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Non 'bling' newer Toyota CD/Cassette install

117K views 227 replies 68 participants last post by  rhartmaier 
#1 · (Edited)
Very quickly realized I'm not going to find a mint original stereo, that still functions normally. Even if it's been on a shelf for 20 years and looks perfect, odds are it's just not going to work right, AND . . .. without a CD player, the want for original is quickly diminished.

Well, I know there isn't a HUGE call for this, and many are well beyond this and into other things, but if there's a few people out there who feel the same way I do about wanting an OEM look, and longing to upgrade to CD WITHOUT going for the silvery, lit-up-like-the-vegas-strip kinda head unit, it's a tight fit but inexpensive and worth the effort.

The pics below show a single piece, double DIN Toyota CD/Cassette unit from a 01 Camry, but they came in many different models. They also come in both internal, and external amp versions. The right buy at the right time, this one cost me $21 on eBay, WITH amp.

The newer units (87-ish and up) use a 2 plug, 10 pin 6 pin setup, (both internal and externally amplified) instead of our 9 pin 5 pin setup. This is easily converted using 2 small harnesses, (Google for info) Scosche TA02RB ('reverse' harness for 87-up) and TAO1B (for 82-86), color coded, joined together to create the 'adapter' that now makes it a clean plug-n-play. Both can be had for under $10 each, but I think the 82-86 is getting harder to find. I used heat-shrink tubing and solder for a clean install.


TIP 1: You may be better off going for the internally amplified unit, (if the depth is the same, usually 6 1/2" on these units, CONFIRM DEPTH B4 PURCHASE, 6 1/2" MAX, less is better) as I discovered that finding space for the amp, even as small as it is, is difficult if allowing for the need for heat dissapation. Internally amplified units have the 10-6 plugs directly on the back of the stereo, externally amplified units have a single multi pin plug for the amp, and the 10-6 plugs are on the amp. (and the newer units have an additional plug for AUX units like CD changers, MP3 players etc.)

TIP 2: You can only use standard double DIN units, there are many styles. In recent years manufacturers have moved away from standard double DIN units and are designing the faces oversized, and to fit the particular car. Look closely, the face should not be any bigger than the 'box' itself.

There are 6 disc versions of the same, AND the older style 2 piece stereos.(UPDATE 4-9-09: I have verified with 2 different sources that the 6-disc of this newer style is 1/2" deeper. This makes it too deep for this type of install. It would stick right out through the surround.) I was originally going for the older 2 pc, with 6-disc, as the depth front to back was a little less, and cured the only issue in this install. The new unit needs to actually come through the opening of the surround a tiny bit, rather than the surround resting against the face of the stereo, like the original. The surround has tiny 'lips', or edges running vertically on the sides of the opening, and these need to be carefully shaved off flat for the new unit to come through. You don't even see a difference. As with everything, it's subjective, and a matter of personal tastes. Have a '.pdf' file of the two different wiring setups/colors. Gladly field any P.M's with questions/facts.









In keeping it short, if like me, you desire non butchered wiring and a stock look, it's just going to take some patient eBaying, a Saturday morning, some easy wiring and a phillips screwdriver.

3-30-09 ADDITIONAL INFO: Concerning the Supras stock 'Subwoofer' and it's wiring, obviously it was a unique item to the era, the original stereos had wiring outputs for the sub, it is the BLUE plug of the 3 plug harness. Any newer OEM system is not going to be set up with an output for the sub, so because of it's location under the glovebox, I used a spare blue plug/wires and tapped into the RIGHT-FRONT speaker output on the new harness setup. You should use a proper inline 'filter' to limit the frequency going to the sub, so that it is just low-end signal.

5-16-09 IMPORTANT ADDITIONAL INFO: See page 7 of this thread for instructions on adding the ability for your new stereo's lights to be dimmable like the rest of your dash lights.





