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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I need a block but trying to decide on buying a brand new block from Toyota or buying one that has a built bottom end.

A new block from Toyota would def be nice & make me feel much more comfortable when pushing 450-500hp with my set up once tuned

but, the price is STEEP (as I knew it would be) I still have to hear back from my shop to see what it would be with my tech friends employee discount but online from Toyota I see a FULLY ASSEMBLED block would be about $2600.00

For that price or less I could get ahold of a "built" block or longbock but it just makes me nervous buying something that someone else built, you just never know what you're getting and its always a gamble & rebuilding myself isnt going to happen-too many kids and not enough time or desire to even fool with it.

My other option of course is a JDM low mile 7m longblock--good price & should hold my power levels...
So....what do you guys think? Anyone bought a new 7m block (complete)? If so, what did you pay?

EDIT: Power goal 450-500hp- PLAN TO RUN SP61GT, 550'S WITH VPC/SAFC2-HEAD PORTED ETC ETC- My head has very low miles & has already ben reworked/redone once so i am leaving that alone aside from a slight touch to make it true/flat for the MHG
 

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well rebuilt it by yourself or take it to the machine shop and let them do it, they just charge $300 for the labor.

i trust one is called JB's Auto Machine shop at Rosedale MD. I took my block and my cylinder head when i did my rebuilt, also they will sell you the parts (pistons, rod & main bearings, trust washers, etc). Decent prices too.

good luck.
 

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JDM... Very Big hit and Miss. Seen some ok, Seen some that were garbage when delivered and ended up having to be rebuilt anyways. I always recommend rebuild a JDM motor even if its just the seals. I just dont trust them even if they seem to be ok for others.

You have a PM, We have already Discussed a few things
 

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I've purchased 2 brand new short blocks over the years ... 1, is in Laverne, right now, with aprox. 8-10,000 miles on it since purchase 10 years ago ... long story on that one. The other, is in the garage, with burnt pistons, at 3k miles ....another story, oh shit moment.

I'd run with a good used engine, until tuning is close, then go new or rebuild at that point .... --- engine #2 was eaten by a boost spike while tuning, solving "issues" ----
 

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^ agreed

For a serious build, I'd tune on the non expensive motor. After tuning then throw the real motor in and make fine adjustments.

There is nothing wrong with a new shortblock. It is way more expensive than a rebuild, but I've seen $3000 rebuilt motors fail. So you have to pick your poison.

When I do a rebuild, I try to find a JDM engine or something less than 100k miles, if it is intended to last for years. It also makes your machine shop bill less.

Rebuilding a 250k mile 87 supra engine that has been beat on all it's life is not the way to go.
 

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Buy a new one.

If your tuner knows whats going on you'll be fine.

Put the new engine together, install, go over everything. Take it to the dyno shop, break it in on the dyno and tune it there. It'll probably last forever.

A built engine should cost more. A stock one will hold 500 WHP forever as long as it is assembled correctly.

A built engine will cost you:

400-1000 depending on if you assemble it or they do for machine work
500-700 for pistons
500-700 for rods
200 for a new oil pump
100-200 for bearings
200 for head studs and main studs

Plus gaskets/oil/filter/misc other crap

With a new short block you'll still need:
200 oil pump
150 gasket set
120 for headstuds

Either way you are looking at about 3 thousand or so before touching the head. A new OEM toyota engine at moderate power levels will outlast the built engine most likely. That is with a perfect tune. No worries about piston slap and things like that.
 

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Think about it. Most people go forged because they are Paranoid and think that you need it. I got it if your running 600+ hp or running Nitrious but for your Power goals a Nicely built Stock Internal Short block is the way to go. Only thing you will need to do is either install the Head that you already have ported and Polished as we talked about or send it here with your ARPs and I can do the work. We talked about shipping and Im sure I can find a company that will ship it to you. Hell, Shawn is here and Im sure he has shipped things like that all over the place.

Ball is in your Court.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the feedback...

just to clarify though-I'm looking to do what is best & what will last. I also don't plan to pull this motor again unless something crazy & unexpected happens so once the motor is in I don't want to pull it again.

This will be to do it right & be done with it.

Supraguy-thnx much for your help thus far

Got a quote online for full block=$2600.00

SMP7MGTE- You remember what you paid? did you buy your fully assembled (crank, rods, etc)
 

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If you don't count parts, my bill was ~$600 for the last one I did. There was no boring or crank grinding needed because I made sure to use a low mileage block.
 

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Buy a new one.

If your tuner knows whats going on you'll be fine.

Put the new engine together, install, go over everything. Take it to the dyno shop, break it in on the dyno and tune it there.
I'll give you, 100 I'm rights, for the day, you just used 1 --- maybe.

Break in on a Dyno? Apparently, you have $$$ to burn. Most of us don't. A budget engine, to get the basic tune close, is similar $$$ and you get to drive the car. Then, break in the "built" engine while, again, driving the car. Final tune on the Dyno after that.

Just my way of looking at it, and doing things .... Opinions --- are ---- Opinions.




Thanks for the feedback...

just to clarify though-I'm looking to do what is best & what will last. I also don't plan to pull this motor again unless something crazy & unexpected happens so once the motor is in I don't want to pull it again.


SMP7MGTE- You remember what you paid? did you buy your fully assembled (crank, rods, etc)
You're going to get an Education ... I'll stop there.

I paid 2200-2300 10 years ago, prices haven't changed considerably.


does the new block have to be machined for the mhg?...if so take your old one to a reputable machine shop and have them build it..cost less...same results.
New block does not have the correct RA .... that said, I have NEVER, had an engine machined to the "correct" RA. I also, have NEVER, had a blown HG with an MHG installed. Though, I've also never surpassed 400hp on one of these, yet. Really don't see the need. The car is plenty fast at that hp level.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks again to all for their input. I decided on a stock block with 62k miles -its a known good block as the guy selling pulled it from a good running 90 MK3 pig. Includes new MHG & ARP's for around $600 shipped....

Couldnt pass it up.

Thanks again team.
 
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