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Discussion Starter #1
a43de how much power can it take?

i'm gonna be running a 6m-ge.

any performance rebuild kits/parts for the transmission?

would the 6m-ge be better built with an:
1) automatic with headers, 10.5:1 compresson, and other N/A stuff(headwork yadda yadda).
or
2)headwork. turbo, blah blah(i would use phil duper's page on the building of the gte).

if i do n/a i would prolly go to a 7m-ge because of the 24 valves and stay with 6m for turbo cuz of the bigger valves and better torque band. however, if i ran turbo it wouldn't be a low boost at times. when i go to the track and stuff i'd run a pretty high boost level which i don't think the a43de can take.

i will TRY and probably fail but i'm going to try to use a 7m-gte ecu with the 6mge because of the stroger automatic, better fuel management(desighned for a freaggin turbo) and the better afm.
 

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DKJones96 said:
if i do n/a i would prolly go to a 7m-ge because of the 24 valves and stay with 6m for turbo cuz of the bigger valves and better torque band.
What makes you think "bigger valves" is an advantage? The 7M cylinder head has significantly more valve area, and thus flows better. This is the whole reason multivalve heads were introduced. And don't let anyone tell you 2-valve heads have more torque. Drive a stock 7M-GTE and you'll see they're not lacking in the torque department at all!

IMO you'd be nuts to build a 6M turbo from the ground up with 7M components. Using a complete 7M-GTE is going to work better and be MUCH easier.
 

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I've said it a hundred times and I'll say it again, "Don't build a 6m with turbo UNLESS you've already GOT a 6m, in which case the principle of sunk cost applies." I've ridden in 7m-gte cars and find them comparable at stock boost. The only advantage the 6m-gte seems to have is a quicker spool-up due to the higher static compression. In general, for most people tho I'd have to say the 7m is just far and away the better bang for the buck and if you really intend to race regularly for the sake of racing, then it really makes sense to start with the system thats going to give the least hassles. Now if you like mechanical challenges more than the racing and build a 6m run on 7m electronics, then I'd have to say I would eagerly await your results since that eliminates most, but not all, the 6m hybrid's pitfalls.

My automagic is hanging in just fine after a few years, tho mabe only 10,000 miles and I don't race, just spirited driving around about town. I do need to pull it soon to try and find an annoying fluid leak that starting to make the Exxon Valdez look like spilled milk, but it still shifts smooth as silk. If you plan to race regularly, tho, I'd use the A340 from the mk3. Preston's got one prepped for his 7mgte project by Level 10 tho the car is still in million pieces last I heard but he had the fitment all figured out and not that difficult. Neither tranny have really any upgrade options other than supposedly trade secrets held by Level 10 ($3000 rebuild - ouch) but the mk3 unit is reputed to be a bit stronger. If you could find an adapter plate, the ultimate would be a race-prepped GM Th700r which you can buy for around $1000.

Phil D.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
okay so 7m-gte with a340e automatic transmission.

anyone got an f series lsd rearend for sale? preferably in the 3.9 ratio range.

what is the most boost anyone has gotten from one of these 7m's?

what is normal around town pressure(and power).

stand alone or factory ecu? i wouldn't think the stand alone would control the automatic?

what is the best powerband anyone has gotten? (wide) i'm talkin 8-9 grand redline and peaking about a grand before that. you'd need aftermarket cams and valve springs and a cheap dyno tho.

i've always been interested in what people could get out of these engines at HIGH speeds. problem is i'd want automatic cuz i'm lazy and that would require a whole new shift chart(don't know what to call it) for the ecu.
 

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Mk3 Supra's have a separate ECU for the auto, so you can go standalone without affecting the transmission.

Most boost from a 7M? People have been building tough 7M's for years, so while I don't know the absolute maximum figure I know it would be insanely high. For a near-stock engine though, I'd say 1 bar is the safe limit, provided you've taken a few precautions first.
 

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Not sure how integrated the ECU and ECT computers are. I studied the wiring diagrams once trying to figure out if the mk2 computer could control a mk3 tranny and never quite figured it out. They are quite similar, but the ECT does get 3 or 4 signals from the ECU, whether or not they are pass through I'm not sure but its basically engine temp and throttle position signals. Some of the fancier stand alone systems offer multiple tranny solenoid control options tho so it can probably be done one way or another. Joel Tanzman's 7m=gte powered mk2 is in the 10 second range. Don't know the hp figures but its reputedly 700+. Like Russ, I think he skipped the toyota trannies completely and installed an old-fashion 2 speed powerglide. Need to lurk on the mk3 oriented forums to find out what all people have done with the 7m-gte.

Phil D.
 

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well, my stock 7m at 8psi had LOTS of tq. it would break the tires loose shifting to 4th with 245/60/14's ~20psi tire press. on the back and did it with both 4.30 and 4.10 diffs. i didnt get a chance to see what it would do after i rebuilt the motor cause the car got totalled about 6 days later(still hassleing with the ins. company) i am in the process of gathering parts for an insane 7mgte buildup. ive got a spare block, head(being ported and polished), 1mm oversized ss valves, 1/2mm over weisco pistons, and when my mkiii is fixed and sold i plan on buying a set of pauter machine rods, arp head and main studs, blah, blah, blah. im good at breaking stuff and i want to be sure this motor wont break.

7mgte is the way to go. lots of stock internaled 7m's with mhg's running ~20psi on a daily basis wthout any problems as long as they have supporting mods and are tuned correctly.
 
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