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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys my names Stephen. I just traded my 1988 4Runner with a 350 in it for 2 1983 supra's. One of them is up and running just fine, but the other one needs the motor put back in it. What I was wondering is how difficult it is to swap the 7mgte into it. I've done a few swaps before but they were all either 350's or 4.3's. I've never dealt with turbo's or anything like that. Anyway nice to meet you all.
 

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Welcome, there is a whole section on the 7MGTE swaps. Good luck with your project.
 

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Welcome and Greetings. Wow 2 at once. Post some pictures.
 

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good trade!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you much for the warm greetings. I do have a question though. The one that I am driving dies on me when I have the headlights, wipers and heater on at an idle (obviously this needs to be fixed, anyone in the PacNW knows that these 3 things will be on until April). I'm guessing it's the alternator or a bad battery connection, but was wondering if you guys had ever had this problem?
 

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What is the battery gauge saying? using a multimeter and at idle with everything off, what voltage is going to the battery? Then when you slowly start to turn things on, does the voltage go down?

You can always go to Schmucks or VatoZone with your battery and your alternator, and they can test them for free for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
At an idle the batter is normally sitting right at 12. with all those on it will drop down to about 10. Once it starts getting around 9 the CD player shuts off and then the headlights will start to dim. At 8 the engine will sputter till it dies. When it drops down to 8 or 9 though I can't get it back up. Even when I shut everything off it will still swindle. I can keep the car alive by revving it, but as soon as I let off, it dies. Then I have to jump it to get it started. But when jumping it I don't have to let it charge at all. As soon as the cables are hooked up the car will turn over.
 

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Sounds like the alternator. Take it in and get it tested to make sure.
 

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Welcome! Nice trade! I agree with it being the alternator. The alternators for these cars are a bit underpowered to begin with. There's an upgrade you can do, there's a post on here about it somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Alright so I started fiddling around and came to find out the Cd player and the heater have nothing to do with the car dying. I can have those two on at the same time and it runs just fine. BUT, if I have either the headlights, or the windshield wipers on, the volts will drop until it dies. They don't even have to be on at the same time. With every swipe of the windshield wipers The meter will drop until it dies. But unlike the headlights, if I turn them off, the charge returns to 12. When I shut the headlights off, the battery will not regain charge.
 

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Yeah Stephan, you are heading the wrong way for this group. I already told you what to do, other people backed it up, and you still have yet to do it.

If you keep going this way, all what is going to happen in the future, is no one is going to want to help you since it seems like you can't listen and do what people tell you is a LARGE possibility of the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Took the alternator to Schucks. Had it tested. Came back fine. When I made that last post it was after midnight. Little late to take to an auto shop and have it tested. Sorry for upsetting anyone I was just checking to see if it could mean anything else with what I had found out.
 

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Next thing to try is to have battery tested and make sure battery connections are clean and tight. The alternator needs the battery to supply the field winding.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That's what I'm doing right now. Well I was at schucks I has the battery and the alternator checked. They both came back fine. I also picked up new terminals because the ones on there didn't look very good.
 

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Does the car have any other running issues? Sometimes if the battery is good, alt is good, and wiring is good, it can mean that the Main Relay is the fuse block is going bad. Swap it with the other relay that is the same style and see what happens. Also check your large fuseable link, since if that starts to go bad, you will also get a no-charge issue.
 

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Wow - lots of good advice here that I hadn't even considered! On the alternator testing, don't trust just one place to say it's good. I had one tested (GM) this summer by both Autozone and Advance. Advance said it was bad, but it looked like the kid at the counter testing it didn't know what he was doing; was probably just trying to sell me a new one. Autozone said it was good! I installed the alternator, charged up the battery, and 2 days later, no start. I checked all the wiring myself (good) and battery was brand new with a full charge. Alternator was still bad.

Moral of the story: don't trust just one, or even TWO, opinions. Learn how to test stuff yourself. :)

Oh, and welcome to the forum!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well you were completely right. As all of you said it was pointing to the alternator and even though it checked out, I put the one from the 2nd supra on there... runs like a charm now.Thank you very much for all the advice.
 
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