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Hey Seamus I am nearly there. I have my rear seats fitted and just got my passenger seat back today. One more to go and I will hook up some photos. I gota say they look totaly baddass. I can't wait to get the drivers seat back and take it for spin.
My only problem is the rear quarter panel white vinal. I can't seem to raise a reply from Nancy. I just need a half square meter to replace my stained one. Are you going down to NAL any time soon.
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Crap, forgot about that Pat. Was just there. Nancy doesn't work at NAL anymore. Ask for Dan or Steve. I imagine they still have some left. I can give them a call for you if you can't get through via email
 

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Dangerous Ken said:
Try some charcoal lighter fluid (the 'helper' to start the coals for the steaks) on the tire stains.

Ken
Ken I already tried white spirit and several other cleaning products. Even the guy fitting my seats tried with vinyl cleaning solution and nothing seams to work.

What's makes you think lighter fluid will work. I will try anything at this point.
 

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SupraFiend said:
Crap, forgot about that Pat. Was just there. Nancy doesn't work at NAL anymore. Ask for Dan or Steve. I imagine they still have some left. I can give them a call for you if you can't get through via email
Seamus, is it the same email address as the one I have comes up as Nancy.
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Used to clean 'used' solid propellant rocket motor casings with it.
The propellants are in a rubber binder, and the resulting residue on the walls is burnt rubber, among other things.

If the stain is on the surface of the vinyl, something will take it off.
If the stain is a result of friction, burnt into the vinyl itself, nothing will take it out.

Ken
 

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Dangerous Ken said:
Used to clean 'used' solid propellant rocket motor casings with it.
The propellants are in a rubber binder, and the resulting residue on the walls is burnt rubber, among other things.

If the stain is on the surface of the vinyl, something will take it off.
If the stain is a result of friction, burnt into the vinyl itself, nothing will take it out.

Ken
It should not be burnt on. I only carried the tyres about 15 miles while I had my back seats out so I could get them fitted.
 

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Chrome Seatback Trim Source?

I know this is not directly related to the seat leather group buy (got mine in a couple weeks ago; can't wait to get it all installed!), but have come across a needed item for the 'restoration' and was wondering if some one has already found a good source.

I'd like to replace that chrome trim around the backs of each of the two front seats (that half-round clip-on plastic material). I have found *similar* material in the local car parts stores, but it all seems a little bit narrower than the OEM trim. I did find one (for some truck trim) that was just the right width, but it was only available in shorter strips which were not quite long enough to do one seatback (don't want to 'splice' sections together to do one seat).

I suspect that several other folks may have already crossed this bridge, and if so, was hoping those folks will be willing to share their sources/solutions.

TIA!

Earl Cagle
Augusta, GA
 

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Discussion Starter #51
There’s been a few of instances of people having issues getting the bolsters and the head rest posts to look good after installing them themselves. I have a fair bit of info in the guide about how to deal with many of these issues already, but I will try and add a little to that here.

Using a silicone spray on the foam to help lubricate things is very handy with these 2 problem pieces. The skin will slide along the foam instead of stick to it when your doing your fitting with some lubrication. This can really help with stretching a skin around 3 or 4 sides of a chunk of foam. One of the biggest problems with getting the shoulders to look right is lining up the stitched edges with the actual corners on the foam. You may have to take a few tries at it to get it right. If your convinced the tabs that hold the piece on are not positioned ideally, removing them and re-stitching them on may be the best thing. My experience has been that the individual pieces are cut and stitched in the proper shapes, its just that it takes a lot of stretching and fitting to get them to line up right and in some cases I was able to get a better fit with my preproduction pieces by re-stitching the tabs on. The spray can really help with lining things up however. Someone mentioned to me that they broke a zipper on the headrest skin using the method I detailed in the guide. The spray can help with preventing that as well as the skin will not bunch up and should slide over the foam a little better and more evenly distribute the tension across the head rest.