Finished harness: (but still w/o dimmer mod wire seen on pg. 7)






:salute::salute::salute::salute:
 
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#42 ·
Steve, I get ya now. In that situation, the first thing that comes to mind is to throw a small powered sub/speaker in the back, getting HeadUnit switched power as described in the power antenna post in this thread. The line level converters look cheap enough so you could branch right off the rear speakers etc. Not sure if that would stress the rear output of the strereo or not. I personally wouldn't worry about it too much. Pretty sure it's all a 4 OHM system.
Thats also something you could keep hidden with the cargo cover.
 
#44 ·
Update

Just a quick update, if anyone is considering this type of install, and looking to do the 6-disc version of the one pictured in the original post, I have verified with 2 different sources that the 6-disc is 1/2" deeper. This makes it too deep for this type of install. It would stick right out through the surround. Figured I'd try to stop anyone from finding out the hard way.
Looks like the option for 6-disc will have to be in the style of the older 2 piece units. Little more rare on eBay, but they do come around.
 
#49 ·
Just a quick update, if anyone is considering this type of install, and looking to do the 6-disc version of the one pictured in the original post, I have verified with 2 different sources that the 6-disc is 1/2" deeper. This makes it too deep for this type of install.
I remember reading once that the '82 and possibly '83 have about 1/2" more clearance in the rear because the heater controls are different. Can anyone verify?
 
#47 · (Edited)
Clean install in a blue interior

Hey all, figured I'd post up a few pics of a recent install of this type of stereo setup, in a BLUE interior, and what the hell, show off another Supra . . . . .

Car is Dave B.'s, AKA 'suprasax' 85 with custom 2-tone paint, and his own little touches. Good guy, good car, out goes another flashy aftermarket bling-machine . . . . (old stereo). If your among the crowd that has no desire for navigation, bluetooth, Ipod etc etc, and just want clean form-fitting function, I think this setup rocks.:thumbsup:














:salute::salute::salute::salute:
 
#48 ·
N-I-C-E! :thumbsup:


Chris
----------
1986 Toyota Supra MKII
1987 Toyota MR2 T-Top/5-speed
1986 Pontiac Fiero GT V6/5-speed
1989 Pontiac Turbo Trans Am #760 (1940 miles)
1988 Chevrolet Corvette 35th Anniversary #1941/2050
1983 Delorean DMC-12
1985 Kawasaki Eliminator ZL900
 
#50 ·
Just thought I throw it out there that looks really nice. I actually have a verison of that radio in my Solara and it's a decent radio for sure. I actually used the hard wire adapter for my XM and it's zero static and doesn't require the changing of stations as you travel. Going to use one in the Supra one day but for now I use the cassette adapter for now.
 
#53 ·
Charles, I have zero experience with XM or Ipod stuff, when you say 'hard wire adapter' are you saying that the 'extra' socket on the rear of these units, besides being used for steering wheel controls, can be used for a direct connection for XM equiptment? Hope I wasn't interpreting that wrong, that would be a definite plus . . . . . .

:salute::salute::salute::salute:
 
#52 ·
Maybe?

I don't know about the 82-83 thing, only ever worked on 85's but seems like Kens right there with that verification, MAYBE . . . . . this thread I read recently was the info that was being recalled? First thing I thought of from recent memory. Dunno, but HTH.

Pioneer AVIC-F700BT...I'll have to find a finished pic at home and upload it. It fits. Also, remember...he has a Celica...doesn't have the blend door servo behind the stereo like we do in our Supras
 
#54 ·
Wow, I did exactly the same thing when my Camry was out of commission (I have an '01). I fabbed up an ebay wiring harness and everything, though I could have done a little cleaner of a job. Nice to see someone of a like mind.

REALLY nice work man, I could never get the angle quite right, but that might have to do with the Supra's radio getting stolen back in the day. Things never fit quite right in general after that.

I have a couple of questions for you:

First, I know the Supra brackets screw right in, but did you modify them at all? Like I said above I could never get the fit quite right and I was always hitting stuff in back and the angle of the face was all wrong.

