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Hi there Vary nice job, Just got done reading the whole build, I'm not much for words, I'm building my mk2 right now with a 2jzgte vvti, I have a lot to learn. what was the hardest part for you?

thanks for sharing, Pm me sometime??

James
 

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Thanks! Its a blast to drive!

Does anyone know if ae86 rear arms are the same length at the mx72 control arms? Also thought about just using ae86 poly bushings but I don't know if the diameters are the same. Guess and test maybe?
I am pretty sure you can buy the bushings for the four links and press them in the arms. Try Rock Auto. It is also possible to pour your own poly mix to rebuild what you have. The T3 arms are convenient because they are easily adjustable which is what you will need with a Mk1 Axle because the four link mounts are not the same as the MX72 axle housing.

If you are interested in a Mk1 axle PM me.
 

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Hey! Wow, awesome build, so glad you decided to join and post this.

Lots of comments, I'm going to forget some though.

Sucks about the battery rust on your car, that shit is hard to fix. I have a thread on how I go about it if you get ambitious. Lots of cutting and grinding.

Hey, curious about the air intake manifold on these motors. I've actually driven a mk2 Supra with this motor like a decade ago (it put down about 280rwhp btw with a similar aftermarket IC and exhaust setup, but manual), but I've never really looked at that airbox system above the turbo this close before. What all is the point of it? I see they are dumping the recirc valve output back into it, and what looks like the idle air valve source (though this should be a DBW TB setup and not need that, so maybe its PCV?), and I see some sensors, probably air temp and all. But what else is the point? Most turbo motors don't have a thing like that.

Thats great news about the bomb proof mount working. I actually need to go the opposite direction. My tacoma is tranny slapping like crazy and everyone says not to run the bomb proof mounts on a street driven 4 banger. I couldn't find any poly 2rz/3rz mounts online, but the GM transmission mounts we use on M motors looked awfully similar to me so I figured I'd try a set of those next.

Yeah as you know, stock brakes and stock rear end won't last long. Buy his /|\ mk1 axel, its the simplest way to go. But rear calipers are problematic on those now (supply). Toyota 8.8 truck axel is an option too.
 

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I'll echo Seamus' comments - welcome and thanks for bringing your build here. Great writeup and pictures... you make it look easy.
 

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I wouldn't waste my time on the mk1 rear end. Too costly for what you get. If look at a Ford 8.8 from a 90s exploder.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Hi there Vary nice job, Just got done reading the whole build, I'm not much for words, I'm building my mk2 right now with a 2jzgte vvti, I have a lot to learn. what was the hardest part for you?

thanks for sharing, Pm me sometime??

James
Thanks for the interest. I really like doing these type of swaps. The hardest part for me was gathering the motivation to tackle the tedious parts like extending the wiring.

I am pretty sure you can buy the bushings for the four links and press them in the arms. Try Rock Auto. It is also possible to pour your own poly mix to rebuild what you have. The T3 arms are convenient because they are easily adjustable which is what you will need with a Mk1 Axle because the four link mounts are not the same as the MX72 axle housing.

If you are interested in a Mk1 axle PM me.
Ive seen polyurethane bushing for sale on eBay for AE86 4 links but I would like to be sure the bushing diameter and bolt sleeve diameter will match the MX72 rear links. That's going to be the most economical options. Ive considered the poly mix and pour but Id prefer a longer term solution. Ill have to keep you posted on the MK1 axle interest. Part of me wants to go that route for the ease of the swap but my fabricator side says I can figure out a stronger, cheaper, and more readily available solution...much more work but that's never scared me.

Hey! Wow, awesome build, so glad you decided to join and post this.

Lots of comments, I'm going to forget some though.

Sucks about the battery rust on your car, that shit is hard to fix. I have a thread on how I go about it if you get ambitious. Lots of cutting and grinding.

