Toyota Celica Supra Forum banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Are we 100% sure the oil pan can be removed by jacking up the engine and tranny? 82 with manual trans. I have mounts disconnected on both and I think I have them jacked up as high as I can. Manual tranny seems to be hitting the top of the tunnel and is starting to lift the vehicle off the jackstands. I do not have enough room to dip the pan down. Do I need to lower the sway bar out of the way to pull it out straight? Oil pick up and what i assume is the seem to go very deep down in the pan....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,307 Posts
I did my '84 oil pan TWICE, but it has an auto tranny, without removing the engine. I did pull the radiator shroud out of the way. You need to bump the engine around to the SWEET SPOT to clear the crankshaft journals. HELP, HERE.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,307 Posts
DO NOT use that damn cork gasket! It will leak....again. Use FIPG GREY Permatex-that is the good stuff.
Clean the block and the pan 3 times with ..ACETONE. Wear gloves. Get into the bolt holes as well. Shoot the hell out of the block, but roll out of the way. They both must be clean of oil for the FIPG to work .Lightly beat back the oil pan bolt holes away from the bock surface .,B -4 hand. You will be golden, when you finally get that bastard off and on the bench. Shoot the block, again.. Another beer is in order.
14809
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you for your words of encouragement! I got the bastard off! Will work on cleaning block and pan this week. I'll probably wire wheel the pan and repaint it after removing surface rust. Should give the block plenty of time to drip most of the oil off. Kind of worry about getting it back on without smearing rtv all over the pickup, but I'll find a way!

That pickup seems to go pretty deep, without the gasket, do I have to worry about clearance issues? Saw a post on here from awhile back where some dude recommended building up like a quarter inch of semi-cured RTV. I've been working on cars professionally for a decade and never heard of that lol.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,307 Posts
Just read the FIPG instructions.........SPECIAL!
Let it sit in the pan for a specific time B-4 installing the "prepped" oil pan. Do NOT torque the pan bolts all of the way to spec. WAIT. Screw the pan bolts in part way(Finger tight) and have a beer. The RTV should set up in a beers worth.......After it is semi-tacky, then go to your final torque.
Lightly beat back the pan bolt holes away from the block surface. A ball penis hammer works well with a short 2 X 4 for the whacking part. The oil pan bolt holes are bent in the wrong way! Use flat washers to spread out the pressure on the bolt holes.
I have used Corvair valve cover "washers" B-4 on my Ford oil pan and valve covers to spread the load. Works fine.
I didn't have any for my 5 M oil pan nightmare.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
626 Posts
Somewhat of an old thread, but a little help on where on the trans do I place the jack to raise the engine. To me at point A seems a bit weak on the bell housing, but maybe not? . So I would think a little further back on the body of the trans. I did try already at A and it started to lift, but I stopped as I think the bell housing will break at that point. I did try point C but the car raises and not so much the trans/engine.

yes, I have the rad fan disconnected, and as you can see the trans brackets off and plate, and of course have the two bolts removed on each engine mount.

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Hood Vehicle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
626 Posts
Silly me, I'll answer my own question... I used a 2 x 4 that was long enough to run from A to C in photo and that worked. I hope I'll be able to line up the engine mount and frame holes when I'm all done though, as while I was lifting it seemed the engine was moving up and at an angle.... anyway cross that bridge later. I also had to turn the crank to get the rear journals in the right position and then the pan was able to clear the sway bar and drop down.

