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Discussion Starter #1
So after running the car a couple days now I find I have one, possibly 2 small oil leaks that seem to be coming from the pan.

It looks like I may need to remove the oil pan and reseal it.

What is involved with removing the oil pan while the engine is still in the vehicle?

I have access to a lift. Is it just a matter of taking the steering rack and cross member off?
 

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I took my pan off by just undoing my motor mounts and jacking the engine up. It gave plenty of clearance to slide the pan between the engine and x-member. I didn't have the lower tranny plate (goes between tranny and block to cover exposed flywheel), so I dont know if you have to split the tranny/block to get that out...cause i think it's in the way of the reae pan bolts.

Christian
 

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what i did was took off the motor moutns and jacked up the trans bell housing. Then I also used the lift for safty reasons. However its kind of hard to take it out, you have to wiggle it out some how :wink:

HTH, Laterz zankone
 

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Gasket material?

What are you using to seal the oil pan? cork gasket or RTV?

WHat is the best sealant to use??

I saw a post that said to use a non-fraying sealant..whatever that is?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My last rebuild I used a cork gasket. That didnt last more than 1000 miles before it started breaking up.

This time I used copper RTV. It is only leaking in one spot. It is under the AC bracket where there is a hole in the block where the oil pan sits. Why they put a hole there I no clue. I just tried cleaning all the oil off and mashing more RTV around the hole. If that doesnt help the pan is gona come off.
 

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Use FIPG (form in place gasket). I used some gray stuff. Normal RTV is not the right stuff, IMHO. Toyota went to FIPG in place of the gaskets.
 

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From my experiences the easiest thing to do is just drop the crossmember. Doing it this way is faster and it makes it easier to put the pan on with wet sealent and makes it much easier to access all the bolts. But thats just my 2 cents.
 

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CRF_Rider said:
Well I tried to get the oil pan out by just jacking up the engine. No way is it going to clear the oil pickup. I am going to have to drop the crossmember and the rack it looks like. What a pain in the butt.
It looks like it cant be done but it can, it just takes a little of playing around to take it out.

MAD_83supra - dont use that cork gasket they suck :wink: . use that FIPG they work so so so so good :p
 

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did you jack the engine up far enough? I jacked mine to the point it was lifting the car. I had no problems.

Christian
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I ended up jacking up the car and putting 2X4's on the engine mounts to hold the engine up. Then I got the jack out of the way and looked inside. I was able to remove the oil pump and then had to rotate the crank so that the crank bosses on the #6 main bearing were up out of the way (as well as the #6 connecting rod).

It slid right out. I just sealed it and i am in the process of getting it back together. I did not have to take the oil pump out.

Thanx for the help.
 

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Alright well Im removing the oil pan so I can tap it for my turbo return line. Now Ive been trying for the last hour to get the motor up high enough to cleaer everything from underneath but I can't. When you guys say it clears, do you mean the dished part of thepan slides out towards the rear or what? Cause even if I do get it hihg enough it looks like the sway bar has to come off so I can pull it out....is this the case? I mean I dont have a hoist, just a couple jacks, where do you guys jack the motor up from? Id really like to get this pan out real soon so any help from and of you guys would be great. Id like to now have to drop the member/rack if possible, I just dont know where you guys are jacking the motor up from. I also tried from the bell housing but the block is so long the weight balace just brings up the bell housing first till it hits the floor board then the motor comes up and it doesnt come up very high. And yes, FYI =), I have removed the MM bolts and all oil pan bolts and everything....I just need a few suggestions. Should I try and rotate the crank like CRF did or what? If I wanna do it which cylinder will I have to put at TDC? Thanks!

Austin :twisted:
 

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I jacked mine up on the end of the bellhousing near the engine. If your tranny mount is good, it should raise the engine the same as if you jacked up the engine. I didn't have to rotate the crank, but then again I could've gotten lucky and it happened to be in the right spot. The only part of the pan I can think of that will come into contact with a counterweight during removal would be the rear edge. So turn the crank so that the rear cylinder counterweights are above the block line.

Christian
 

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Well thats not working. My tranny is fully attached and the engine comes upo just not high enough to pull the pan out. Any other suggestions? How long for me to drop the rack and cross member?
 

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Get a large wooden block and jack engine up from the front pulley. You can then just fit 2x4 blocks between the engine mounts and the engine to hold it up. You should have plenty of clearance. Make sure to remove the radiatior fan shroud first. This worked for me, plenty of room.
 

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Well thats the only spot I did not try as Ive never seen the pulley bolt. Does it thread into cran ka long ways? I mean Im really scared of it stripping or breaking or something? You think it would be fine... I mean I know you suggested it but is it really strong enough to hold the block?

Austin
 

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Put it right under the harmonic balancer/pulley. Not on the bolt. I used a 2x6, you can cut notch into the wood to mate up with the pulley if you like.

It really should not be all that hard to do. You will need to support the engine after you jack it up, since the pan needs to come out the front. The 2x4 blocks you stick between the engine mounts and the block do that, providing you removed the 4 14mm head fasteners when you unbolted the engine from the mounts.

You did undo the motor mounts, right??? :wink:
 
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