Our driveshafts have U-Joints that need to be staked in. A lot of driveshaft places don't stake in u-joints anymore, so while you can still BUY the u-joints for our cars, it's hard to find someone to install them
Well the years are clear enough, however the front vs. back is still confusing. Both people whom I trust are telling me differen t things. Is it simply...
88-94 4-Wheel Drive (4-cylinder) FRONT and
88-94 2-Wheel Drive (V6-cylinder) REAR
After reading through the previous 14 pages, I do have one question that I didn't see asked. When you say the stock driver side motor to trans mount doesn’t fit, which one do you need to fit? Assuming I want to use all the bolt holes on the bell housing.
i have a brand new w58 stage 2 clutch but i just bought an r154 and am not sure if it matters that my clutch was for an w58. also i checked and my driveshaft slides perfect into the r154, even though this thread said it dosnt? and will my driveshaft from my w58 not work because it seemed like it would. Thanks.
Couple tips as I am in the middle of my R154 swap.
1. Do the test fits before putting the pilot bearing or flywheel on. Much easier to do a couple test fits when you do not have to get the transmission over the flywheel and perfectly lined up on the pilot bearing.
2. I tried the air hammer, claw hammer, 10 lbs slide hammer, and even some mild blow torch. The tunnel did not budge. I decided to do a twist on William's idea. I went to Walmart and bought a 2 ton bottle jack for $15. I installed the manual transmission cross member. I then wedged the jack in and pressed it up against all the areas I marked on the first test fit. I pushed the tunnel out as far as the jack allowed. It rebounded back a decent bit after I released it. Did this several times on several different points of each side where I wanted to expand it. Next test fit was perfect. Total time was 30 minutes.
I installed the manual transmission cross member. I then wedged the jack in and pressed it up against all the areas I marked on the first test fit. I pushed the tunnel out as far as the jack allowed. It rebounded back a decent bit after I released it. Did this several times on several different points of each side where I wanted to expand it.
That's exactly what I did! Worked like a charm and required no heat, moving of carpet, etc... I can't say it took 30 minutes though :/, definitely took me a couple hours. But I put the car as high as I could in the air, put the trans on a trans jack and test fitted that way... then cut the section out for the shifter hole.
FUCK ME!!!! Took forever on my Supra. Trans hall did not want to budge! BUT I AM NOW A R-154 MK2!!!
Anyway I highly recommend using a cylnder jack like the guys have been talking as of late. IT WORKS!!! Dont get discouraged because it bounces back into shape. Keep at it and push in the high points. I dont have pics to help but it WILL WORK.
Looking to buy a 6mge crank pulley/harmonic balancer as mine has cracked where the ac belt is held in. Located in WA but willing to pay shipping for sure. Let me know if you got anything or could help me out in locating one, I cant seem to find one anywhere. Thanks in advance!
what's up gang...? i have been searching for proper hood props. are they available anywhere? the ball joint at the hood end and then the bolt anchors the "factory" eyelet end to the inside of the fender...can't find them anywhere. thank you.
this is a thread of somewhat commonly needed tips and tricks. i will add more to it as i think of them.
CRANK PULLEY BOLT REMOVAL!
best way to remove or tighten that bolt(no nic's on the inside of the block or on the rod, etc..)
step 1: remove the timing belt from the cam gears, then line the...
Symptom: A couple of days before my power steering went totally out, I had noticed some groaning from the power steering when I had the wheel hard over. After making a U-turn to park in front of the house, the power steering died. Fortunately I wasn’t on a twisty road somewhere. The next...