Hey, curious about the air intake manifold on these motors. I've actually driven a mk2 Supra with this motor like a decade ago (it put down about 280rwhp btw with a similar aftermarket IC and exhaust setup, but manual), but I've never really looked at that airbox system above the turbo this close before. What all is the point of it? I see they are dumping the recirc valve output back into it, and what looks like the idle air valve source (though this should be a DBW TB setup and not need that, so maybe its PCV?), and I see some sensors, probably air temp and all. But what else is the point? Most turbo motors don't have a thing like that.

Thats great news about the bomb proof mount working. I actually need to go the opposite direction. My tacoma is tranny slapping like crazy and everyone says not to run the bomb proof mounts on a street driven 4 banger. I couldn't find any poly 2rz/3rz mounts online, but the GM transmission mounts we use on M motors looked awfully similar to me so I figured I'd try a set of those next.

Yeah as you know, stock brakes and stock rear end won't last long. Buy his /|\ mk1 axel, its the simplest way to go. But rear calipers are problematic on those now (supply). Toyota 8.8 truck axel is an option too.
The rust is a little annoying but its nowhere under the car at least. It lives in my garage mostly so ill fix the cosmetics as time goes on.
I don't know enough about exactly why Toyota designed the turbo inlet manifold the way they did to give you any accurate info unfortunately. That being said, this guy over on Supramania is able to do a much better job of explaining the BOV/recirc valve function.

I do know that there is no IAC on this model 1JZ. The throttle body on the 1/2JZs marked "ECTS-i" utilized a throttle cable that only opens the throttle body 10% mechanically. The remainder of the throttle plate movement is done via electric motor driven by a potentiometer that sweeps with the pull of the cable. The Idle air control and cruise control is taken care of within the throttle body. I should also add, while I used a 96 Corolla throttle cable, I stupidly bought an aftermarket cable and it sucks. There's too much friction between the cable and the liner which makes for a very notchy throttle pedal. Ive replaced it with a used OEM cable from the same car. Live and learn right?!


I'll echo Seamus' comments - welcome and thanks for bringing your build here. Great writeup and pictures... you make it look easy.
Thanks for the kind words! Happy to share! I enjoy the feedback and collective thought process but mainly hope other see this stuff and decide, I can do that!

I wouldn't waste my time on the mk1 rear end. Too costly for what you get. If look at a Ford 8.8 from a 90s exploder.
I tend to agree with the cost-to-strength ratio. Id thought about an exploder 8.8. Gotta check the axle width. Got a buddy that does heavy welding for a living, he suggested welding in a yota 8" truck center section into the MX72 rear axle. Still weighing all my option.
 

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...I tend to agree with the cost-to-strength ratio. Id thought about an exploder 8.8. Gotta check the axle width. Got a buddy that does heavy welding for a living, he suggested welding in a yota 8" truck center section into the MX72 rear axle. Still weighing all my option.
They can be pretty easily narrowed. You can get custom axles cut to whatever length you want. Or the cheap way is to use two of the same used axles on both sides. The axles are asymmetric on the stock one so you can use the shorter one on both sides.
 

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Wow!
I really enjoyed the work progress and your mechanical and electric skills, I tend to keep everything too stock to be even remotely interesting.. :p
I love a good sleeper, more vids if possible!
 

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It really depends on what you pay for the mk1 axle. It will pretty much be a bolt in swap if you get one, whereas every other step is custom with any other axle. I helped a bud put one in his 85 Celica GT, which should have basically the same floor pan arrangement as your car in the rear, and it was 100% bolt in with all the right factory parts. Calipers can bite you though, there is no supply for them so make sure you get an axle with good ones if you do it. Pretty sure you can get seal kits for them still, and there are still pads and rotors of course, but not great selection.
 

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The rust is a little annoying but its nowhere under the car at least. It lives in my garage mostly so ill fix the cosmetics as time goes on.
I don't know enough about exactly why Toyota designed the turbo inlet manifold the way they did to give you any accurate info unfortunately. That being said, this guy over on Supramania is able to do a much better job of explaining the BOV/recirc valve function.
Ah, I didn't realize the vvti 1jz was actually bleeding boost early in the rpm range. They probably do that to get better gas milage moreso then emmisions. I certainly noticed on that motor that it felt like a normal high revving NA motor till 3000+, that would explain it. Though still not sure why it needs an extra manifold on top of the turbo.

