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upgrade the disc to a metalic disc and youll be fine.
 

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Well for only 325ish HP it isn't necessary to go to a metallic puck type disc. A full face organic with upgraded pressure plate will more than do the job, especially with an R154 clutch. The trade-offs just aren't worth it IMO. Poor driveability, noise, abuse to drivetrain components are all big negatives that I have personally been through. Now I have an awesome RPS clutch that is smooth, quiet(!) and will hold plenty of torque and HP. Just my 2 cents.
 

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i have a stock pressure plate and a 4 puck metalic disc. guess what, no noise, no harshness. it drives like a stock disck. just get one with a sprung hub like i did.
 

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Well, even if that's the case, how's your flywheel holding up? After 7K miles with a 6 puck mine is severely messed up. I believe this is due to the metallic compound of the disc friction surfaces. Since I have an aluminum flywheel I can get a replacement facing but that's still like $100+. If it was a stock cast iron flywheel it'd be garbage and flywheels aren't cheap. Even if you get a cheaper used flywheel, you usually have to have it resurfaced. Anywhoo my POV is that metallic puck clutches are good for the price but have many downsides and if you spend a little more up front on a nice full face clutch I think you're better off. Like I said before it's just my opinion from my experiences and I'm not saying that you're wrong but those are just your experiences. Different info is good for all so people can make up their minds.
 

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a nice full face clutch wont hald as much power as a pucked clutch, and my flywheel looks fine. erics on the other hand has a nice deep groove due to he has an unsprung clutch.
 

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William,

What brand sprung 4 puck metalic disc do you have ?

I just got a R154 today with a new asco clutch/pressure plate in it, all looks good, I just want to beef it up a little and from what you say the 4 puck is the way to go.

Also got the parts to put together a 1 piece drive shaft along with some 3.73 gears.

I just need the diff bearings and true-trac LSD as far as major parts go to convert to 1 piece drive shaft, R154 conversion and diff rebuild.

Scott
 

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its not a brand. had it built locally.
william
 

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How much did the custom made one cost you ?

Thanks,

Scott
 

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~$140.
 

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William,

I called a local clutch shop and they will make one for about the same.

The guy at the shop said the same as what you say.

He said he has made a load of these clutches and no one has complained about them being harsh, he said they are very close to stock on the engagment.

He said there isnt anything you can do to the R154 pressure plate and its stout enough as it is with one of these clutches.

I am getting it made in a few weeks.

Thanks for the info.

Scott
 

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there is something you can do to the plate. it costs ~$175 here. they weld something on the diaphram for more clamping pressure. not sure exactly what but it can be done.
 

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What trans mount did you guys end up using ?

The R154 has a mount on it from the MK3 and of course I have my old W58 trans mount as well.

The W58 mount looks shorter than the R154 mk3 mount.

It looks like the W58 would be better given it would lower the trans and give more clearance in the tunnel, but I dont know.

Thanks,

Scott
 

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sorry I didnt make that clear :) yes - the rubber mount thats sandwiched in the middle and bolts directly to the bottom of the trans and the top of the crossmember.

Scott
 

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I used the R154 mount and it works good.

Right now the trans isnt hitting anywhere but its rather close and I dont think I want to beat the trans tunnel/floorpan in anymore. I will put some washers like you did to lower the crossmember and that will give me plenty of slack for movement.

The driveshaft is done, I will be getting it monday, cost $160.00, not bad.

The clutch will be ready wednesday, so I will be putting it all in next saturday I imagine.

Now I need to order the true-trac and the rear rebuild kit and tackle that in a few weeks.

Cant wait to drive it!

Thanks for the help.

Scott
 

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Here are some pics of my clutch, 4 bronze and 2 fiber tuff pucks/paddles.

Its sprung, lighter than the stock clutch and should hold good.

The trans is all bolted up, I started it today, ran thru the gears on the jack stands and all seems well.

http://tinypic.com/19tdw3

http://tinypic.com/19th5f
 

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why bother with the fiber? wit hthe bronze pucks it wont smooth the engagment. id have gotten all the pucks bronze.
 

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According to the shop that built the clutch, having 4 ceramic/bronze and 2 fiber-tuff gives the cluth a smoother enagement over 6 ceramic/bronze pucks while still holding really well. They said if I was all out race then 6 ceramic/bronze would be the way to go.
 

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well, this clutch chatters like hell.

The car is not driveable in stop and go traffic, and I am afraid I am going to damage the drivetrain.

Its ok when its cold, but soon as you drive in some stop and go traffic and it warms up, its gets progressivley worse. To the point that the car is shaking violently.

Its not noisy, it has some decent slippage but the chatter is unreal.

I called the shop who built it and they say to give it a few weeks and it should smooth out. And to stay away from to much stop and go until its broken in.

We shall see...

Scott
 
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