Second, did you wire up the radio dimmer to work in the Supra? I didn't have time to try to give it a good shot, but my radio light never dimmed with the interior lights.

Again, really nice job. I'll be buying another Camry radio once summer money starts coming in and doing this. I'll be taking notes from this thread so thank you for posting.
 
#56 ·
Additional info . . . .

Wow, I did exactly the same thing when my Camry was out of commission (I have an '01). I fabbed up an ebay wiring harness and everything, though I could have done a little cleaner of a job. Nice to see someone of a like mind.

REALLY nice work man, (Thank you.) I could never get the angle quite right, but that might have to do with the Supra's radio getting stolen back in the day. Things never fit quite right in general after that.

I have a couple of questions for you:

First, I know the Supra brackets screw right in, but did you modify them at all? Like I said above I could never get the fit quite right and I was always hitting stuff in back and the angle of the face was all wrong.
As I stated in the first post, it's a snug fit. Patience is a must. The large cable going from the amp to the back of the stereo, and the antenna wire usually need to be snaked out of the way of the back of the unit as much as possible. Fish in through the space with a long screwdriver to manipulate it etc. You can tell what is in the way by whether or not your 'bottoming out' on something like metal-to-metal, or soft like a cable.
No, I did not modify the brackets. You will find that when it is about as close as it's gonna get, the left bracket ears are very close to landing in place, yet the right side is still maybe 1/4 inch from landing. I left it there, and used that little bit of 'float' to seat it in just the right position for the surround opening, then snugged the screws up till they were slightly bending the right bracket ears backwards a little. The left ears were normal. The unit is seated tight, with good ground.
Make sure you've read the whole thread carefully. Remember, the the surround doesn't rest against the face of the stereo like original, the opening has tiny 'lips' on each side, that need to be carefully shaved flat to allow the new stereo to come THRU the opening a tiny bit.

Second, did you wire up the radio dimmer to work in the Supra? I didn't have time to try to give it a good shot, but my radio light never dimmed with the interior lights.
I'm actually still looking into this (when time permits) for confirmation. I noticed the lights did NOT dim with the other dash lights, BUUUUUUT, to doublecheck whether they were supposed to, I unplugged it and plugged the original 85 stereo back in, and they didn't dim either. (factory wiring and plugs intact) IIRC, neither did my 89, BUUUUT, my 95 4runner does. So, I haven't 100% confirmed whether they're supposed to, but so far it doesn't look that way judging by my 85 stereo.
Again, really nice job. I'll be buying another Camry radio once summer money starts coming in and doing this. I'll be taking notes from this thread so thank you for posting.
Thanks again, and if you need any help/info or have any questions, LMK. I hope this info helped.
 
#57 ·
Good news for those using a new head unit, (sorta)bad for those with OEM head units.

I'd like to preface this by saying I've got an '82 wiring diagram. I only know how my wiring works and I don't know if/how the wiring was changed for other years. Also, I will defer to those more experienced in electronics to correct me if anything I'm saying is wrong. I'm just getting my ideas down here.

Alright, I checked out my wiring diagram and I found the rheostat and radio illumination.

On the original radio, as far as I can tell, the radio illumination uses the same ground that the stereo does. So, as long as the radio is getting power, so is the illumination. The stereo is directly connected to ground instead of through the rheostat like all of the other illumination that dims. That's the bad news for OEMers.

Based on the labeling on the wiring harness I have the newer head unit has it's own input and ground for the dimmer. Not 100% on this, but let's move on with the idea assuming this is true.

Now, all the things that dim appear to share a common ground through the rheostat. Thankfully there's two things near the stereo that are grounded this way: the cigarette illumination and the ashtray illumination. So there's the potential to ground the dimmer through the same ground that these are and potentially have dimming.

With how my harness is set up, I am getting illumination, but not dimming. I have an extra "Dimmer Ground" wire on the harness for the newer stereo that's not connected to anything. I also have a "Dimmer" wire that's connected to the Supra harness, but as far as I can tell on the wiring diagram for the old stereo, that pin isn't used.

