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Wow Rick, that is almost naked !

I hope both bumpers will also be removed for final paint.

Also, if you have other wheels to put on, as fumes can get in from behind, and gosh these meshies could be difficult to clean !

You did great so far :good:
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Wow Rick, that is almost naked !

I hope both bumpers will also be removed for final paint.
thanks.. Yes, the bumpers will be removed to paint. They are basically on the car with a couple bolts to hold them on while I drove it to the shop. I was very happy to see that my sunroof panel was in very good condition (after removing the gasket) and the gasket itself was also still in very good condition and will be re-used.

I don't have any other wheels, so just have to hope for the best and deal with it. The shop is a restoration shop and not just a run of the mill body work place, so they are well equipped and experienced to do the job right.

The windshield will have to come off, as when i removed the trim I found some rust along the top of the windshield frame, nothing to bad, but glad I found it now rather than later (... if it was not for the wreck, I would not have removed the trim and not found the rust).

For the next month or so until the car is done, I'll be doing cleaning of all the parts I removed and repainting the trim pieces and making some small repairs (like one of the PEM nuts on the door handle that is broken) and other things.


Although the rear hatch window gasket was still pretty soft, I decided to spend the $300 for a new one from Techno Toy Tuning (thanks George!)

https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/ma60?cat=3

Rick
 

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Nice, you're doing it right!

Glad you are saving this one, accidents happen, it doesn't always have to be the end of the car.
If the insurance companies had their way, it would be! I had similar damage to my small Ford Fiesta in 2012, I wasn't even driving it at the time (lent it to my mother) but despite the fact that the mechanical aspects were perfect and I'd personally put 50,000 miles on the car, the insurance company decided it wasn't worth repairing and wrote it off. I loved that car :sadsmilie


Rick - those photos were painful to look at, but I'm so pleased you held out and got the insurance company to do the right thing. Praying that no serious damage is discovered as they fix the body panels - hopefully from the way it was shunted, it didn't distort anything structural, and the cosmetic aspects are repairable.

If anything like this ever happened to Dragon (god forbid, it's locked in a garage with thick walls!!), I would fight tooth and nail to get it repaired.
 

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This is every supra owners fears, I'm sorry things are always tough. Hopefully it will come out alright, and glad that you got a higher quote.
This is why I plan to insure my car through a classic insurance at or near its sell value, so if some idiot decides to run a red like and plow into me, which happened recently in my lexus. That I can atleast get my money out of my car and not get shafted. Which insurance doesn't care if you get your money or not, you have to fight for it and cover your butt. Good luck with the repairs.
 

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
It was a struggle, but they were finally able to pull out the quarter panel crease and have it stay out. Pulling on the corner of the chassis, they could get the crease to pop out, but when tension was release it would want to close back up. They tried a couple other areas of removing some welds, and removed the jack stand holder inside the qrt panel. but in the end I'm told they found the wheel well was a little squashed flat slightly in the area just behind the wheel where the mudflap is located, so after pulling out that, the quarter panel crease then stayed out. He said the left frame rail was also pushed down ~1 inch, which was also corrected. We had the tail lights on, an the hatch closed, and it is all aligning up well. There is still some work needed on the rear corner, the qrt panel, and tail light area, but its moving along. next will be the front corner which is no big deal and then trying to pull down on the passenger rocker panel that got pushed upwards, but this first major hurtle seems accomplished.





 

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Rick, Thanks for the update Buddy!! I'm feeling it moving forward!!
 

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That description is why I was so pessimistic at first. Its an iterative process. I've heard these frame shops do sometimes have to throw in the towel if after a few tries it looks like they're going to go way past the insurance estimate. I'm glad this part is now done and we can all breath a collective sigh of relief.
 

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Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
Its an iterative process. I've heard these frame shops do sometimes have to throw in the towel if after a few tries it looks like they're going to go way past the insurance estimate.
Once the damage from the accident has been resolved, I've asked for an update on what the labor is at that point. Then I can better decided on which course of action to go. Of course, my hope/plan to to have the entire car repainted, but in truth its too soon to say. I worked as much as I could removing all the trim and interior and stuff, to make the insurance money go as far as possible.


The shop is http://www.lelandsautomotive.com/

Its a father and son team. They repainted the front end of my 92 a couple years ago. They always have some nice stuff in the shop and usually some rare vehicles too. While i was there, someone just dropped off a 60's VW split window bus for a full restoration, that they pulled out of the redwoods up in the mountains nearby...parked for who knows how long.

Rick
 

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Nice, looks like its coming along! This quater damage was certainly the biggest risk to saving it. I once acquired a super low mileage mint 85 that had been written off from the exact same damage. The car was fixable too, guess the owner didn't fight hard enough.

Hey..


