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twin torbo

Hey I like your setup. I wouldnt listen to other people when its your car
and not theirs. I also have a twin turbo set up. I am using an original from
HKS made back in the 80's. I found it completely unused and forgotten about.
I am still using the 5m head ported with oversized valves. My block is a 7mgte
with arias pistons and all ARP fasteners. I am using a Toyota computer to
run it right now but I also have a Haltech E6X. I hope you have good luck with
your torbo. but I think that manifold was made for the factory toyota ct20 with
the 3 bolt flange. are you going to cut and weld a new flange or make a flange adaptor?
 

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Things have been real slow over here (dead is a more suitable word...) but I don't wanna start whining again. I have removed my oil pan and placed a crank teflon scraper that I got from IJ from down under. Funny thing is that IJ didn't need it anymore cause he swapped his 7m crank with a 6m one and this is a 7m crank designated scraper. The irony is that by the looks of it I have a 6m crank in my motor also...:duh: :facesjump! Oh well, it seems that there aren't any fittment issues;
Yes, the only difference between the 6m and 7m scraper is in that one small area on two piston bays. You could grind a 6m to fit a 7m very easily -- same thing for adjusting a Teflon version.
 

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Discussion Starter · #247 · (Edited)
And another thing on my build. I'm about to take my R154 gearbox, my chro-moly flywheel, the cluth disc, the driveshaft, my TruTrak and ring and pinion gears as well as my ss exhaust manifold, turbos and all pulleys and cam gears for cryogenic treatment. I have read and heard some pretty decent comments on benefits of the procedure so since everything is out of the car and have been freshly rebuilt (gearbox, newly assembled diff, rebuilt turbos) I guess it's a good opportunity to do this now.

Any advice, tips or comments that I should know of prior to sending these out?
 

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Hi I read your post about cryo treatment for your gear box gears etc.
I do cryogenic metal treating in the U.S. and have seen great improvements in life of many parts from cutting tools to gears, blocks,axles etc,. Cryo parts also don`t gain size from warm to hot which can be a great advantage in tight tolerance situations. I f you want a quote tell me how much the parts weigh and i`ll get you a price in U.S.D. quick.

I have a 84 p type 6mgt I`m building now and the whole motor was cryo`d and of course retempered.
The retempering is a critical step in ferrous metal treating.
WITHOUT RETEMPERING THE PARTS ARE VERY BRITTLE AND DANGEROUS.
AFTER CRYO AND RETEMPERING THEY ARE VERY VERY TOUGH... NOT MUCH CHANGE IN HARDNESS BUT THERE WEAR RESISTANCE GOES UP DRAMATICALLY.
 

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I'm impressed with the work in this thread so far, I (and many others I'm sure) really hope you finish this. I came across this thread (then read the whole thing) when I was trying to find out info on the turbos used for the original HKS 5m twin kit. I was looking at what twins would be suitable for a twin 7m project of my own.

This is the closest I've found to a completed 7m twin project and I can see why, an awful lot of custom work involved, but thats to be expected.
I really hope you stick with this and get it done, I would really love to see a twin'd 7m RUNNING especially in a MKII chassis.
Good Luck to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #251 ·
I know it's been quite a while since my last update but due to some family and personal issues I was kept offline for the last few months. Nontheless there's been some progress.

Actually there's been quite some work done on my custom fuel tank.
So based on my carton mock up:




we went on making this
















You can see above the baffling incorporated in the tank as well as the position intended for my Bosch 044 fuel pump.



This is the top side after we welded it up:














I also had some strap guides welded at the bottom:








And here it is finished (or so I thought back then...) after all flanges are welded in place:











This is the fuel pump hanger:








So that looks all good, right? Or so I thought as I had also believed that I thought everything out thoroughly beforehand. Well after having a chat with Aaron (aka SilverMk2 - and BTW thanks so much for all the help and info my friend, I really appreciate it!) and taking a better look of the stock fuel tank (which everyone would expect that I would have already done...) I realised that the ideal position for the fuel pump should be nearby the stock location that is on the highest and deeper part of the tank, that's the raised area of the tank where I had the two small flanges located. This location would also allow for a better, straight vertical positioning of the fuel pump as it's deep enough instead of the iffy former positioning of the first location. Another issue that arised after I test fitted the tank was the location of the fuel loading pipe. That was fouling the chassis rail and needed to bo located about 2 inches lower.

So I went back to my "not so pleased to see me" machine shop guy and convinced him to re-operate on my tank. We cut off the area where the two small flanges were and made a small fuel pump baffle tank:











I then had the fuel loading pipe relocated and incorporated a vent pipe that I forgotten to in the first place:





Here's the vent pipe on the inside:




and this is how close it is to the top of the tank:





Here's the top welded, the fuel pump opening cut in and the small gas ventilation flange welded in place:




I will incorporate the fuel level sending unit on the fuel pump hanger cap so they both come out as one unit. We have not done the hanger yet as my machinist/welder is crazy busy at the moment and I really don't wanna be pushing my luck with him if you know what I mean ;) .

I have also cut an opening on my hatch floor area so that the fuel pump and level sending unit can come out through the inside of the car without having to remove the whole tank of its place in case something brakes down.

BTW the tank's capacity is roughly 57-60 litres so that's at least as big as stock.
 

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Bosch 044!

...if someone would make a Bosch044-w58 bellhousing, I'd ditch the 5m and go electric. I hear that thing has a 5hp motor inside it and is often used as a jet pump in smaller seadoos...

--billyM
 

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This project is still the ultimate in my book.
 

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Those are some awesom welds on that tank!

Can't wait to hear you finally get this Twin setup final finished!

So what sort of evil plans do you have my old brake rotor? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #260 ·
Thanks for all the compliments guys. That bit of reassurance is good especially when I go so far out of the box and in most cases against most of the purists standards!

Leon I will be only using the sidewall of the rear rotor (actual parking brake inner contact area). The plan is to incorporate it in an aluminum modular bell for the rear rotors.
 
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