What I also don't know is how the dimming in the newer head unit works. Does the dimmer just need to be grounded the way I said above? Or does the "Dimmer" wire also need to be connected to positive? And if so what voltage? I'll have to get out my volt meter and check the voltage in my Camry between these two pins the next time I can pull my radio to see how the dimming works and check if that pin is live in the Supra.

What I'm also curious about is the following. From what I can see the following illumination is all connected to Junction Box 2 through the same wires: defogger switch, overdrive switch, cigarette lighter, and ash tray. Let's pretend we know how the dimmer for the new head unit works and we're looking to ground it with the same ground of either the cigarette lighter illumination of the ashtray lamp (since they're the closest). Are either of these grounds safe to use? Or will there be too many amps running through these wires?

I know there's some unanswered questions, but the cool thing is that based on what I'm seeing I'm pretty certain there's a way to get the head unit to dim with the rest of the dash illumination.
 
#58 ·
Wow!

Very nice post/job Chris. Exactly the kind of contribution that furthers the cause, and this place was made for!
(If I may, the only thing I would edit to make it an easier read is the word 'new', when referring to the head unit. Maybe use 'aftermarket' to be just a little clearer about the difference so when reading a very detailed informative post like that, the brain doesn't pause and think 'does he mean 'new, AFTMKT' or 'newER OEM'? Understanding electrical can cramp the brain enough. :) )

Now, I'm going to have to re-read that another 47 times, but the first question that came to mind was: Why didn't my 85 dim when I plugged it back in (with factory wiring/plugs), and was is supposed to?

As soon as my eyes are un-crossed, and the charliehorse in my skull subsides, I'm gonna put some time into this dimmer variable-voltage ground lift-isolation-justwantmyradiolightstodim! . . . . .Thang.

I guess it never really bothered me enough to see if there was a solution, I thought maybe it was internal to the stereo and couldn't be changed, but if not, I just needed a challenging kick in the ass like this and I'm psyched there may be a solution.

Right/wrong, whether this works out or not, HUGE thanks for the effort, the direction, and the post. Wicked friggin awesome job brotha. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

:salute::salute::salute::salute:
 
#59 ·
Very nice post/job Chris. Exactly the kind of contribution that furthers the cause, and this place was made for!
(If I may, the only thing I would edit to make it an easier read is the word 'new', when referring to the head unit. Maybe use 'aftermarket' to be just a little clearer about the difference so when reading a very detailed informative post like that, the brain doesn't pause and think 'does he mean 'new, AFTMKT' or 'newER OEM'? Understanding electrical can cramp the brain enough. :) )

Now, I'm going to have to re-read that another 47 times, but the first question that came to mind was: Why didn't my 85 dim when I plugged it back in (with factory wiring/plugs), and was is supposed to?

As soon as my eyes are un-crossed, and the charliehorse in my skull subsides, I'm gonna put some time into this dimmer variable-voltage ground lift-isolation-justwantmyradiolightstodim! . . . . .Thang.

I guess it never really bothered me enough to see if there was a solution, I thought maybe it was internal to the stereo and couldn't be changed, but if not, I just needed a challenging kick in the ass like this and I'm psyched there may be a solution.

Right/wrong, whether this works out or not, HUGE thanks for the effort, the direction, and the post. Wicked friggin awesome job brotha. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

:salute::salute::salute::salute:
:) Thanks man! Yeah sorry I tend to post like a textbook sometimes. I'll edit my post later tonight to try to make it more clear (I'm even having trouble reading some of it). I'll call it Camry head unit and Supra head unit (even though I know the Camry head unit didn't only come in the Camry, but then again the Supra head unit didn't only some in the Supra either).

The short answer for your OEM radio not dimming is that the stereo ground is directly connected (not through the dimmer switch). Furthermore, the illumination isn't on its own circuit, the same voltage powering the stereo is powering the illumination. So, the illumination isn't connected through the dimmer either.