I saw a little rust in your lower rad support there too, its likely inside your rail as well.
 

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This thread is not helping my irrational desires for another boxy japanese car in the garage. Well done, thanks for sharing.
 

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This thread is not helping my irrational desires for another boxy japanese car in the garage. Well done, thanks for sharing.
Tell me about it. And up here 2000ish Crown wagons with this same motor are fairly common and reasonably priced...
 

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This is awesome man! Keep it up and updated to, love seeing the progress. I am doing the exact same thing right now, can't wait to get my mx72 off jackstands. Compiling parts slowly. Just got my future fab elbow and cube shifter in for my w58. Currently saving up to refresh my 1jvvti. I may love to pick your brain on the wiring a little more if you have time. It's my weakest point. Here's a pic of my wagon ?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Had some catching up to do on this thread. Ive had a few other projects sideline the Cressida....also had too much fun with the Cressida haha. Pinion shaft snapped and shot out the rear of the differential housing. Honestly Im surprised it held up as long. Left me stranded a whopping 4 miles from my house. This all leads me to an ultimatum considering my sleeper power goals.

Do I ditch the chassis and implant the powertrain into something like an E30, E36, Miata, S2000, Mk3 supra, Mk2 supra, Subaru, Benz SL....? I considered all these for a bit, researched the possibility of them all based on engine sump location and stock rear end strength. Ultimately the decision was obvious, order a custom rear diff housing, weld on T3 bracket kit, add T3 control arms. This will produce incredible burnouts for sure!

New rear end is going to be based on a Dana 44, 30 spline. Custom width to match Cressida axle using Ford 8.8 disc brakes. I'll be adding a brake bias proportioning valve of course.

CRESIDA - D486
* DISC BRAKES
* 5X4.5 LUG PATTERN
* 55.250" WMS
* 4.29 RATIO - HELICAL POSI
* 1310 YOKE
* ALUMINUM COVER



Also, FREE 5M with A43de trans. 143k, ran decent when removed, cut up harness. Did I mention FREE? Come pick it up.

 

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I was waiting for your story about the demise of the 7.1" diff, they don't even last very long with a 5M and I have seen a few broken at the boneyard. Glad you are keeping the MX72, they are unique although the "is that a Volvo" question gets old. There are no bad design lines on the whole body.

Keep us posted on the progress and cost of your custom axle.

David
 

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Sounds fun! Though certainly the expensive route. I'd just grab a toyota 8.8 rear axle, it probably wouldn't even need to be shortened to fit this body. You can run the mk3 Supra LSD in it, which is super strong and has a cheap upgrade from Weir available, or the T2 Torsen found in the is300, plentiful and cheap and easy to find!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Hey guys, been awhile! Kinda put the Cressida on the back burner over the winter due to some other projects. Dropped and rebuilt a 95 Porsche 911 engine for a client which occupied most of my garage space over the winter. Then I traded a Jetta for a 05 bmw that turned out to be a Zhp so that turned into another fun project that Ive been driving everyday now. More on the BMW here.

Anyway. Decided to finally pull the old axle from the Cressida. I really wanted to see what kind of failure had occurred. I thought the pinion shaft had snapped based on the play in the pinion flange. Turns out the spider gears exploded and I even twisted an axle shaft at the splines...the right side of course!

Ive got a buddy giving me a complete 84 22r pickup rear axle. Its 55" WMS and a 8" diff so I can make it work with a hammer and some welding. Plus, theres tons of options at that point for making this thing spin both wheels.








And as it sits now...
 

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I was browsing through your BMW refresh and was wondering where you bought the foam-backed alcantara? I couldn't find any good place to buy the official stuff stateside last time I looked.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I was browsing through your BMW refresh and was wondering where you bought the foam-backed alcantara? I couldn't find any good place to buy the official stuff stateside last time I looked.
I ordered the material in early February, looks to be unavailable now though. Maybe a local headliner or interior shop may have something?

 
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