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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
New quarter mile times/dyno with new upgrades *video content*

The last time I went to the track I did a 14.5 at 230hp and 253tq completely stock...(2 years ago)

New dyno graph -> http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h179/toyocua/CIMG9937.jpg

With the current upgrades of the 57' trim turbo, intercooler and pipes, 550's and lexus afm, egr delete, lightweight flywheel and 4 puck clutch im at 299hp and 321tq. I was very curious to see if i can crack low 13's.... here's my best time and ironically the last run of the day (ran 6 times). Keep in mind I was having problems with the clutch slipping in 2nd and 3rd all day....

R/T... .423
60'... 2.107
1/8... 8.872
MPH... 84.38
1/4... 13.548
MPH... 108.38

I actually trapped better on my 13.678 run at 108.78mph. Im eyeing to get into the 12's but i must raise the boost to 15psi and get a 3.73 or 3.90 ring and pinion cuz this 4.30 is killing me. Oh i also need to break in the clutch some more too :naughty:

Heres the video of the 13.5 pass, im trying to take a pic of my slip but its coming out blurry


Heres me racing either an Evo or lancer rally art (it was turbo'd)
 

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nice job. Can you keep us updated on your clutch. What im reading has me very concerned on it actual holding power.

I bought the 6 puck and havent installed it yet, If yours is slipping a 300HP then Raptor has some explaining to do, but if it holds after a break in then cool. There is no way im installing mine if it slips at 300. I will rip it apart then on the 1st run. I dont drive my car more than 500 miles in 6 months if it needs that long to break in.:32:
 

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nice numbers!

check to make sure there's no oil leaking into the bellhousing. oil will slip clutch, and although it will burn off, it still ruins the disc (ask me how I know)
 

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in a different turbo car i had a similar style 6 puck clutch and it did take all of the 500mi breakin period to stop slipping. i thought it was defective at first too and called the company and they reassured me it would be fine after break in. sure enough, after those few hundred miles of taking it easier it was broken in and held like a beast after. never had another issue. i think it just depends on the clutch's friction material of choice, but some need the longer break in. i wouldn't be taking it to the track right after install because you could make things worse.

still nice numbers though, can't wait till i'm there too.
 

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id like to see a 1.8 60'. can u get a hold of some extra rear rims 4 slicks? I think more tuning and your 12.8 easy. lookin good.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
id like to see a 1.8 60'. can u get a hold of some extra rear rims 4 slicks? I think more tuning and your 12.8 easy. lookin good.
i was lauching at 3500rpm. with slicks and a strong clutch 1.8 i think can be done. I shouldve tested the ebrake to build some boost off the line :eek4dance:
 

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Nice runs Jonathan. Black Mk2s with black rims and a polished lip are pure sex.

Something I would do next time, hold the burnout longer. And when staged, start pumping the accelerator fast - like a 2-step. The burnout will help the car hook while the mini revs will keep the turbo spinning.:thumbsup:
 

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.... here's my best time and ironically the last run of the day (ran 6 times). Keep in mind I was having problems with the clutch slipping in 2nd and 3rd all day....
Jonathan,

how many miles are on the clutch? My clutch is not different than others, it WILL slip if not broken in properly. Feramic clutches generally take longer to break in than others. When the clutch is broken in and there are no other underlying issues with the car (leaks etc) then there is NO WAY you can slip that clutch with 300rwhp. Keep in mind that break in requires constant shifting; it's not just distance. If you haven't broken it in fully I'd strongly suggest you continue to do so before going back to the track/dyno.

nice job. Can you keep us updated on your clutch. What im reading has me very concerned on it actual holding power.

I bought the 6 puck and havent installed it yet, If yours is slipping a 300HP then Raptor has some explaining to do, but if it holds after a break in then cool. There is no way im installing mine if it slips at 300. I will rip it apart then on the 1st run. I dont drive my car more than 500 miles in 6 months if it needs that long to break in.:32:
Jake,

believe me when I say you have NOTHING to be concerned about. I'm personally guaranteeing you there is no way to slip that clutch with the kind of power Jonathan is making when it's fully broken in.


Yes it will take at LEAST 500miles to break it, some have done it in less some more. For a clutch to hold the type of power you need it's either feramic (longer break in period) or multi-disc (longer work hours required due to the price). This is my opinion on this subject, I'm sure others have different views and they are obviously allowed to express them.