Let's say you took the ground for the stereo and connected it through the ashtray light like I was saying above. If you dimmed the panel lights with the rheostat, you'd be killing the voltage for the whole stereo instead of just for the stereo illumination.

What's going to help with all this is that I've got the '01 Camry to test how the dimming on the Camry head unit works. Another thing to take into consideration is the resistance range of the rheostat in the Camry. The Supra's rheostat goes from 0 ohms to 10 ohms. Hopefully the Camry's is the same to make things easier.

Hopefully I'll have time to check all of this soon!
 
#60 ·
Cool. The only thing I would differ with in what you just stated, is that the illumination does not get it's power from the same 12v source as the stereo, they may share the same ground though. The 12v stereo power is fed from the grey wire, the illumination is from the green w/ brown band, which SEEMS to be the same feed as the ash tray light etc, so the grounding would be the issue wouldn't it? (I'll take the time this weekend to remove coverings and verify they are tapped together.)

I too will try to put some time into this so we all have a possible solution.

:salute::salute::salute::salute:
 
#62 · (Edited)
Ah yes you're right, I'm dumb, I just rechecked my diagrams. For the Supra radio, the radio and illumination do get power from different sources. The radio from pin 3 and the illumination from pin 9, but they're both grounded through pin 7 (this is all for the larger connector of the two). Still have to check on the Camry stuff. I'll probably take a look tomorrow as well. This is fun!

Edit:

Verified that the voltage between the Dimmer and Dimmer Ground pins in the Camry goes from ~12V to 0V depending on the position of the dimmer knob in the Camry. Even though I was pretty sure it would be 12V I wanted to verify.

However, I took out the dimmer knob assembly from the Camry and noticed it had three pins. Tried to measure the resistance between all combinations of the three pins and was getting odd results. Opened up the housing and saw a small circuit board with an IC hooked up to what I think is was a small rheostat since there were only two pins soldered to a small circuit board. Measured the resistance between those pins (even though I know the rest of the circuit being in parallel with the voltmeter would change the read resistance) and got a resistances in the kilo-ohm range.

I imagine the Camry's switch has some other functionality. Maybe it contains the dimming that happens all across the board when the lights are turned on as well as further dimming depending on the knob?

Either way the easiest way to test it out is probably just to try the Supra's rheostat and see if it works.
 
#61 · (Edited)
New harness

I figured that since I have it apart again to look into the dimmer situation, I'd get a pic of the harness I fabricated to convert the stock 9-5 plugs to the 10-6 plugs needed, using the 2 adapters mentioned in the starting post. I'll edit it in there too.





:salute::salute::salute::salute:
 
#63 · (Edited)
Got It!!!!

(Chris, I think the 'fun' was maybe other intersted parties thinkin: 'will you two hurry up and sort this out so I can get on with my install plans?!!!)

Allright, GOT IT! After a few brain cramps, and a couple Tim Taylor 'HUH?'s I finally figured it out.

To start with, our cars were NOT wired for stereo illumintaion dimming. The fact that the stock unit wouldn't dim, combined with the fact it has a little button on the face of it that reads 'light', for you to turn the lights on or off, kinda clued me in. Duh.

There IS a way to make these newer OEM units, and probably any aftermarket unit, have dimmable illumination. Please see pics below for reference.

(Forget about a technical explanation as far as 'why' it works, cuz you have to let go of thinking of normal 'grounds' in this situation, and I don't know the technical terms for the way a dimmer works, kinda varying/lifting the ground depending on the position of the pot, yadda yadda yadda)

It took me a bit to figure this out, because the aftermarket harness adapters I got weren't wired for this, although I now know some ARE, because the one that Dave brought with him for his installation WAS, (he bought it used at a stereo supply place). At the time I didn't know what the 'extra' wire was for. Now we do ;)

This all concerns JUST THE 6-PLUG. You just need to tap 1 wire, not normally involved in the MKII stereo wiring, into the dimmer source. The source for it is going to be the dimmer wire on the back of the cig. lighter. That plug has 4 wires, 2 are power and ground for the lighter, and 2 for illumination and dimmer, for it and the ashtray light. It's easy to look at them and trace which go where. The WHITE wire in the photo of the back of the cig. lighter is the dimmer wire to be tapped into. The green wire next to it is the illumination wire, but it's the same feed as the one already on the 9-plug, so just keep using the 9-plug to feed the orange illumination wire on the harness adapter.

