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What is the most horsepower that anyone has heard of out of a 5MGTE motor and how did they get it? I am at high altitude and it has sucked the life out of my motor having no air. I can never seem to find any Dyno specs on this subject.
 

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Not to be a jerk, But how much money do you have to spend and time while the car is tied up in a shop. And then it all might go bad and you end up without a car and lose the money spent.
 

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Well I live at about 6000 feet above Sea level and I’m driving a car that has 140,000 miles on it that originally put out 143 hp. I’m estimating I have about 100 horse power right now. All cylinders have perfect compression and I have installed a K&N Drop in air filter and a complete new exhaust except for the exhaust manifold. So what would you guys do? I have been around long enough to See certain cars appreciate in value and I believe this generation of Supras will do the same. This car is in perfect shape and I do believe there is something to be said for matching numbers on the engine block. Therefore, how do I get more horsies out of this engine. I can barely keep up with interstate traffic when they are driving 90 miles an hour
 

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Whistles
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Leave it stock for value, imo.
 

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Leave it stock for value, imo.
While as a card-carrying member of the NCRS and MCA, I often preach originality, I'm not so sure that its going to be as highly prized for 1980s cars as it was for muscle cars, particularly in the engine bay. After all, our era was artificially held back by government emissions mandates that exceeded the available technology of the time. What people are going to want is a car that's appearance is exactly like the one they drooled over when they were a teen but that goes at least as fast as their grandkid's modern Kia. I think if you were to do a turbo conversion on your 5m very tastefully, very professionally, with period-correct parts/methods as it would have been done in the late 80s, and above all, do not cut or drill anything or lose any original parts, then you could have the best of both worlds. As long as you have all the original parts stored safely away in a box and labeled so that the car could be returned to stock with a few weekends worth of work, then no-harm, no foul.

I believe most of the basic 5mgte conversions were getting something in the low 200s. But its a very light car by today's safety, technology and luxury encrusted standards so even a 50-60hp increase over stock is transformative. However, going for maximum power output would be stretching the value equation as you start having to upgrade more and more of the driveline to withstand the strain. That ultimately leads to irreversible modifications or at the very least, its no longer just a couple of three-day weekends to return it to stock if the values should trend that way.

Plus, this is a Supra L-type with already 150K miles on it. Its not the most collectible of mk2 examples out there. If it had say 80K miles or less, I'd be pleading by all that is Holy to keep it bone stock, but value-wise I think this is more like putting a few go-fast goodies out of the Summit catalog on a base 307 Nova that your grandmother already fetched an awful lot of groceries in. As long as you're not cutting, drilling, welding or otherwise doing irreversible changes, I think it would be OK.
 
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Whistles
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Makes sense explained like that.

As long as you are satisfied. Which may not be for very long if you want that Kia power. :)
 

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I moved from Southern California to Northern Colorado about a year ago, and I know what you mean about power loss.

So far all I have is a Raptor Air Intake tube and a non stock exhaust. I'm thinking of ditching the engine driven fan to cut the parasitic losses a bit, but that's about it.

Mine was on the dyno at Supras In Vegas two years ago and put out 142 HP to the wheels. One of my new friends has a chassis dyno, so I'm making plans to run the car here to see what the difference is.

- Jim
 

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I moved from Southern California to Northern Colorado about a year ago, and I know what you mean about power loss.

So far all I have is a Raptor Air Intake tube and a non stock exhaust. I'm thinking of ditching the engine driven fan to cut the parasitic losses a bit, but that's about it.

Mine was on the dyno at Supras In Vegas two years ago and put out 142 HP to the wheels. One of my new friends has a chassis dyno, so I'm making plans to run the car here to see what the difference is.

- Jim
That's actually kinda impressive given the age of our cars. That's only a 11.25% drop from the 160 Hp at the crank shaft giving you a very good indicator that your compression and timing /fuel mixture was spot on.

Additionally parasitic loss of accessory components and drive train is comparable to modern transverse economy cars.

