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POTATO
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Our driveshafts have U-Joints that need to be staked in. A lot of driveshaft places don't stake in u-joints anymore, so while you can still BUY the u-joints for our cars, it's hard to find someone to install them
 

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is awesome
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Well the years are clear enough, however the front vs. back is still confusing. Both people whom I trust are telling me differen t things. Is it simply...
88-94 4-Wheel Drive (4-cylinder) FRONT and
88-94 2-Wheel Drive (V6-cylinder) REAR
 

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After reading through the previous 14 pages, I do have one question that I didn't see asked. When you say the stock driver side motor to trans mount doesn’t fit, which one do you need to fit? Assuming I want to use all the bolt holes on the bell housing.
 

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One from a 7MGTE with R154.
 

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i have a brand new w58 stage 2 clutch but i just bought an r154 and am not sure if it matters that my clutch was for an w58. also i checked and my driveshaft slides perfect into the r154, even though this thread said it dosnt? and will my driveshaft from my w58 not work because it seemed like it would. Thanks.
 

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You need a clutch that matches the gearbox (so a W58 clutch won't work for a R154) and the proper flywheel for the gearbox and engine combo (one for a R154 to M engine in your case)
 

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Clutch disc will work...pressure plate won't.

I'm running raptor racing's feramic W58 clutch disc with my R154, I'm just using a different PP.

Also the front half of a Mk3 auto transmission drive shaft attached to your Mk2 W58 rear section driveshaft will work...make sure you also use a Mk2 auto transmission crossmember.
 

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Couple tips as I am in the middle of my R154 swap.

1. Do the test fits before putting the pilot bearing or flywheel on. Much easier to do a couple test fits when you do not have to get the transmission over the flywheel and perfectly lined up on the pilot bearing.

2. I tried the air hammer, claw hammer, 10 lbs slide hammer, and even some mild blow torch. The tunnel did not budge. I decided to do a twist on William's idea. I went to Walmart and bought a 2 ton bottle jack for $15. I installed the manual transmission cross member. I then wedged the jack in and pressed it up against all the areas I marked on the first test fit. I pushed the tunnel out as far as the jack allowed. It rebounded back a decent bit after I released it. Did this several times on several different points of each side where I wanted to expand it. Next test fit was perfect. Total time was 30 minutes.

Hope this helps others.

-John
 

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I installed the manual transmission cross member. I then wedged the jack in and pressed it up against all the areas I marked on the first test fit. I pushed the tunnel out as far as the jack allowed. It rebounded back a decent bit after I released it. Did this several times on several different points of each side where I wanted to expand it.
That's exactly what I did! Worked like a charm and required no heat, moving of carpet, etc... I can't say it took 30 minutes though :/, definitely took me a couple hours. But I put the car as high as I could in the air, put the trans on a trans jack and test fitted that way... then cut the section out for the shifter hole.
 

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FUCK ME!!!! Took forever on my Supra. Trans hall did not want to budge! BUT I AM NOW A R-154 MK2!!!

Anyway I highly recommend using a cylnder jack like the guys have been talking as of late. IT WORKS!!! Dont get discouraged because it bounces back into shape. Keep at it and push in the high points. I dont have pics to help but it WILL WORK.

My work time for me was 8+ HRS!!!

Thats me for not having all the right tools.
 
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