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quick ?

did you guys use the mk3 R154 shifter and boot or the mk2 W58 shifter and boot. just wondering cause the holes dont line up when using the R154 shifter, but this could be because my car was an auto?


also Dave, do you have measurements for the SS clutch line you made up? did you make it your self? wanna make me one? :woot: thanks



-resto
 

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The shifters are the same except the Mk3 ones are black. If you are talking about the hole in the chassis for the shifter you need to cut it to the rear about an 1-1/2"
 

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3+" sounds like twice too much. Also on the shifter make sure to get a JK shifter for the R154 swap. If you use the stock shifter you'll probably bust the center like I did. The JK shifter pushes the pivot point up so the lever doesn't come anywhere near the center console.
 

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Damn. :( I'll double check. I'll be looking for one of the JK shifters as you recommend.

Thanks for the info,
Leon
 

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I just had to pull my R154 to get to the clutch. I just barely had the clearance to get it out by dropping the rear of the tranny as low as it would go, but it looks like I am going to have to drop the differential to get it back in. I must have had the drive shaft made a little too long is all I can figure. What a pain!
 

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anyone try or think of a a slip section like the 4wd guys use. that would make removal of the one piece easy. but then again i dont know much about them as far as how much power they will take and also the cost of making one. just thought i'd add this casue im going to get the driveshaft made next week and i want to have this figured out by then. thanks
 

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I cant get mine out or in with out dropping the diff or moving the motor... I duno how you got yours out!!!
VERY CAREFULLY, but I won't try it again. I lowered the tail shaft as far as it would go and slid it out (with a little scraping here and there). I had to replace the pilot bearing also because I broke it when lowering the tailshaft.

How much of the differential do you unbolt when removing your tranny?
 

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R154 Fabricated Cover Plate

This worked pretty well, and the best thing about it is that I didn't have to modify the rubber boot mounting ring at all. I used the two existing threaded screws in the front and sheet metal screws for the other four holes. The two middle sheet metal screws just barely catch the floor sheet metal, but it holds the boot down well.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd195/kpsupra/S7000755.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd195/kpsupra/S7000756.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd195/kpsupra/S7000754.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd195/kpsupra/S7000752.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd195/kpsupra/S7000753.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd195/kpsupra/S7000750.jpg
 

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damn good idea. since i got the aluminum sheet metal out to make my gauge panel ill go ahead and cut a piece out for this as well. lol. might as well do it now.
 

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i got my drive shaft half back from the fab guy today. worked out sweet. i used the mk3/R154 front half and had him cut 1 and 1/8" off and reweld it. then i swapped the 4 bolt flange end from the auto front shaft to the R154 front half. works perfect and the center berring holes mount up perfect. clears the brake lines in the tunnel and the E brake cables ect. was an easy set up and cost me 30 bucks for the cut and weld. lets see if it holds up to some launches :woot:
 

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i got my drive shaft half back from the fab guy today. worked out sweet. i used the mk3/R154 front half and had him cut 1 and 1/8" off and reweld it. then i swapped the 4 bolt flange end from the auto front shaft to the R154 front half. works perfect and the center berring holes mount up perfect. clears the brake lines in the tunnel and the E brake cables ect. was an easy set up and cost me 30 bucks for the cut and weld. lets see if it holds up to some launches :woot:
i'm interested in hearing how this goes. may be a cheap alternative for me until i get a 1pc. that's something else holding me back right now from getting the swap done.
 

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i was told by a very reputable mk2 owner that unless your planing on going over 400 or are going to beat the snot outta your car (hard launches) a 2 peice is the way to go.
 

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i got my drive shaft half back from the fab guy today. worked out sweet. i used the mk3/R154 front half and had him cut 1 and 1/8" off and reweld it. then i swapped the 4 bolt flange end from the auto front shaft to the R154 front half. works perfect and the center berring holes mount up perfect. clears the brake lines in the tunnel and the E brake cables ect. was an easy set up and cost me 30 bucks for the cut and weld. lets see if it holds up to some launches :woot:
anymore about this? how's it working out? why did you have to use an auto flange? what's the difference, and is that a must?
 

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anymore about this? how's it working out? why did you have to use an auto flange? what's the difference, and is that a must?
its pretty simple if you think about it. you need a flange that will bolt to your diff. you need a flange that will bolt to your trans. and you need to measure the distance inbetween them. thats how you know what to take out.
 

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its pretty simple if you think about it. you need a flange that will bolt to your diff. you need a flange that will bolt to your trans. and you need to measure the distance inbetween them. thats how you know what to take out.
but why the auto flange instead of the manual one it comes with? i didn't understand why you had to change the flange. i thought it just needed to be shortened.
 

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Does anyone know what year truck you need to find to get the upgraded rear flange for the stock MKII Diff? I need to know what to look for this weekend.

I've heard the MKII driveshafts have non-replaceable u-joints is this correct?

I've also heard you can use the front 1/2 driveshave out of a MKIII mated to the back half of a MKII shaft is that correct as well? I'm looking for a setup where I can carry an entire spare driveshaft for the AKA Rally in case I rip out a u-joint.
 

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I would not call it an upgrade, nor do the bolt holes match the stock Mk2 driveline. Its from a 88-94 v6 (maybe four cylinder too) truck (probably newer too). It'll come off of the front diff.
-Aaron
 
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