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alot of bashing is gonna be required, and it will NOT fit up on one attempt - no shimming needed tho, just some slotting of the auto trans xmember, and the tunnel bashing

i pussied out and cut a flap that i welded a patch on top of, to give the extra clearance
 

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I finally got my R154 in and everything went pretty well. Thanks for all the help everyone! I only have two problems. One is that I get a noticable shake when pushing the clutch in and revving it. It shakes only when rpms are returning to idle. I plan to take it back to the guy that balanced the engine and clutch to find out the problem. The second problem is that my speedo registers 82 when I am really going 70. Since I have a 4.30 rear end, I will need a suitable internal tranny gear. How low of a rear end did the mk3's come with?
 

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the mkiii turbos all had 3.727's iirc.
 

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87/88 were 3.90
89+ was 3.73

I would look for truck R series trans. gears selection if it was me.
 

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Did the R series trucks have an R154 tranny (or interchangable parts)? Looks like the closest I could get would be a 3.90 internal tranny gear going with an MK3 gear.
 

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They had R (R155 IRC) series transmissions in the 4x4 V6s not specifically R154s though.
 

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They had R (R155 IRC) series transmissions in the 4x4 V6s not specifically R154s though.
They're R150 and R151F. The 151F is for the 22rte truck engine, with a much shorter 1st gear.

The trannies in the Tacomas are different than previous generation V6 truck trannies, though they're still considered the same tranny (R150).

Another issue is the input shaft length. In the Tacoma tranny, the input shaft length is similar to the length on the R154. R154, R150 (new/old) and W58 trans comparison pic-

http://www.rabidchimp.com/aaron/Aaron's Vehicles/1990 Toy Truck 7mgte/Trans Comparisons/P1010039.jpg

I don't know if any 2wd Tacomas came with the R150 trans, but that would be your tranny of choice if you were in it for different gears, since the back half of the R154 and 4x4 trannies are just so different. A smart guy could probably take them all apart, and mix-match parts. I'm not that smart yet.
-Aaron
 

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How long and what kind of hammer did you use when beating out your drive train tunnel?

I've been working on my for about 2 hours and haven't made much of a dent..

I'm weak haha..
 

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If it doesn't move, get a bigger hammer!!
 

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Haha True I went from a standard hammer to a sledge hammer.. I'm still not making much of a dent in it. I guess our cars are pretty strong or I'm just really weak.
 

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I tried a regular claw hammer and a 3 pound sledge hammer, but neither one would work. It's not easy laying on your back with the car on jacks and trying to swing a hammer. I went and bought a $15 propane torch from the hardware store, heated it and then beat it out with a claw hammer. That seemed to work better than the sledge hammer. You will have to heat it for several minutes before it will bend. You might want to slip something non flammable between the carpet and the tunnel on the opposite side of where you are beating so as not to ruin the carpet.
 

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How long and what kind of hammer did you use when beating out your drive train tunnel?

I've been working on my for about 2 hours and haven't made much of a dent..

I'm weak haha..

i put the trans crossmemeber in place, then set a small cheapo hydraulic jack i got from walmart in the tunnel on top of it. then jacked it and put the round part where it needed beat out. jacked it till it flexed out further then it needed to go, then released the jack and it sprang back alot, did this a few times till it finally stayed out enough for it to fit right. lol. twisted the whole frame of the jack so it is a permanent 3 wheelin. lol. it was $20 so worth the time it saved even though i ended up tossing it.
 

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Thanks Keith P and William. I'll try those ideas today, one of them should work :D

Thanks for the insight.
 

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make shore you take off or unbolt your plastic shifter trim in the car when doing this as you can crack it. I used heat and a hammer
Thanks for the tip Dave! I didn't even think about that, good thing I took it out to drop my w58 3 months ago haha.. I'm slow.

I'm going to heat it up tonight and hopefully it'll work a little faster. :)

Thanks again.
 

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Mine is all in and working well, but is kind of sticky when shifting. I guess I will drive it a while and then have it rebuilt someday. I have a vibration and a knock somewhere, so I took it to the mechanic that rebuilt the engine. They listened to it and said they thought it was a bad bearing in the front of the transmission causing the shaft to vibrate, but I'm not so sure. I know one thing though; I do NOT want to remove that transmission again.
One of the small problems I am having now is that the shifter is so far back that the leather boot will not stay in place on the stock shifter. Any suggestions as to how to keep it in place?
 

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diff setup

dave, i was just wondering if you had any pics of your diff setup and what truck this came out of. does the whole 3rd member bolt in place of the supra diff? also is this from the front of an ifs truck. maybe im not understanding your post. but i believe if you use a front diff in the rear of a vehicle or vise versa the force will be applied to the back of the ring gear wich can be a possible weakness. Im not sure about this, i was just interested in other opinions and how you setup your differential. thanks
 
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