Have them pull the seal off and inspect the weld seam where the rear apron attaches to the inner quater panel under the seal. Its a common rust spot there, it might just be starting on your car, perfect time to nip it in the butt before it becomes a problem. Same on the other side.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Have them pull the seal off and inspect the weld seam where the rear apron attaches to the inner quater panel under the seal. Its a common rust spot there, it might just be starting on your car, perfect time to nip it in the butt before it becomes a problem. Same on the other side.
Checked and everything looks good down in there on both sides, no signs of rust starting.


More progress.... The corner is still not quite right, and he has more work to align it up with the hatch (which is a replacement hatch, so it too may be tweaked here and there, as I got if from a yard). Once I get it back, I'll probably have to adjust the latch, and maybe adding a washer here or there under the hinges on the roof (per the TSRM) to get the hatch to align properly, but its looking pretty good so far.





The entire pass rear Qrt was actually replaced sometime in the 80's from an accident. It actually had a clear coat of varnish on it, so the work you see here is not from this recent damage. Up on the pass door and fender are some damage/repairs from the accident, and under the rocker panel which you can't see.

 

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Discussion Starter #53
So as I wait for the car, there's lots of small repairs and upgrades to make of course and now is the time. Here is a little trick I discovered, perhaps its already known, but at any rate.

On the pass side door handle, had the rubber protective covering over the push rod was worn and torn allowing the internals of the switch to be exposed to moisture and dirt. I searched around at local hardware and supply stores for a small rubber replacement cap of some sort with no luck, and then though of using one of the little green light condoms and it worked great. This cover can be found inside the Cruise Main switch on the right of the gauge cluster. I had a switch already torn apart, so I pulled of the green covering. Not sure if these are located elsewhere on the MKII , but if you happen to have a MKIII laying around, these can be easily obtained from the green courtesy light in the driver foot/pedal area. In fact, the little bulb is exposed and you just need to pull of the green cover, simple.... well kind of, they sometimes get cooked on over time, and they tear when trying to remove, but I've taken several off quite easily as well.

Here is the switch and the damaged original covering:



Here is the green cover that you will have to trim slightly with razor, be careful not to take too much off, if not sure work in small removal steps, but I got luck on the first try and this is a proper amount to remove:



Then with tweezers or similar pull off all the old deteriorated rubber, and place the new cover over. It sits perfectly (assuming you did not trim too much off).



Then you want to secure it to the switch with an adhesive. I decided to use ultra gray, as I use it for a lot of applications and had a tube already opened, it does not run, and it somewhat pliable when cured. I think whatever you use, do not go with something like super glue or an epoxy that cures hard without any flexibility. I used a small paint brush to apply it complete around where the new cover rests on the switch.



You can attack the back side of it from the rear under the tab:



all done, let dry, and now the switch should be well protected for a while now. I'm going to check the other switches of this type and do the same... if I can find enough green rubber caps lying around.



Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Almost there.. Should have it by end of next week. The color match looks great. 2 coats of color and 3 clear coats. The cost of the paint (just the color) was $1,500 a gallon (their cost and that not including the additives..hardener, etc.) Even the shop was not expecting that, as they estimated it at about half that amount. Something to do with the color they say, but It took 2 gallons, about 1.3 for the car, and the rest for the removed parts, bumpers, sunroof, etc..

They had estimated the total for paint materials to be ~$3,000, it is $5,000. Thankfully, that additional cost won't be pushed on to me, as they are honoring the initial estimate. Whew...

My goal was to reproduce the color (of course) and all paint characteristics just as OEM, so by that I mean, the black that runs around the bottom, the rockers, and the lower part of the rear bumper (which is not done yet). They also very nicely reproduced the texture on on the lower portion of the doors, fenders...the rock chip stuff. I've seen some supras repainted with that lower section like the rest of the car, and I never liked it... again trying to me as stock as possible here.

Anyway, here it is :











 

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Sooo glad it comes back!!
I wish I had some pictures from my restoration, but I sent it away pulled apart and people didn't take that many pics in the late 90's.. :p
 

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Discussion Starter #58
You are a brave man letting all that work be done on those beautiful wheels. Love that they are honoring the quote and the level of work being done man, this is awesome.
That red on the wheels is not new paint, its old paint dust, wipes off fairly easily. no worries.
 

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Still agree with gamble lol. I've not had good experience with overspray from paint shops.

The paint cost seems ridiculously excessive. I just sprayed a Supra in 2014 with water base clear and all and the cost was less then that with the labor for spraying it even. I mean, it was much more then simpler cars and others I've had done in the past, but nothing near that. Usually paint supplies to spray a car in base//clear is under 700bucks complete, and this is nothing fancy in this paint color. Its the pearl additives and such that drive the cost up usually.

Anyways, you didn't get hose so that's good, and the car looks great! This thread is an excellent inspiration for those on the fence about fixing or salvaging their accident cars.
 
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