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83 Turbo '84 Dk Blue Auto-> 5 Spd... '85 ..gradually acquiring parts to Turbo ... have 82 Engine
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idea (anyone) of where to find replacement parts for this?

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I'll have all the parts U need... if U are staying OEM...

However, it looks like the bolts for the Fan Clutch were sheared right off.. & would have to be drilled out & re-Tapped.

If U don't know how to do that yourself... U will have to get someone who knows what they're doing....

nyway, LMK if U need any of the Standard parts... I think U will still need some of them even if U are using an Electric Fan ,,, since the other belts (Power Steering for example ) still have to operate...

Cheers,
 
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'85 Toyota Celica Supra P-Type
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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
I'll have all the parts U need... if U are staying OEM...

However, it looks like the bolts for the Fan Clutch were sheared right off.. & would have to be drilled out & re-Tapped.

If U don't know how to do that yourself... U will have to get someone who knows what they're doing....

nyway, LMK if U need any of the Standard parts... I think U will still need some of them even if U are using an Electric Fan ,,, since the other belts (Power Steering for example ) still have to operate...

Cheers,
Thank you, I have replaced the water pump which came with new hardware for the pulley I found separately on eBay. The pulley included the plate that holds the power steering v-belt and the nuts to attach everything to the water pump. On my way to Napa to get the hoses so I can change those out after flushing.

What parts do you have otherwise? I have some under the hood parts that could use replacement.

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'85 Toyota Celica Supra P-Type
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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
got upper and lower hoses changed today with new clamps after flushing

rinsed out the coolant reservoir, but need to get the water out of it now maybe by taking it off and dumping it out unless I can syphon it

was jump starting to run the car moving the coolant through the system, but would not start so may have to let it charge more before trying again

started raining, so I stopped for the day

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'85 Toyota Celica Supra P-Type
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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
added more coolant today and tried starting again

will not stay running and not sure if I broke something else

uploading a video to Rumble and will share here:


could also use some help making sure I have the alternator belt as tight as I can since it seems loose after swap

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Maybe. I have had cars that are off by one tooth on the timing belt, start, try to run and stall unless you keep on the gas so yes. 30 years ago I ran one of my 4 cylinders one tooth off for quite a while because it never stopped raining. PITA to drive.
Dealer thought it was and EGR issue. Put a new one in and it didn't do squat. I finally got a decent sunny day, checked the timing belt and lined up the 3 timing marks, tightened down the tensioner puley and all was right with the car again.

Worth checking out. not very hard to do either.
 

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'85 Toyota Celica Supra P-Type
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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Maybe. I have had cars that are off by one tooth on the timing belt, start, try to run and stall unless you keep on the gas so yes. 30 years ago I ran one of my 4 cylinders one tooth off for quite a while because it never stopped raining. PITA to drive.
Dealer thought it was and EGR issue. Put a new one in and it didn't do squat. I finally got a decent sunny day, checked the timing belt and lined up the 3 timing marks, tightened down the tensioner puley and all was right with the car again.

Worth checking out. not very hard to do either.
I welcome your advice and any other information

nothing would surprise me and getting discouraged

do not want to make anything worse and willing to try

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When the water pump pulley broke did the car back fire or buck or hesitate?
I use to always get discouraged until I took on the mind set of " THIS CAR WILL NOT BEAT ME!" Since then each one had been a mission. You just keep plugging through until you get it figured out.
Don't let it beat you.
 

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'85 Toyota Celica Supra P-Type
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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
When the water pump pulley broke did the car back fire or buck or hesitate?
I use to always get discouraged until I took on the mind set of " THIS CAR WILL NOT BEAT ME!" Since then each one had been a mission. You just keep plugging through until you get it figured out.
Don't let it beat you.
Thank you. I would say it may be ran at a little higher RPM just before or maybe just sounded like it did.

Kind of a blur. Based on the voltage gauge on the dash which may not be accurate, it seems like it is not getting enough juice. Either way, it seems like it would start with the other vehicle connected using jumper cables.

Again, not sure the alternator belt is tight enough. I realize that probably does not matter for purposes of starting the car.

In search of a local shop to at least diagnose it for me. The previous shop though honest and nice enough, they do not know much about this generation of Japanese cars. As much as I would like to keep plugging away at it, I sold my truck which was my primary transportation. Cannot use my motorcycle for everything and do not care for riding the bike in the rain.

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Rule of thumb on belts. Once tightened you should be able to just twist the belt 90 degrees on its longest run.
Also with these alternator belts you may hear them squeal if they aren't tight enough. Particularly if you start turning on lights and high beams heater fan, rear defrost etc...mine started squealing as soon as I put a load on the alternator. It was too loose.
 

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'85 Toyota Celica Supra P-Type
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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Rule of thumb on belts. Once tightened you should be able to just twist the belt 90 degrees on its longest run.
Also with these alternator belts you may hear them squeal if they aren't tight enough. Particularly if you start turning on lights and high beams heater fan, rear defrost etc...mine started squealing as soon as I put a load on the alternator. It was too loose.
if I could get it to run, I could see for myself rather than being stuck behind the driver's seat

Will post a photo of how the belts look, but I feel like the one going around the alternator has too much of a curve on it between the alternator and the water pump. I feel like I have it hinged out as far as it can go and do not believe there is another adjustment for that belt. Thinking about it more, I may be should make sure that I did not tighten the power steering pump hinge too much and it may be opposing it. Really want to get this thing moving again.

