hold the pulley onto the water pump that broke in the engine bay funny enough

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RedP85

· #72 · 7 mo ago

First, take good note of where nuts and bolts goes. They are not all same lenghts. There is a diagram just for that.
Use same coolant color as what was there. Green, Blue, or Red with proper mixture.
To fill and burp, having car ramps helps : have the front higher, leave rad cap out, pump the lower rad hose to pump some air out. Start car. Bubbles should come out. Run until car warms-up, so thermostat open and really bleed the engine. Top rad as nessesary.

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Flyin' Hawaiian

· #73 · 7 mo ago

And don't forget to put heater on full heat when you flush/refill/burp the system. Very important to flush everything out of the heater core inside when you do that flush!

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JCC

Discussion Starter · #74 · 7 mo ago

RedP85 said:
First, take good note of where nuts and bolts goes. They are not all same lenghts. There is a diagram just for that.
Use same coolant color as what was there. Green, Blue, or Red with proper mixture.
To fill and burp, having car ramps helps : have the front higher, leave rad cap out, pump the lower rad hose to pump some air out. Start car. Bubbles should come out. Run until car warms-up, so thermostat open and really bleed the engine. Top rad as nessesary.

from what I saw:

-one bolt was a smaller thread pattern, but same head as the others
-three bolts were large and the same though larger head that the others
-the other however many were the same and the same smaller head as the first one

seemed like it would be difficult to mix these up

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JCC

Discussion Starter · #75 · 7 mo ago

RedP85 said:
First, take good note of where nuts and bolts goes. They are not all same lenghts. There is a diagram just for that.
Use same coolant color as what was there. Green, Blue, or Red with proper mixture.
To fill and burp, having car ramps helps : have the front higher, leave rad cap out, pump the lower rad hose to pump some air out. Start car. Bubbles should come out. Run until car warms-up, so thermostat open and really bleed the engine. Top rad as nessesary.

the coolant that is in the car now is not a nice color so flushing to replace with red seems to be the best move

how much coolant do I need and do I need to flush with distilled water before putting the fluid in?

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JCC

Discussion Starter · #76 · 7 mo ago

I see this hose set(lower and upper together), but also see bypass hose and heater hose

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Flyin' Hawaiian

· #77 · 7 mo ago

Flush with regular water at least once, make sure it warms up to where the thermostat is opened and burp the vehicle (put front wheels on ramps, and if possible, facing upwards on an incline if you have a sloping driveway), running full heat inside the vehicle. Drain system. If it looks really nasty when you drain it, repeat with regular water.
Refill with distilled water, heat burp and drain, then run that 50/50 asian mix you just purchased, top off and burp system. Should be incredibly clean if you do it this way.

System takes around 8.3 to 8.5 quarts.

RedP85

· #78 · 7 mo ago

Heat to max or min really has no effect. As as soon they valve by the wiper motor opens (at 30degC) it fully circulate coolant in the heater core. What change the temp inside is the blending flap.
But it is still a good practice for any car.

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Flyin' Hawaiian

· #79 · 7 mo ago

Yes, agreed, but having full heat inside vehicle will also tell him that it is indeed getting to heater core inside and not just plugged. If he has it on full heat, he will be able to feel that heat, and if he feels nothing, that will tell him that he either has a failed/disconnected heat valve (the one on the firewall) or a plugged core.
Its also just easier to say "turn on full heat"!

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JCC

Discussion Starter · #80 · 7 mo ago (Edited)

RedP85 said:
Heat to max or min really has no effect. As as soon they valve by the wiper motor opens (at 30degC) it fully circulate coolant in the heater core. What change the temp inside is the blending flap.
But it is still a good practice for any car.

valve by the wiper motor?

I appreciate your help

should I look at replacing the other hoses I mentioned as well?

not sure about my electric fan and may need to look at replacing it too in the not too distant future

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