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Discussion Starter #1
I recently bought a 84 model Celica Supra. And after driving it for two weeks the engine died while driving, and it didn't want to start again.

I have removed the no 1 spark plug, and cranked the engine, and the plug is not making any sparks. (Fitted new plugs) I have tested the EFI relay, and it seems okay.

Can it possibly be the ECU?? is there any way to test it? Can it be the coil or igniter? How do I test them??


PLEASE HELP!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have checked the Distributor cap, and rotor, they seem OK. I did not check any of the other spark plugs. I asumed that all of them are dead, or else the engine would still start. (If only one plug was dead)

Any other suggestions??? :? :?
 

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Maybe your timing belt broke. Try removing the distributor cap and ground the coil wire. Then crank the engine over and see if the distributor shaft turns. If the shaft doesn't turn then chances are your timing belt is stripped or broke. If the timing belt checks out OK then threre's a good chance that your igniter may have crapped out. Have you checked your ECU for any stored trouble codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Haven't checked the timing belt, will do it tomorrow. How do I check the ECU for trouble codes???

I do not know a lot about Fuel injection systems so please don't laugh If I ask silly questions :oops:

Does the ECU control the ignitor in any way, and how do I check if the ignitor is faulty or not?? :? How can I make sure that the ECU is still OK?
 

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There is nothing silly about asking questions! That's what this forum is all about! :D We all learn by asking questions, however simple or complex they may be. Do you have a copy of the Haynes manual or a copy of the 84 TSRM? You have to use a voltmeter on the 84 to read the codes. Page 6-5 in the Haynes manual.
HTH!
 

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Nope haven't got any manual. I only bought the car a few weeks ago, and I must still get a manual. Which manual is the best one to buy?
 

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The Haynes manual is the cheapest and contains a lot of good illustrations and photos that aren't in the TSRM (Toyota Service Repair Manual). I would start with that and then keep your eye out for a 84 TSRM. The two manuals compliment each other. The TSRM is pretty thorough and the Haynes manual has a lot of photos and illustrations. The Haynes manual is publication no. 1139 (1979-1992 Toyota Celica Supra). Check your timing belt first and let us know what you find!
To answer your previous questions: Yes, the ECU does interface with the igniter, so any problem in that arena would show up as a trouble code stored in the ECU memory. The ECU itself is a very durable unit and rarely if ever causes any problem. The 82 ECU OTOH is a little different story. :?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Guys.

I will check everything mentioned by you all, and let you know what I find.

Cheers :D :D
 

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Wickus said:
I recently bought a 84 model Celica Supra. And after driving it for two weeks the engine died while driving, and it didn't want to start again.

I have removed the no 1 spark plug, and cranked the engine, and the plug is not making any sparks. (Fitted new plugs) I have tested the EFI relay, and it seems okay.

Can it possibly be the ECU?? is there any way to test it? Can it be the coil or igniter? How do I test them??


PLEASE HELP!!!!!
First off, you don't replace the plug when you have no fire at all. The problem is normall something else. Your next place to check is from the coil. Do the same spark check only with the coil wire, not a spark plug wire. Then you check the rotor and distributer. If you have no fire there, you could have a bad coil, igniter, pickup coil or ECU.
 

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>>
Nope haven't got any manual. I only bought the car a few weeks ago, and I must still get a manual. Which manual is the best one to buy?
>>

If you can get a Haynes manual, these are fairly good. I've had good success with them. Of course, the best is to get a TSRM (Toyota Service and Repair Manual) but these can be expensive. Here in the US there's a toll free order line where you can get a great deal on the 1986 TSRM.

As for your mechanical problems, I would bet it's the timing belt, especially if it turns over much faster than normal when starting, and just sounds odd. This happened to me once, and basically the crank would spin as fast as the starter could make it - there's no compression to build up resistance.

If your timing belt is broken, you're still sort of lucky - the 5M is a non-interference engine and you won't have valve or piston damage to repair, just the belt... It could be worse! You could be driving a Honda! :D
 

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I had the same problem everything was working fine, a sudden stall and no ability to restart - it turned out to be the ignitor, that's a part that rarely goes and is quite expensive.

Art
 

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the 5M is a non-interference engine and you won't have valve or piston damage to repair, just the belt...
No kidding :D I guess you learn something new everyday. What exactly does a non-interference motor mean. I know it obviously means that when at TDC there is no way the valve can hit the pistons but what is it really? How does it work as opposed to just about every other car?


Austin
 

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Non-interference.....sufficient valve to piston clearance to prevent any possibility of the valves contacting the pistons if the timing belt breaks and the cams stop rotating. Some engines are built this way and some aren't.
 

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MKIIBeater said:
the 5M is a non-interference engine and you won't have valve or piston damage to repair, just the belt...
No kidding :D I guess you learn something new everyday. What exactly does a non-interference motor mean. I know it obviously means that when at TDC there is no way the valve can hit the pistons but what is it really? How does it work as opposed to just about every other car?


Austin
Non interference engine simply means if the timing belt or chain breaks, the pistons don't bend the valves. On and interference motor, when the belt or chain breaks, say good bye to your valves.
 
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