[dannoxyz]

Awesome write-up on incredible build!!!

Good think you're using Flickr, your photos will survive. Darn Photophucket changes URL of photo-link every time you change name of file or move it to different album, which breaks everything you've ever posted. GRrrr..

 

[williamb82]

More pics.

IMAG6720~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

IMAG6725~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

IMAG6722~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

High flow 7mgte fuel rail.
IMAG6724~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

IMAG6726~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

IMAG6730~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

Lokar locking dipstick
IMAG6731~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

Walbro 525lph Hellcat pump
IMAG6718~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

Tial 50mm BOV
IMAG6735~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

Rear Focus AGX shocks
20160326_121122 by williamb82, on Flickr

Full set of Super Pro poly bushings
IMAG0988 by williamb82, on Flickr

Raptor racing rear camber kit
IMAG1637 by williamb82, on Flickr

Ichiban extended wheel studs
IMAG6721~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

New front control arms so I can box them in and install the poly bushings
IMAG6727~2 by williamb82, on Flickr


SW12 rear AGX strut inserts for the front.
IMAG6728~2 by williamb82, on Flickr


Proper reamer to ream the RA65 steering arms to fir the MA60 ball joints
IMAG6729~2 by williamb82, on Flickr


GM trans mounts to use as engine mounts
IMAG6733~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

 

[williamb82]

I found a front bearing retainer plate that fits the R154 that will let me use the LS1 T56 Internal slave. All bolt holes line up but the very top one. The bolts are only torque to 12ft/lbs so it is not structural. I believe that 1 bolt being out of it will be fine and it shouldn't leak.

IMAG6744~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

IMAG6738~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

Also, the clutch fork tab is touching the cover, I thought of grinding the rib on the cover down, but since I have several 7m R154 bell housings, and there is no real market for them, I am going to cut that tab off for clearance.

IMAG6737~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

I 'might" have to grind into the thick portion for room to get the 4AN fitting on the lower inlet. The upper fitting is 3AN so I am going to drill a hole in the bellhousing straight across from it and run the line through it and up under the hood to the remote bleeder I bought. It will make it very easy to bleed the clutch.

IMAG6741~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

s-l1600 by williamb82, on Flickr

610H7fAhngL.AC_SL1500 by williamb82, on Flickr

 

[williamb82]

Ok, so I dug out my empty r154 case with 7M bell housing. I cut the clutch fork tab off as close as I could then finished it up with a flap disc.

IMAG6745~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

IMAG6746~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

IMAG6747~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

This gained a lot of clearance, and now the bell housing no longer needs to be removed to install the front bearing retainer.

IMAG6748~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

IMAG6749~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

The slave cylinder now bolts flush to the bearing retainer, and has clearance for the 4AN hose fitting on the bottom inlet. I have caps on the AN fittings to keep the brake fluid from leaking out and so no oxidation occurs inside the unit.

IMAG6750~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

I am hoping to be able to run the 4AN inlet to a 4AN bulkhead where the stock slave normally comes in. I will cut a piece of aluminum sheet to mount it to. That way I can disconnect the feed at the bell housing when needed.

IMAG6751~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

IMAG6752~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

We have clearance Clarence!

IMAG6754~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

 

[Whitey482]

Good golly man! You have a beast of a build there! Is your long term plan to go 2JZ or are you sticking with the 7M? I see lots of 7M parts but hints of 2J here and there. What's your power goal on the 7M? Just curious.

Interesting spot for the oil filter. Definitely easy access but do you make a mess when changing it out? I have mine relocated to underneath the passenger headlight. Makes for a bit longer hose routing but working pretty well.

I also have the Lokar dipstick and haven't figured out a good way to mount it yet and also determine the correct length to ensure the reading is accurate like stock. I relocated the power steering pump to in front of the grill next to the passenger headlight so i have some room now on the exhaust side of the motor. But you also lose a good mounting point for the dipstick. Post some pics when you get that sorted out.

I'm running an FFIM with a 70mm aftermarket throttle body and I have been having idle issues. I'm using the stock TPS but just cant get it dialed in. Either idles too high or low and on cold start it just wants to die. Maybe it's the CSI or something. I'm about to just say F it and switch to a Q45 TB and TPS and call it a day. I'm on the stock ECU so don't have as many options as stand-alone.

Also, curious on your intercooler pipe routing. Have any pics of that?

Definitely following this build.

 

[williamb82]

Review of the turbo manifold I received from Sound Performance.

Sound Performance. Do not recomend. "Edit: Issue...

"EDIT: Larry corrected the issues and I am now very happy with my manifold!" I ordered a Sound performance F1 manifold for the 7MGTE in my 84 (pretty much the only company that still builds manifolds for the 7MGTE). I chose a twin scroll, and the individual runner EGT bung option. Since my...

www.celicasupra.com

Sound performance. I do not recomend. Edit:Issue resolved

"EDIT: Larry corrected the issues and I am now very happy with my manifold!" I ordered a Sound performance F1 manifold for the 7MGTE in my 84 (pretty much the only company that still builds manifolds for the 7MGTE). I chose a twin scroll, and theindividual runner EGT bung option. Since my...

www.supraforums.com

 

[williamb82]

@Whitey842, I have not mounted the I/C or piping yet. This is all just mock up on the old motor. I have a MS2 in the car, but the new engine will be getting a MS3 Pro. I have a 2JZGTE as well on the stand. I would like to find a 75-77 Celica to put my 6M with the HKS Weber kit, T56, and Mk1 axle in, and then put the 2JZGTE in my 86 MK2. Otherwise, I may put the 2JZGTE in a 03-04 V6 mustang and swap to a built 8.8 solid rear, full cage, sub frame connectors, etc....First though, I have to fix the turbo manifold I got from Sound Performance, and finish getting the garage cleaned out so I can strip my 84 down for stitch welding, full mock up, paint, etc..

