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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
okay so I got the oil pan leak stopped a few days ago and drive the car home. Keep in mind this is the first time I've driven the car in quite a long time. Well it ran like poop. It wouldn't hold any kind of vacuum and Idk what was going on. So anyways I tried changing some things to locate the vac leak. It is currently a 5mgte car so I moved the afm further downstream on the intake tract to see if it would stop the leak. I was kinda hoping it would be intercooler piping or something. that didn't help.
So I eliminated the rrfpr from the line, thinking maybe I installed that wrong. This also didn't help.

So finally I started pulling spark plug wires. I pulled number one and the car died. Good. i pulled number two same result. But when I pulled number three it continued to idle fine. Crap. Turns out both 3 and six don't affect idle in any noticeable way.

This led me to believe bad compression so a compression test later...

160 160 170 170 160 170

Nothing seems out of order. It is a low comp motor so looks good.

Now I dont know whats causing the problem. What would knock out a couple cylinders? And if perhaps they weren't sparking for some reason would that kill my vac? Any suggestions on how I should move forward?
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I suppose that's possible. Any way to test for that? Also it ran all kinds of rich. If the injectors were stuck would it still run rich?
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
oh my bad didn't read all the way through hehe Too fast a response not enough thinking. Uhm I'll look. I just had the injectors flow tested and cleaned and they all looked good but i'll try to double check jic. Should i just look to see if the clips are on all the way?
 

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Pull the plugs on 3 and 6, see it they are wet. If wet, possibly stuck open and plugs may be fouled out.
 

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Just a note re: vac leaks.

One good way I have found of finding vac leaks is with contact cleaner. I spray it on the joints/gaskets and if there is a leak the revs rise immediately.

It is flammable so be careful. On my 5MGTE, the 'cold side' of my FFIM system is only warm to the touch and easily handled even after a hard run so little chance of ignition. In comparison, WD40 didn't work at all to find leaks.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the help!! I checked the number six wire and the connector was broke and it was pulled clean out. Plugged it back in and that helped loads! It will rev again and not stutter to 3 haha. However the problem isn't completely solved. The vac gauge still reads around atmosperic but the other problems don't seem to indicate vac leak. I mean usually it runs lean with a vac leak but mine is running extremely rich at idle. Haven't done much driving so idle is all I really know about.

The RRFPR is completely disconnected so it wouldn't have anything to do with the problem and my cold start injector is disconnected so what may cause it to run so rich?

The number three plug looked fine but it may be spark related or perhaps that injector is stuck but I don't wee why that would cause the vac to be around atmosperic. Ideas?

Oh and thanks for the great help so far!
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hmm well I'm starting to think perhaps my vac gauge is just leaking causing it to show no vacuum. i can't imagine the car would hardly run with so little vac. I'm gonna pull the gauge out later and find out.

Any ideas on it being rich at idle though?
 

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Matt, you said you had the injectors cleaned and such, which ones are you using?
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It seems I have most of my problems fixed. The gauge was leaking but I got that figured out so now it reads vacuum.

It still runs really rich at idle however. It starts off ideal at 14.7 but will slowly plunge itself more and more rich as it sits. It seems like it is ideal until my wideband kicks in unless that's just a coincidence. I hooked up the narrowband simulation to the O2 sensor pin on the ecu. Is that wrong? should I hook up the stock o2 again?

Any other thoughts or opinions are greatly appreciated!
 
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