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Discussion Starter #1
Are we 100% sure the oil pan can be removed by jacking up the engine and tranny? 82 with manual trans. I have mounts disconnected on both and I think I have them jacked up as high as I can. Manual tranny seems to be hitting the top of the tunnel and is starting to lift the vehicle off the jackstands. I do not have enough room to dip the pan down. Do I need to lower the sway bar out of the way to pull it out straight? Oil pick up and what i assume is the seem to go very deep down in the pan....
 

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I did my '84 oil pan TWICE, but it has an auto tranny, without removing the engine. I did pull the radiator shroud out of the way. You need to bump the engine around to the SWEET SPOT to clear the crankshaft journals. HELP, HERE.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well I just got done torching the 40 year old cork gasket off. I didn't like that haha. Going to finish a beer and report back! I will attempt more wiggling!
 

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DO NOT use that damn cork gasket! It will leak....again. Use FIPG GREY Permatex-that is the good stuff.
Clean the block and the pan 3 times with ..ACETONE. Wear gloves. Get into the bolt holes as well. Shoot the hell out of the block, but roll out of the way. They both must be clean of oil for the FIPG to work .Lightly beat back the oil pan bolt holes away from the bock surface .,B -4 hand. You will be golden, when you finally get that bastard off and on the bench. Shoot the block, again.. Another beer is in order.
14809
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for your words of encouragement! I got the bastard off! Will work on cleaning block and pan this week. I'll probably wire wheel the pan and repaint it after removing surface rust. Should give the block plenty of time to drip most of the oil off. Kind of worry about getting it back on without smearing rtv all over the pickup, but I'll find a way!

That pickup seems to go pretty deep, without the gasket, do I have to worry about clearance issues? Saw a post on here from awhile back where some dude recommended building up like a quarter inch of semi-cured RTV. I've been working on cars professionally for a decade and never heard of that lol.
 

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Just read the FIPG instructions.........SPECIAL!
Let it sit in the pan for a specific time B-4 installing the "prepped" oil pan. Do NOT torque the pan bolts all of the way to spec. WAIT. Screw the pan bolts in part way(Finger tight) and have a beer. The RTV should set up in a beers worth.......After it is semi-tacky, then go to your final torque.
Lightly beat back the pan bolt holes away from the block surface. A ball penis hammer works well with a short 2 X 4 for the whacking part. The oil pan bolt holes are bent in the wrong way! Use flat washers to spread out the pressure on the bolt holes.
I have used Corvair valve cover "washers" B-4 on my Ford oil pan and valve covers to spread the load. Works fine.
I didn't have any for my 5 M oil pan nightmare.
 
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