Rick
 
  • Like
Reactions: Zoe

·
Registered
Joined
·
626 Posts
Pics? Sooner or later I'm gonna have to fix my leaking pan so I'm happy for all hints and advice!
Here is how I lifted the trans/engine:
Automotive tire Musical instrument Bumper Motor vehicle Automotive exterior


The engine did not lift up equally on both sides. I'm thinking the exhaust was keeping the pass side down more than the driver side. I was able to put a small 2 x 4 block on the driver side mount, but couldn't get it high enough on the pass side, so I used a small 2 lb dumbell weight. Then I let the weight off the jack and let the engine rest of the block and bumbell weight. It was with these in place that I had enough clearance to pull it down past the sway bar. ( but had to rotate the crank until the rear journals were in the right place, so they would not hit the pan.
Eye Wood Automotive wheel system Snout Automotive tire
Automotive tire Bumper Asphalt Road surface Wood


This morning I took the dirty, oily pan to the local machine shop and had it clean tanked to remove all the oil and dirt. I got it back an our later, took it home and started wire brushing and prep to coat it with Rust Neutralizer (Loctite brand).

Here is the pan after clean tanked and before wire brushing. This is a 86 pan with ~ 165K miles. Definitely time to paint this and save it from getting worse.
Wood Motor vehicle Gas Auto part Automotive exterior


Here is the mating lip and inside. A little rust on the mating surface is no big deal. I decided to treat the little surface rust spots on the inside wall with the Rust Neutralizer as well. I won't paint the inside though, just leave it with only the neutralizer. Its not really bad, just residual moisture in the oil over 35 years.
Wood Automotive tire Bumper Gas Automotive exterior


After wiring brushing (you want some of the rust to remain for the neutralizer to do it's job, so don't remove all the rust, just any scales or rough parts), I brushed on two light coats of the Rust Neutralizer. I did the entire outside, the area that had surface rust on the inside, and also on the lip mating surface. Here is the pan drying for 24hrs in my "drying room".. Yes... I live alone. 😄 Its a little cold outside, so in my bathroom, I can run the heater on it, and close the door so it gets nice and toasty and leave the bathroom fan running for ventilation of the fumes. The plan for tomorrow is clean the block mating surface and paint the pan with two coats of POR 15 Rust Preventative Permanent Coating. It will need another 24hs for the POR 15 to dry, then I can install. I've add more photos later as the steps evolve.

Shoe Property Comfort Purple Wood
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
Wow, thanks a lot man for the write-up effort and the pics! I like the part with your drying station a lot :cool: (I share a house with a friend and can't imagine enough the nuclear explosion if I'd tell her I put some auto part in one of our shared rooms....)
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
8,863 Posts
If it was me I would have spent the hundred bucks and just had someone powder coat it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
626 Posts
If it was me I would have spent the hundred bucks and just had someone powder coat it.
That was the idea I had at first as well, however, the bay area and central coast high costs and prices on everything was a factor. After shopping around locally I got two quotes to have it powered coated both at $150.00 I figured I could do it better and cheaper. I could have cleaned it up at home and saved the $45 to hot tank it, but I was just easy to hand it to guy and get it back clean. I bought all new oem hardware for the pan and a tube of FIPG. It was even cheaper for me to buy all new mounting hardware and the FIPG from Mark in Vancouver and have it shipped to me than buy it locally. So I'm in for ~ $115. The POR permanent coating is very durable and I think even better than powder coating.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
626 Posts
Friday night painting of the pan. I'm also painting the two transmission support brackets. Did two light coats two hours apart. I might have to give a third coat on the flat area near the rear of the pan that had a little more rust than the rest. The POR 15 will fade and turn grayish if it is exposed to UV light, but since this is under the car, no other top coat is required, otherwise POR makes a top coat for those purposes where parts are in direct sunlight. There are other bands of this kind of stuff...Chassis Black by Eastman is another. I've used this POR on the front undercarriage on areas that showed signs of surface rust like the sway bar, frame rails, etc. It works very well, and didn't require too much prep, just remove large dirt, grime and brush on.
Bag Musical instrument accessory Gas Luggage and bags Wood
Hand Finger Drink Thumb Gas

Hood Automotive lighting Fluid Automotive tire Liquid
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
I once used POR-15 on one of my daily drivers. Somehow I managed to get some of it into my hair... not recommended as it will stay there until cut off :rolleyes: And the surface needs to be 100% free of grease, otherwise it simply peels off.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top