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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Not really in order....

Heater core- An all-day-deal.

Fuel filter,designed and engineered by Satan Lloyd Wright!

Fuel pump-remove gas tank.BLAH!(I cheated):naughty:

Turn signal flasher-remove cluster and try to get the speedo cable back in.

Starter-get a fishing-pole -length ratchet extension.

"Tennessee gasket."-remove front of engine.

Heater motor-Japanese puzzle.
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Difficult to diagnose:

HEAT-full ON or OFF-check 8 components.

Cruise control-Did you check the brake fluid?

Ignitor/ECU.(No start/run)

Dishonorable mention: Drivers window/motor/adjustments.
Wiper blades(I cheated)
EGR-You will get bloody.

What did I miss?
 

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The ticking gremlin in the thermostat is another WTF
 

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Just replaced the starter a few weeks ago. I spent 2 hours trying to turn the bolt from the top of the engine and felt likr i injured my wrist afterwards. Then i got mad and bored so i tried to discover new angles to get at the bolt then i figured out the fishing pole length extension from the front of the engine trick and finished the job in probably 30 min. Only if i had knew.

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Discussion Starter #4
Shyzah,do you know what that phonetically pronounced word is in German?

To get the top starter bolt from Hell loose,you need the weirdest tool that I could imagine.
It also makes the job easier to drop the tail shaft or remove the drivers side engine mount.
[url=https://imgur.com/fxe3BmU][/URL]
 

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Yeah it means shit. I used to say shyzah in school instead of shit so the teachers wouldnt get mad and it became a huge thing at our school. Imagine 50 little kids playing basketball all yelling shiza every 2 seconds. Now i just use it for my username for everything.

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Wiper blades are easy. I just adapted mine to take cartridges. Five minutes max to replaces all three.
 

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What the heck is that thing, Dave?"

Indeed Jocelyn, its worse on many modern cars because they are designed to be assembled by robots. Its much cheaper to build a robot that can glue or snap cars together like those plastic model kits for children ages 6 to 10 as compared to building a more complex robot that could turn a bunch of screws, nuts and bolts. But that means that everything a mechanic has to remove later, especially after the plastic is over ten years old, will snap off or crumble and have to be glued, taped, or zip-tied back together. At least the mk2 Supra was largely assembled with reusable threaded fasteners even if some of them are hard to get to. If you think the mk2 is tough to restore, wait till Generation Z is their late 50s and trying to restore a mk5. Holy Shyzah!

But wouldn't it be fun to see what our UTA Robotics lab would come up with if they were challenged to build a robot that could operate Dave's mystery tool. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #9

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Rear control arm stub axles are a real pain to remove to do the rear wheel bearings, especially if you don't remove the control arms.
 

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Thanks for the tips on starter removal. I'm planning on doing mine this summer when I have the upper and lower intakes off the head.

And I'll do the fuel filter then, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I forgot to include the rear wheel bearings!

Also the hose from Hell: The Suicide Hose.
It gets full pressure from the over-clocked water pump and when is blows,it's spectacular!
It 'went' @ 6,000 RPM in first gear.Steam enveloped the entire car and the cars behind me changed lanes.

I used Gates Green Stripe hose and double clamped it. I've done mine TWICE.
https://www.gates.com/us/en/fluid-power/engine-hose/coolant-hose/green-stripe-heater-hose/p/3269-000000-000000
The second time involved jacking up the drivers side engine mount so you could see it without an inspection mirror.Distributor cap OFF.
 

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I'll vote for the fuel filter to be ranked at the top of the list. Couldn't understand why car began missing and running rough for no apparent reason. After replacing the plugs and checking distributer wires, I decided that the fuel filter was the next thing to replace before tackling the removal of the injectors. Well, took me a day just to find it, another evening to remove it, and a third evening to install the new one. I don't believe it had ever been replaced in 187,000 miles! Yeah, I know the book says every 12,000. I tried to blow through it and it was completely plugged.....car is running much better now!

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Starter R&R: Has anyone thought to use a long pair of wheel studs to replace the nut a bolt fiasco? Your choice: press the studs into the bell housing or through the starter mounting holes. Why won't that work? A few smaller cars use 10 mm wheel studs. Geo Metro comes to mind.

14004

Maybe ARP can supply us with a couple.
 

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Just use a 2jz starter the mounting holes are threaded.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
WHAT??? Have I been under a rock? a 2 JZ starter can substitute for a 5 MGE one? Same size bolt?
Our OEM starters are quite robust,but I would like to have a 2 JZ starter as a stash to make it EASY to swap out in case of a starter failure.I won't carry it in my car,but I do and WILL carry a complete igniter/coil assembly and soon....An electric fuel pump.
14007
1582828290527.png
 

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Or just use some helicoils to thread the 5M starter holes.
 

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They're smaller but they fit up from memory. They don't work the other way since it hits the fuel line on the 2jz with an m series starter
 
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