As for the oil filter relocation, the one on the engine in the pics is going away. It worked fine as I would lay it in an empty oil pan before removing the filter, but on the new engine, it will have 10AN fittings right on the block for the oil pump feed and oil main return. I have an Earls billet oil filter mount and oil thermostat, but need to figure out where to mount them. I will wait untill I have the Intercooler mounted and I/C piping done, and the new radiator, 30 row oil cooler, etc.. installed. I also have to figure out where to mount the power steering reservoir, and which reservoir to run. I have found a couple after market ones that look nice, but i have to take measurements of possible mounting locations first.

 

[williamb82]

More pics. The oil pump drive shaft thrust plate with torington bearing from Technico.

IMAG6776~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

IMAG6774~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

Aluminum fuel pump block off for the block. Depending where my catch can ends up, I may weld a 12AN fitting to this to run another vent hose to the catch can.

IMAG6772~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

And Raptor Racing had these on sale about 2 weeks ago so I grabbed one, but likely will only install it for car shows to show off the adjustable cam gears and Gates Racing timing belt etc..

IMAG6764~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

 

[williamb82]

Drew this up to adapt a Ford PWM Idle valve to the Toyota IACV flange. It fits the 7m perfect. I will test it on the 2jzgte later today. I "think" the flange is the same. I will clean the sides up on a belt sander after I purchase one. I just cut this out of some 1/2in aluminum I had. I printed the sketch 1:1 and glued it to the aluminum so i could perfectly mark the hole centers with a center punch before cutting it out. They are all perfect.

I will use a new valve on the built engine of course. The nipple will get yanked out and the hole drilled and tapped for a 10AN fitting. I will run a 10AN hose to the I/C pipe that connects to the throttle body to ensure no possible way that I have a leak under boost.

241677585_10157740180821371_7328687992215874423_n~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

Print out glued on.

IMAG6849~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

Roughed out, holes drilled, tapped, and countersunk where needed.

IMAG6852~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

Bolted to my FFIM

IMAG6853~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

Ford valve bolted on

IMAG6856~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

IMAG6858~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

Even the port hole lines up perfect.

IMAG6863~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

 

[williamb82]

Well, Ive collected more parts. I STILL do not have my ARP Headstuds or Flywheel bolts yet.

Technico adjustable cam gears.
IMAG7542~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

IMAG7545~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

45PSI boost gauge.
IMAG7256~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

Motive gear R&P install kit for the 8.8 with the Timken bearing upgrade.

IMAG8044~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

Some of the parts I ordered for my wheels showed up today. Still waiting on the outer lips for the front, but got the rears, and all inner barrels. Specs are now 17x10.5 rear +3mm offset, and 17x8.5 front +3mm offset. I plan to run 255.40.17 front, and 315/35/17 drag radials rear.

IMAG8035~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

IMAG8037~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

IMAG8038 by williamb82, on Flickr

IMAG8040~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

IMAG8041 by williamb82, on Flickr

 

[williamb82]

Finally got my ARP head studs and flywheel bolts in October.

Drilled and tapped the IACV for the 10AN fitting.

Finally got my 334x32mm rotors machined for the front hubs. The bolts that will hold the SSR's together will clear the caliper without issue. I need to center the caliper perfectly and then weld the threaded bungs to the caliper brackets. I plan to put a bevel on the side next to the bracket so I get the strongest weld possible. Still need to glass bead and paint the front hubs, and then install the wheel studs when the ARP wheel studs arrive, and make some backing plates.

 

[williamb82]

My best man got me some Megan Racing adjustable strut rods that I plan to use on my other 84 MK2. This is a pic of them next to the 3T rods. The 3T rods are obviously beefier, but the Megans should hold up just fine as the rod is the same diameter as the stock one etc...

I also got the hardened washers machined to fit the rear outer CV's to allow the nut to be tq'ed properly. The truck CV's have a longer splined shaft than the c7 ZR1 Corvette so the splines stick through about 0.4in on the outside of the wheel hubs. These washers are 1/4in thick, so I will have to use 2 per hub.

I also got a billet 7075 aluminum oil pump drive gear. Shouldnt have to worry about it exploding and destroying my motor like the stock one does at high power levels.

 

[spud3861]

Looking good! In the photo of the machined front rotors, will the caliper ultimately sit closer to the center so the pad covers more of the rotor? I realize this is just a mock-up but just checking.

 

[williamb82]

No, that is where the caliper will ride. The caliper needs centered on the width of the rotor. It is just eyeballed in the pics.The max diameter rotor the calipers are rated for is 13in, these are 13.15. There will be a small amount on the interior of the rotor that wont get pad contact, but the full pad will contact the rotor. The part that will not get contact is luckily hidden by the SSR wheels. I have a full set of EBC Green stuff pads, and a full set of Wilwood BP-10 pads. Not sure which set I will use first. Still trying to find a comparison to see which one is less aggressive as I would prefer to use those for the rotor break in front and rear. I should have stuff some pads in it for mockup. I will do that once my front wheels are together. My front lips have the center hole 1mm too small, so I need to send them back to be touched up. Waiting on the company to email me back.

 

[williamb82]

2 sets of T3 Evolved steering knuckles, a set of 3T Evolved RCA's, and a set of 3T tie rod ends.

ARP wheel studs.

 

[gamble]

Love that techno toy tuning stuff, they go by T3 tho not 3T.

 

[williamb82]

Finally got the lips for my front wheels. 17x8.5 +3mm offset.

Also the IACV adapter I drew in Solidworks for the Ford PWM idle valve. I picked up the CNC'ed batch a few days ago. I have some for sale.