Now, if your harness adapters 6-plug only came with the 4 speaker wires like mine did, you'll just need to figure out a way to create/invent/fabricate a flat female socket-pin for the new wire, or steal one off something that isn't being used, the best solution is the SINGLE unused BLUE wire thats left on the 10-plug after you snip the blue loop so the antenna only comes up with AM/FM. Stick something small in there to release the female socket-pin, and add a length of wire to it, and install it in position on the 6-plug. Then just tap it into the dimmer wire, A 'quick-disconnect' method would be advised, so that your entire harness can always be 'plug-n-play'.

If your harness has one already, (it's probably orange) your golden. SEE PHOTO BELOW FOR THE POSITION THIS WIRE NEEDS TO BE, IN THE 6-PLUG. My test wire in the photo is purple.

With this addition, your stereo illumination will dim with the rest of your dimmable interior lighting.

TIP: (and personal opinion/preference) Stay away from 'Scotch-clips', or snapable clamping style wire connectors. They're connections are never reliable long-term, and they're too destructive to the wiring if you don't use the exact gauge etc. The extra time and effort for quality connections will pay off in the long run, and you'll sleep better at night. ;) )

So here's the wiring to make the unit illumination dim:





I think that's probably about all the info this install of these units needs. Any corrections/additional info, please chime in.

:salute::salute::salute::salute:
 
#64 ·
That's really cool Brad, glad to see it worked! Sorry if I got long winded at times with it, but in the end it all paid off!

Now I just need to get another Camry head unit and install it in my Supra.

*high five!* Nice job! Glad this is solved!

Just some extra info for anyone wondering:

To explain the reason why it works you don't have to think of ground moving up or anything. The dimmer knob is a variable resistor and the more you turn it, the higher the resistance gets. The higher resistance, the less current flows to ground. The less current, the less bright the light bulbs get. Eventually there's no current flowing so there's no light.
 
#65 ·
2001 Camry radio

Ebay has one, but I haven't asked how deep it is or if it has an external amp plug.I'm on my 4th stock radio and I'm tired of having it shut down and come back every 10 minutes. The last one worked for a while,then freaked out.I have an '84 and I'm willing to install it if you think I can make it work.Plug and play is better,but I'll try. http://offer.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll Dave in Seattle. I'm in the market to replace the one I have(stock).NON-BLING.
 
#66 · (Edited)
Bad Link

Your eBay link doesn't work. If I could see the unit your interested in, I could tell you if it'll fit. Looking at the link you posted, you may have already submitted an offer? You should know the units potential before offering, if your offer is accepted it's the same as a winning bid, you own it. If you haven't, nevermind ;-)
Make sure you don't have other wiring issues, you seem to be going through too many radios.

As far as depth, amps, etc, all the info you need for installing these types of stereos seen in this thread, is right here in the thread. Take the time to read it all before committing to a purchase.

This weekend I should be completing my 'trials' with the few different types of double DIN units available, both 1 and 2 piece, to just confirm and finalize the fitment info in this thread. After confirmation I will have a few setups for sale, fully tested and ready to go, if anyone's interested. . . . . .
 
#70 · (Edited)
Well....http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=280358519785 The model # is there. I asked the seller about this unit. No response,yet. I gave him(her) a link to the post you made. Dave in Seattle.
Dave, I looked at the eBay unit. That one will definitely work for you regarding this install. The good news is, it's an 0C020, which means the faceplate number is 16814, it's got green illumination, AND is INTERNALLY amplified, with the 10-6 plugs right on the back. Assuming everything the seller states is true, (and nobody else in the universe pounces on it after you called attention to it :)) that one will have you good to go.
Well, it looks like you did a regular bid, not a 'best offer', so cancel what I said before, but I don't think the seller will know what to do, or care much about this thread. People usually won't do that kind of reading/research to help sell a low ticket item.