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There's a tedious 10mm nut on a threaded rod to tighten the alternator. You hing it out tight then start turning the 10mm nut bit by bit to run the belt tight. There's a long nut that sets it tight once you get it tensioned. The tensioner looks like this:
Bicycle part Tool Bicycle drivetrain part Auto part Metal

That little nut on the long rod does the tensioning. The long headed bolt up top in the picture goes in the slider tab over the arced slot. Once you get the belt tight you set it with the long headed bolt. It's fiddly to tighten the 10mm nut on the shaft. If you can get your hands on a 10mm open end ratcheting wrench it makes it easier.
Don't forget to loosen the pivot bolts on the alternator first and snug them up afterwards.
 

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Does it still have an original alternator? I'm looking at those fans and wondering. I think the original was a 60amp and so its been popular to upgrade to 80 or 120amp alternators from newer cars, particularly when running an extra load like a big stereo or those electric fans. But the "ears" on an alternator from another car are often clocked slightly different or the pulley that came with the alternator might be a hair smaller or larger, either of which could necessitate the next size belt. If you've already got that little 10mm nut that Jeremy has shown above cranked as far as it will go and its still not tight enough, you can take the belt back to the store and ask them to look up the belt lengths in the manufacturer's catalog by part number and order you the next shorter belt. I think they come in like 10mm increments.

IIRC, mine is from a 92 Camry and I know the stock belt doesn't fit because it started chirping and I needed to replace it not too long ago. I forgot that little detail from my build 23 years earlier and just ordered the stock belt off Rock Auto or Amazon. Had to stop in the middle of the job and order the next size to fit, but luckily I didn't have to figure it out all over again because after I had the old belt off, it was easy to look up the part number that was printed on the belt itself. I'm guessing that you can't look up the part number on the belt that was previously installed as its gone missing entirely? It's been less than two years since my last replacement and I've already forgotten again whether it was longer or shorter than the original. 😳 That's what happens when you get old.
 
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OK and along that same length (pun intended) you could remove the belt, set the 10mm nut about 3/4 the way along the shaft and wrap a string around all the pulleys take it off and measure it to get your belt length. Used that a few times on stuff sitting for years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
There's a tedious 10mm nut on a threaded rod to tighten the alternator. You hing it out tight then start turning the 10mm nut bit by bit to run the belt tight. There's a long nut that sets it tight once you get it tensioned. The tensioner looks like this: View attachment 21507
That little nut on the long rod does the tensioning. The long headed bolt up top in the picture goes in the slider tab over the arced slot. Once you get the belt tight you set it with the long headed bolt. It's fiddly to tighten the 10mm nut on the shaft. If you can get your hands on a 10mm open end ratcheting wrench it makes it easier.
Don't forget to loosen the pivot bolts on the alternator first and snug them up afterwards.
thank you so much, this should be a big help
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Does it still have an original alternator? I'm looking at those fans and wondering. I think the original was a 60amp and so its been popular to upgrade to 80 or 120amp alternators from newer cars, particularly when running an extra load like a big stereo or those electric fans. But the "ears" on an alternator from another car are often clocked slightly different or the pulley that came with the alternator might be a hair smaller or larger, either of which could necessitate the next size belt. If you've already got that little 10mm nut that Jeremy has shown above cranked as far as it will go and its still not tight enough, you can take the belt back to the store and ask them to look up the belt lengths in the manufacturer's catalog by part number and order you the next shorter belt. I think they come in like 10mm increments.

IIRC, mine is from a 92 Camry and I know the stock belt doesn't fit because it started chirping and I needed to replace it not too long ago. I forgot that little detail from my build 23 years earlier and just ordered the stock belt off Rock Auto or Amazon. Had to stop in the middle of the job and order the next size to fit, but luckily I didn't have to figure it out all over again because after I had the old belt off, it was easy to look up the part number that was printed on the belt itself. I'm guessing that you can't look up the part number on the belt that was previously installed as its gone missing entirely? It's been less than two years since my last replacement and I've already forgotten again whether it was longer or shorter than the original. 😳 That's what happens when you get old.
thank you also for the continued advice

previous owner told me he replaced the alternator and I can get better pictures of it to confirm

the belt size may be an issue and I can look at getting a shorter one if needed - I still need to try the long nut mentioned and may need to get under the car to see better

off the new topic, but maybe more on the original topic: should I replace the thermostat? (it may be a newer one and I do not remember if the previous owner told me he replaced it)
 

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Sounds like you are getting a case of the mozels. I'm here mozwelldoit
Seriously though It's not expensive to change the thermostat. I used a fail safe with a Fel-Pro gasket
Automotive tire Font Material property Gas Automotive wheel system


The fail safe fails in an open position if it gets over heated so there's always flow through the engine. That's the part number for the 180 degree thermostat. Not sure if you need a cooler one being in Texas.
 

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'85 Toyota Celica Supra P-Type
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Discussion Starter · #99 · (Edited)
yes, definitely having a case of mozwells or sinceyouwas haha

thank you for the advise and I definitely do not know what degree I should go with for sure

always fun with Amazon does not think it will fit lol
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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
I see three different temperature thermostats available in the 7240 series:

7240-160 (160 degrees)
7240-180 (180 degrees)
7240-192 (192 degrees)

not sure I fully understand which would be better for Texas where outside temperatures could be very high or very low though usually moderate

also, not sure why the MotoRad website shows this for the gasket which is quite different than the above

Font Circle Screenshot Number Brand
 
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