If I didn't make the break in period clear before you bought it and this isn't to your liking I have NO problem buying it back. I'm more confident in this clutch than anything else I sell, but I don't' want people having parts from me they don't want. If I've misrepresented the clutch fire me off an email and we'll discuss getting your money back and the clutch back in my hands. You should know me by now Jake...no sense banging your head over anything you buy from ME...if it's not what I say it is just let me know and we'll deal with it. Not trying to be a kiss ass here but the sale doesn't end when I get your money...I don't work that way. Probably one of the #1 reasons I don't have time to work on my own car :eekfacepalm::zzzzz:
 

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Nice videos. I would love to see it with some different gearing and see what kind of times you get.
 

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Its all good george, I trust you 100%. I didnt know about the 500 mile break in, or i didnt pay attn. to that if the info was presented somewhere. So i may have dropped the ball there. Either way, Youre the best vendor Ive purchase from hands down. That includes all the vendors i deal with. Thanks for stepping in here and nipping this in the bud.

Im going to re-read your thread on the clutches to see if that info is in there. if its not maybe it should be inserted.

To everyone else. George is a great vendor to buy from as stated above. So dont take my post the wrong way.

As for the the 60' talk going on above. Be careful going any higher than 3500RPMS with slicks or DR on that car, if you do, you'd better have another diff on the bench.
 

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As for the the 60' talk going on above. Be careful going any higher than 3500RPMS with slicks or DR on that car, if you do, you'd better have another diff on the bench.
At what point do the joints in the axles start to give out? I've got everything to do the True Trac, which i'll be doing this winter (also R154). The concern I have is.. everything will hold of for sure, except the axles. If you drop higher then 3,500 rpm with slicks or DR's will the axle joints explode? I should probably research rather then ask.. but yeah. Lol

To everyone else. George is a great vendor to buy from as stated above. So dont take my post the wrong way.
I agree, I don't deal with alot of vendors but I can say after purchasing from him i'd give an A+ :D

Tony
 

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At what point do the joints in the axles start to give out? I've got everything to do the True Trac, which i'll be doing this winter (also R154). The concern I have is.. everything will hold of for sure, except the axles. If you drop higher then 3,500 rpm with slicks or DR's will the axle joints explode? I should probably research rather then ask..
350+ whp and 5k+ launches with launch control on slicks will loosen up those axles.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Something I would do next time, hold the burnout longer. And when staged, start pumping the accelerator fast - like a 2-step. The burnout will help the car hook while the mini revs will keep the turbo spinning.:thumbsup:
since the clutch was acting up, i didnt want to do a good burnout. i was 1 1/2 hours away from home :sadbanana:

ill keep the mini revs in mind for next time. what i really wanted to do was build boost off the line with the ebrake. thats alot of fun...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Jonathan,

how many miles are on the clutch? My clutch is not different than others, it WILL slip if not broken in properly. Feramic clutches generally take longer to break in than others. When the clutch is broken in and there are no other underlying issues with the car (leaks etc) then there is NO WAY you can slip that clutch with 300rwhp. Keep in mind that break in requires constant shifting; it's not just distance. If you haven't broken it in fully I'd strongly suggest you continue to do so before going back to the track/dyno.



Jake,

believe me when I say you have NOTHING to be concerned about. I'm personally guaranteeing you there is no way to slip that clutch with the kind of power Jonathan is making when it's fully broken in.


Yes it will take at LEAST 500miles to break it, some have done it in less some more. For a clutch to hold the type of power you need it's either feramic (longer break in period) or multi-disc (longer work hours required due to the price). This is my opinion on this subject, I'm sure others have different views and they are obviously allowed to express them.

If I didn't make the break in period clear before you bought it and this isn't to your liking I have NO problem buying it back. I'm more confident in this clutch than anything else I sell, but I don't' want people having parts from me they don't want. If I've misrepresented the clutch fire me off an email and we'll discuss getting your money back and the clutch back in my hands. You should know me by now Jake...no sense banging your head over anything you buy from ME...if it's not what I say it is just let me know and we'll deal with it. Not trying to be a kiss ass here but the sale doesn't end when I get your money...I don't work that way. Probably one of the #1 reasons I don't have time to work on my own car :eekfacepalm::zzzzz:


George

I did mention in my first post that thie clutch needed some more break-in. i think some people missed that. for the record, this clutch is AWESOME. nobody should worry. ive got 960 miles on it so far and approx 550-600 are city miles... so it does need some more miles in the city. the last run of the day the clutch held very well....
 

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Jonathan
Was that at Union Grove, WI?
 

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Geez, I haven't been there in about 30 years. They didn't know what imports were back then.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Jonathan
Was that at Union Grove, WI?
yup it was at union grove. you've gotta take your car next year. the track is amazing and the people are great.... id love to see what your car is doing :naughty:
 
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