Don't forget: read read read, the entire thread :)

OK, I give, my brain isn't awake yet, what's your 'R.T.R' stand for?

HTH
 
#71 ·
'01 Camry radio.

I'm JAZZED,Brad! All I need to do is win the thing.Then,the fun starts. How far should I go on price? You got yours for $40,total? I want this radio,but I ain't telling him that.Maybe one of the Celica Supra guys and I will get into a bidding war. I don't want that to happen,but it may be too late.I posted it!:duh: R.T.R. is ready to run.(R/C talk). Dave in Seattle.
 
#72 ·
Info

Dave, as with anything else on eBay, first give it serious thought, figure out the MAXIMUM your comfortable spending for that item, consider shipping costs, and THAT'S what it's 'worth'. If you do that, and someone outbids you, oh well, you didn't 'lose' anything, they were just comfortable spending more for it, sometimes foolishly. (Assuming your not one of those pieholes that won't stop till he gets one for $5, then whines when it isn't perfect. :32: Suck it up, piss-off, and be willing to pay a reasonable price for something nice . . . ;))

The key is RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH. When you've got a handle on how much they average, and you can be patient enough for the oddball auction that starts at $0.99 and ends at 3 A.M. on a Monday, not primetime on a weekend, then your odds of scoring one at a lowball price are much higher. If you want/need one ASAP, your gonna pay the average going price, if not even have to settle for a slightly higher 'Buy It Now' price from one of the radio dealers or used parts guys. They always seem to want more than they average for.

Also, don't forget, know what your buying. You don't want to end up with a great unit at a cheapskate price, get it home and find out you NOW need the amp to go with it. Unless you're willing to wait a month or more for an auction of just an amp (at less than the $45-$50 avg the eBay 'parts guys' want for them), or scrounge the boneyards for the right one. <------------End eBay lesson/rant ;)


ddd228 said:
I want this radio,but I ain't telling him that.
You ALREADY DID bro! By sending him/her to this thread. That just said: 'Hey, here's why I want your item so bad . . . ' No matter what you ACTUALLY said. ;)
No biggie though, it's a regular style auction, not a 'best offer', so they don't have any leverage because of that.

P.S. The seller of the one you're looking at typed in the model number wrong, so if people are doing a search for it by 'model number' it likely won't show up in their results, increasing your chances. Good luck, any questions LMK. Happy hunting.

HTH
 
#73 ·
'01 Camry radio-gone.

Well,I feel really stupid,now. I MISSED THE AUCTION by 20 seconds.That was the radio I wanted. I'll try again. I still want one like yours.:32: Dave in Seattle.
 
#74 · (Edited)
Ya win some . . . .

Well,I feel really stupid,now. I MISSED THE AUCTION by 20 seconds.That was the radio I wanted. I'll try again. I still want one like yours.:32: Dave in Seattle.
I was watching it, to see how you did. Happen to be workin on some stuff here and was wondering if you were just a REAL cheap bastard or just screwed up. :duh: :mm_twak: :bitchslap ;););););)

Don't feel bad, I recieved my SECOND DEFECTIVE 16814 friday. Gonna stick with the 16815 ext/amp for now. I should have a couple different setups for sale pretty quick. Thinking of doing them as complete 'kits', all the prep-work, wiring and testing done, no risk, just plug it in. (or wire it up if you don't have original factory plugs.) Anyone interested can P.M. me.

Seriously, there's plenty more out there, and better ways to bid. Although I HAVE noticed you can't really steal them since I posted this thread. Unfortunate side-effect. ;)

If you would like any assistance in finding one, or more info on them, feel free to P.M. me, I'd rather not clog up the thread with chatter.

All is not lost. . . . . .

:salute::salute::salute::salute:
 
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