I'm assuming your car is a 5 speed, but that's super impressive regardless.
 

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That's actually kinda impressive given the age of our cars. That's only a 11.25% drop from the 160 Hp at the crank shaft giving you a very good indicator that your compression and timing /fuel mixture was spot on.

Additionally parasitic loss of accessory components and drive train is comparable to modern transverse economy cars.

I'm assuming your car is a 5 speed, but that's super impressive regardless.
Yep, a 5-speed with a 4.30 rear axle.

I was quite surprised. I'd been hoping for 125+, but other forum members indicated it should be 140-ish. I'm sure the Red Line synthetic gear lube and diff lube along with the Castrol semi-synthetic oil in the engine helped a bit.

At 168,000 miles it runs great and has 170PSI compression +/- a few psi.
 

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I only gave mine credit for like 120 but maybe I was in the same boat. Even the tired old 5M with well over 200K miles made me smile ear to ear after 4K RPM.
 

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Hi Jolene,

Here is the title of an old link to my 5MGTE build. I still have the car and it has been flogged hard with zero engine issues. Was a time consuming but not money intensive project. Just an FYI.

Finally dynoed my 5MGTE

Damian
 

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Link here...
 

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You can the bang for the buck with a non-restrictive air intake tube. Chimpy one works for me, but my car is no longer stock. If you want a bit more torque, that will help a lot along with a cold air intake system of your choice...But then your car will not be STOCK, anymore. With less air up there, a bump in timing will be noticeable. Go from 10 * to 12 *.
Run high octane gasoline. Especially helpful in colder weather.
 

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From what I learned from the forum over the years is that at about 300hp +/- stock components begin breaking, expensive hard to source parts...

Seems like a safe sweet spot is somewhere in-between 200-250 hp?
 

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I would happily rock a bone stock 92-98 2jzge over any 5mgte setup all day long in a mk2, and it will cost you less then half and last 100k miles without anything but oil changes if you do the WP, timing belt, seals and hoses when you put it in. I have a fully built 6mge that puts down 188lbs/ft to the wheels, which is pretty close to what a 2jzge with a header does, and its tons of fun and super reliable. But building a built NA M motor these days is a PITA, I would just swap to a 2j unless keeping it original under the hood is really important to you. There's actually nothing wrong with a near stock 84+ mk2 with 5spd, 4.3 and all the bolt ons in terms of power to weight and fun factor. They are still fun cars today even imo. But the 82s are definitely anemic at this point, I wouldn't put any money into the early low compression motors unless a low power 5mgte is what you want. But to do any turbo swap right, really requires a new or rebuilt turbo and standalone, so the cost difference between turboing a 5m and just swapping JZ motor of your choice is fairly minor, but the perf difference is huge.
 

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A member rocked a stockish 5m block up to just above 350rwhp which lasted a few years before blowing a ringland - this was with a fancy turbo, full standalone, almost no expenses spared.

--billyM
Wait which one blew in that manner? My memory is fuzzy... I'm still planning on turboing 5/6m in mine when i get around to tons of other projects, but yeah ~300hp with tons of failsafes in place to be as safe as I can. And i'm fully aware 2j/1uz is the cheaper way to go, I just like the look of the old M motors for some reason and have piles of parts for em.
 

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I agree with your choice. Easier to install power adders on an existing engine, with all of the peripherals than to replace the engine, Gamble. (y)
 

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Wait which one blew in that manner? My memory is fuzzy... I'm still planning on turboing 5/6m in mine when i get around to tons of other projects, but yeah ~300hp with tons of failsafes in place to be as safe as I can. And i'm fully aware 2j/1uz is the cheaper way to go, I just like the look of the old M motors for some reason and have piles of parts for em.
LOL... I must have been drinking - it didn't last a few months at 350rwhp before popping.

Anyways, 300rwhp seems to be safe-ish but if you're looking for more you should be looking for a 1jz-gte(vvti)...

-billyM
 
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