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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, my name is Sam, and I bought an '85 Supra a few weeks ago so I figured I should jump on a forum for the help I'm going to inevitably need.

A bit of info on the car: hit 300 000kms on the drive home from buying it, and mechanically it seems pretty solid. 5-speed manual seems to shift fine. Body is not the best; about 2 feet of the rockers on each side are going to need to be cut out and have new metal welded back in, as well as the same area behind the wheel (basically everywhere around the wheel well, but the wheel wells themselves seem fine, if what I'm saying makes any sense). The rest of the body seems structurally fine, though, but there are a lot of paint chips from the mileage, as well as some paint imperfections, but no rust on the rest of the body. Under the car is fine; just the rockers and behind the rear wheels.

It does need some immediate attention, such as the rust, as well two wheel bearings, brake rotors, and the differential may need to be replaced. It whined a bit on the drive home, so I parked it and haven't driven it since, so I still need to look into it. Suspension is also pretty soft, but that isn't a priority at the moment.

I'm pretty sure that covers most of the car. I'm honestly pretty new to Toyota's (this was absolutely an impulse purchase, I'm 18 and had nothing better to spend my money on) so I'm probably going to ask redundant or stupid questions, so any suggestions will be much appreciated.
 

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" I'm honestly pretty new to Toyota's (this was absolutely an impulse purchase, I'm 18 and had nothing better to spend my money on) so I'm probably going to ask redundant or stupid questions, so any suggestions will be much appreciated"
LMAO
 

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Welcome! Now that you admit you can't resist instant gratification, you'll definitely need to learn patience when it comes to repairs. ;) First thing you need to do is use the search function and read through all the posts by a fellow named Seamus (username SupraFiend) that contain references to "rust". He is the guru and has posted the most detailed and helpful information about rust repair on these old mk2 Supras.
 

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Change the diff lube, use synthetic to extend the life of it.
 

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Welcome Sam.... in addition to the mountain of experienced info available on the site... the 1ST thing I did was get a Haynes Do it yourself manual... was essential for someone like me who never actually took any shop courses... I also have the Official Toyota Technicians manual...

Helpful to have both sometimes...

Anyway, pretty much anything that's EVER been done to these cars have been written up & annotated with pics... so enjoy...

Cheers,
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Okay, thanks guys. I’ve been doing a little reading since my last post and there’s some great info on here regarding what I need to do for that car.
 

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....+ ONE on the Haynes manual.
Also,this can be helpful:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK2/default.aspx
The differentials are hard to find. My previous ones were loud screamers! My third one is tolerable.4.10 LSD.
Be prepared to spend to spend $100-$300+ shipping. Location?
Redline differential gear oil is MAGIC!Works for transmissions as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-50304-Transmission-Transaxle/dp/B000CPCBEQ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PD6E79MNXW88MWBS5WNP
You will need (2). + additive,I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Currently located in Southern Alberta, in the Calgary area. Turns out I'm gonna need to do a lot more to it than I anticipated. I finished up the wheel bearings and did the brakes/rotors as well, and turns out the diff will indeed need to be replaced. So I just replaced the pinion seal which stopped the leak, and I took it for a bit of a cruise (give or take 200km). The clutch slips badly in high gear at lower rpm's (usually if I'm in town at a 50km/h zone in 4th and I accelerate, it'll slip), so I'm going to need to replace the clutch ASAP. Also on that cruise, I saw my oil level had dropped noticeably. Given it sat for around 10 years according to the previous owner, I'm going to assume the rubber just dried up and turned to crap. I'm considering one of three things for this car: full engine rebuild and leave stock, full engine rebuild and do some aftermarket (maybe turbo? I doubt it), or a different engine swap altogether.

Keep in mind that this won't be a daily; I expect that portion of the project to take several months so I'm not really going to rush it. Alberta only really gets 4 months that are nice and sunny so as soon as the snow hits, I'm probably going to get to work on it. With my Haynes manual, of course ;)

But in all seriousness, does any of that seem realistic? Since the clutch NEEDS to be replaced, I figured I'd just do it all at the same time. As always, any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
 

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Going turbo you are looking to keep working on it, because it is addictive, and you'll be pushing it until it breaks again. Rebuilding the 5M is enough to be crusing around for some time. The 2JZGE is a swap for long term reliability.
There is some exception, but most of the time, swaps reduce car value.
Doing it all at once is a very option if you have the workshop for.
 

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300 KM'S on the engine? Yeah,it's tired and it leaks a lot of oil.Mine did and it was DONE. I found a rebuilt 5-MGE for $1,500,delivered.I was lucky!
At least the clutch MUST be replaced.
If you pull the engine and transmission as an assembly,Jack up the back and LOWER the front to the control arms.

Do a decent job of an engine wash beforehand. DO NOT DAMAGE THE HEATER CORE nipples! I wired in a few 2 X 4's to prevent damaging that (PITA )part to replace/repair.
You may do the rebuild solo,or truck it to your chosen machine shop for new parts.Do the research on parts availability.Bearings,rings,pistons and more.Gasket set(S).Metal head gasket and NO oil pan gasket. Use Ultra Grey by Permatex.(I did mine twice and it didn't stop leaking)

You have choices to make.

Stock engine is OK,with a few intake mods. I don't like headers at all.(That's just me)

Me? I'd pull it all out and wash it all again,pull the trans off and ship it to your machine shop for a rebuild.Stash your car out of the way and(work on the body), wait for the machine shop to call you.Buy the clutch last.Machine the flywheel at the same shop.Change the gear oil in the diff B-4 considering a (Hard to find) replacement.
Does this advice sound crazy?
[url=https://imgur.com/W59pySo][/URL]
OOPS. https://imgur.com/W59pySo
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Okay, that's sort of the idea I had in mind. My neighbour owns a shop nearby so I took it there pretty much immediately after I bought it to see what was up. I know for sure that the diff needs replacing because we changed the pinion seal (leaking badly so I thought the howling was due to low fluid) and I think there was too much metal to metal contact because there were shards of metal inside the casing. Gonna be a total pain in the ass to find one, but I've noticed a few parts cars pop up in my area so I may try to snag one of them if they have what I need. As for the engine, the idea was just to bring it to his shop because I wouldn't be able to practically pull the engine (I don't really have the space to pull one nor do I have a lift or hoist to transport that stuff) plus he's able to order in rebuild kits for cheaper than I'd be able to find them. I'm probably just going to drive the car as it is for the rest of the summer, then drive it to his shop right before the snow hits and then get to work. He's able to get parts for it cheaper than I would be able to find, so clutch and rebuild kit shouldn't be an issue. I'm thinking while it's at the shop, it may be worth turbocharging it. I found a thread on here somewhere on the 5mgte (can't remember who wrote it; I'll edit back once I find it) and it seemed pretty cheap. It all depends on if I'm able to budget this all together. I'm entering my second year of university, so the car's not really a priority, but at the same time I'd love to have it done by the time the spring hits.

So, in short: Take it to neighbour's shop who can get cheaper parts, rebuild engine/clutch/new diff, maybe turbo. Realistic? The sooner I plan, the sooner I can really start saving.

Edit: Post was made by flyjum, called "5MGTE Guide with Microsquirt" if anyone is interested.
 

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Get your engine/clutch/differential sorted out before even thinking about adding a turbo and ALL that goes with it.
You don't have the space to blow (TAKE)apart your engine,anyway.

Your budget will be blown way B-4 the turbo comes to mind.
 
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