As for the bolsters, I had plenty of trouble there too. The pattern should have been adjusted after the original problems I had as mine just plain did not fit. There definitely is some variation in how the foam survives all these years. The original leather ones tend to be shrunken a bit more then the cloth ones (thought the cloth foam dries out more). The re-humidifying trick might help a lot in this case. If nothing you do can make the bolster skin fill up properly, there’s only a couple options as I mentioned in the guide. Adding material, whether it be installing the new skins over the olds ones (might want to try that Aaron as you said your old leather was still pretty decent), or adding foam or fill. Last, you can try re-stitching the mounting tabs a little higher up to tighten up the fit. And if you get a corner that just won’t stay down with all the original mounting locations used, try pulling on the leather on the back side to see if putting pressure on one spot will tuck that corner in the way you want. And if that works, drill a couple holes to give another hog ring a place to mount or try using a screw. Not my favorite methods at all but I’ve seen them used for this before.
 

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Finally getting back around to this here are some photos:

This is the drivers seat which fits by far the best;





You can see the wrinkling across the back and front faces. You can also see the "pouches" on the bottom inside corner of the side bolsters. I'm not too worried about this, it looks like NAL needs to cut the skin differently here.

These are the pass pieces:





They fit nice on the side and top, but again the back and front are horribly wrinkled.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I had very similar issues during my first installation, for the most part it is the installer though, not the skins. Those shoulder pieces are cut and stitched right, but the tabs that connect them to the piece may need to be relocated to get a perfect fit.

For the bolsters, experiment with pulling the leather from the back in different places to get the look on the front that you want, then find a way to affix the section you pulled onto the back with a hog tie. You will probably have to make your own holes in the back for that.

For the pulling you have at the top of the seat back center section (at the tips of the top of the bolsters but on the seat back), you can fix that too. I had the same issue witht the original and asked them to adjust the pattern to give you a bit more attachment room at the top. To fix my own preproduction ones I stitched a strip of fabric to the back of the piece that wraps around above where the provided attachment points end, then hog tied it to the metal on the seat back and that took care of the pulling I had.
 

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I have to agree with the above. Sometime I taught I installed mine the best I could, but still had wrinkels. Remove and started again, making sure the stitch was on the side that was helping for the wrinkels, and voila, a better fit !
 

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Frankly each of those top post piece have been on about 10 different top posts. The two that are on the driver seats almost always fit the best. The one that is really wrinkly you can't even pull it tight on the bench. Its like when they sewed the pieces together the inside and outside piece were flat and the front to back loop was bunched up. Another thing I've found on the rear seat back is the pull for the latch wants to come out throught the outside skin (the comes up against the trim panel) and not the top skin. Measuring across from seam to seam the NAL skin is like an 1-1/4" narrower than the factory skin. It looks like most of the difference is in the top skin along side the headrest bump. It fits pretty good other than that. BTW are you sure you have this labelled correctly?

http://www.pbase.com/suprafiend/image/43288384

Mines like the one on the left.

BTW I've already done that with the side bolster. It ends up just looking worse. I think if I want to fix it I'll have a pie section cut out and resewed together.
 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
Whoops, your right about the labeling, fixed.

I'm in the same boat with my side bolsters, but mine are way off. I had them adjust the bolster pattern after I did mine.

For the shoulder pieces, my last suggestion if you can't get it right and are convinced the piece is sewed incorrectly is to send them the shoulder sections and skins and tell them to install it so it looks good. But from what I can see in the pics you posted, it looks to me like the bottom inside corner just needs to be tucked in more, as in the mounting tab moved up a little as the other sides look fine.
 

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I am surprised to here so manny of you guys are having trouble fitting your skins. I know I had mine done by a professional but he did not say they were hard to fit.
I am not suggesting that anyone is doing it incorrectly it's just an opservation.
 

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Pat, you had yours done by professionnals, people that do that for a living.
They sure have tricks we don't.
We are just DIY, so I guess it is normal we have more difficulties obtaining the perfect result !
 

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RedP85 said:
Pat, you had yours done by professionnals, people that do that for a living.
They sure have tricks we don't.
We are just DIY, so I guess it is normal we have more difficulties obtaining the perfect result !
Yes I know, I was not trying to say you were doing anything wrong. I just had no idea that there had been so many problems with fitting as my fitter said it all went on with no problems.
This was why I did not want to do this myself. I could not really afford to pay someone but did not want to make any mistakes after spending so much buying the kit.
 
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